How To Sew a Classic SHIRT COLLAR , Part 1 - HotPatterns Blouse, Continued...
I didn't get as much done on this blouse as I had planned today. But at least it is cut out, and the collar is completed!
Here is the collar, stitched, before turning. The seam allowances are only 1/4". That is because I reduced the pattern's 5/8" allowances to 1/4" before cutting the collar. It saves me time by not having to trim later, and uses less fabric.
This is a close-up of the stitched collar point. You will notice that I do NOT stop and pivot at the corner. I stitch until I am about 1/2" away from the collar point, change my stitch length to 1 (very tiny stitches), then stitch right off the edge. I am a firm believer that if you do not STITCH a point, you will not HAVE a point after the collar is turned and pressed.
Next, the point's seam allowances were trimmed like this:
Then I got to use one of my favorite "tools" to help turn the collar...a Hemostat...or as it's known in my shop, the "Collar Clamp" !
I folded all the seam allowances of the point to one side, and clamped them tightly in the "jaws" of the clamp. One of the jaws is up inside the collar, snugged into the right side of the point. The other jaw holds the seam allowances in place like this:
Since the clamp's jaws "lock" and holds itself together, I just turn the collar right sides out..up and over the jaws of the clamp. After both points of the collar were turned and pressed, I ended up with a nice, neat, sharp collar points...one of which is shown below in close-up.
SEWING NOTES:
Under-Collar Interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing.
Specially designed tools called "Collar Clamps" NOW available at
~Fashion Sewing Supply~
Labels: HotPatterns, INTERFACING, Professional Sewing Supplies, Sewing Tutorials
14 Comments:
Wow Pam, what a neat way to do a collar. No wonder your shirts look so good.
I will be your first customer for the hemostat tool!!! Every single time I sew a collar, I am struggling for that perfect point. Vaguely remember that Nancy Zieman had a method years ago, but I have long since forgotten what it was.
How long before this tool is available?
We have the special HemoStats ordered, just waiting for them to arrive...hopefully within 10 days.
Are you on our mailing list?
Email to Sew_Exciting@yahoo.com with your contact information...and you will be notified of Sales, and New Products!
~Pam
Thanks for that little tutorial! I always struggle with collar points, and vaguely remember a long ago sewing teacher telling me never to sew off the edge. You've given me the freedom to forget that long-ago bad advice!
-Nneka
So nice to see your wondeful posts, Pam! hugs to you :)
What a great trick. That collar sure looks perfect. I'm anxiously awaiting my interfacing from you so I can get going.
Oh man, I've had haemostats in my sewing room for years, and I NEVER thought to use them for this application. It's brilliant, thank you!
I know this is a silly question, but any tips on cutting patterns out? Do you use a rolling blade and weights or do you use pins and scissors? When a collar says to cut two, do you actually unpin the pattern and lay it out again or just lay the pattern and first cut layer on top of fabric and cut again? How do YOU transfer all the markings? In my mind, I'm an average sewer and my shirts come out average. I want this one to look GREAT.
By the way, thanks for the FAST service on my interfacing!
AH - one more. When you use fusible interfacing, do you make the public side of the collar the interfaced piece or the other? I'm assuming the other since you interface the facings of the front of top and they are on the inside.
Joufknister said...
I know this is a silly question, but any tips on cutting patterns out? Do you use a rolling blade and weights or do you use pins and scissors?
No such thing as a silly question here! {smile}
I use scissors to cut, and weights and a few pins (if needed) to hold the pattern to the fabric. There really isn't a right or wrong 'way'...I know other professional shirtmakers who use rotary cutters...I just happen to like scissors.
When a collar says to cut two, do you actually unpin the pattern and lay it out again or just lay the pattern and first cut layer on top of fabric and cut again?
I make sure that my double layer of fabric is straight, place the pattern piece on the fabric,and cut once through 2 layers.
How do YOU transfer all the markings?
I make tiny little snips into the seam allowances
In my mind, I'm an average sewer and my shirts come out average. I want this one to look GREAT.
I am sure that anyone who sees your garments think they look great...we sewists tend to be a little critical of ourselves.
By the way, thanks for the FAST service on my interfacing!
You're welcome...word has really gotten out about the quality of our products, and we have been swamped with orders this month...but we have been doing our best to get them cut and shipped ASAP!
~Pam
Joufknister said...
When you use fusible interfacing, do you make the public side of the collar the interfaced piece or the other?
On the women's shirt I am making right now, I chose to just interface the under-collar. However, often when making a men's shirt, I'll interface both upper and under collars. It depends on how crisp I want the collar to be.
n the page where you are selling these tools it says they are 6 inches long. Just looking at the picture we can estimate that we have approximately two inches of blade and four inches of handle. So the question is: how do you get a three or four inch collar inside a two inch blade and have it all laying flat like that?
Hi...glad you asked!
The photo you refer to was a fairly tight close-up. On some collars the "jaws" of the clamp will look like that. On larger collars or those with longer tips, the undercollar fabric will "bunch" as you insert the clamp into the point. Or, you can choose to fold any excess fabric (to either side). The clamp still works because you can vary the clamp "pressure"...it has 3 settings.
I really appreciate your very clear explanation of "if you don't stitch a point, you won't have a point". Most sewers just don't get that idea as a basic premise because they are taught to sink the needle at a specific marked point and pivot. This is often the prime cause of not only a bad point, but a point that is off center.
By sewing to the edge, you are fixing two common problems- keeping a consistant distance in from the both cut edges which centers the intersection, as well as creating a sharp point. Bravo!
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