tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-106045112024-03-15T21:10:02.585-04:00Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~Sewing Tutorials and Shirt Designs by Pamela Erny.
Featuring tailored ~Off The Cuff~ Menswear Shirts, Clothes for Children, and other Fashion Apparel...plus "How To" Sewing Tutorials, Sewing and Design Tips, Sewing Techniques, and more.Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.comBlogger281125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-6214144864297151172014-10-06T11:18:00.000-04:002014-10-06T11:21:42.091-04:00Mini-TUTORIAL: Gathered or Puffed? It's all about the Seam Allowances!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNYsX1b8KwYs6Vdnm-5lQ-ElKqaQ1DK8Gg3PA7bcGI1oeYRkQqskUiOhXCO7SiEodcrJcEaRzz_-bosVHW0Q7FRaoC-5mwtTzCU1H8BQtqeksgDNYBHRL8b2HcN8Lu5NG-Gw1/s1600/HotPatternsRivieraAnnisetteTop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWNYsX1b8KwYs6Vdnm-5lQ-ElKqaQ1DK8Gg3PA7bcGI1oeYRkQqskUiOhXCO7SiEodcrJcEaRzz_-bosVHW0Q7FRaoC-5mwtTzCU1H8BQtqeksgDNYBHRL8b2HcN8Lu5NG-Gw1/s640/HotPatternsRivieraAnnisetteTop.jpg" height="465" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The<a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/hp-1021-riviera-annisette-dress-top/" target="_blank"> Riviera Annisette Top</a> is one of my favorite styles from HotPatterns, and a perfect style to demonstrate how manipulating the shoulder seam allowances can change the look of a garment with a gathered sleeve. <i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">This is a revised post (with some new information) of one I first published here in 2009...for my newer blog</span> </i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><i>followers or those who may have missed it the first time. This is one of Hotpatterns' earlier styles, and it's on Clearance Sale at <a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/" target="_blank">www.HotPatterns.com </a> ...but I am not sure how long it will be on sale or even still available. I am not affiliated, just a big fan. </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">So...about those seam allowances....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Take a close look at the blue top, above. It has gathered sleeve caps that are subtle. When you make a top, dress or blouse with sleeve cap gathers, you have a choice to make them "puffed" or simply gathered into soft folds. It's all about what <i>direction</i> the sleeve cap seam allowances are pressed. (more detailed close-up photos follow)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LcAJTLNgb9oVUODm_FESstbbUtfiMIZbg9W7wVLw6sf4DYGHGQlHagt6uqFtzsIQ4gOFSp0UMdVbSAj-jjeaI2o9n257na-H1D4N8BQHKx-aMmXJgDipbb2xFf5yZysaJPOv/s1600/BluePuffySleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LcAJTLNgb9oVUODm_FESstbbUtfiMIZbg9W7wVLw6sf4DYGHGQlHagt6uqFtzsIQ4gOFSp0UMdVbSAj-jjeaI2o9n257na-H1D4N8BQHKx-aMmXJgDipbb2xFf5yZysaJPOv/s400/BluePuffySleeve.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">When the seam allowances are pressed towards the sleeve, you have puffy sleeves like the example to the right. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0nSrBDj7VCCqF6n7cG1q1e35TQZtD3ybvOYWHNwyrp5TwBRjnoGbohoUBKrb4gg_goIUAbBU_FY5_jstGad2rvrhQZEn6jQQan4936MAyNN5dUAKBh9khGaFzNk-SNT1nQkX/s1600/GatheredFLATSleeveCap1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0nSrBDj7VCCqF6n7cG1q1e35TQZtD3ybvOYWHNwyrp5TwBRjnoGbohoUBKrb4gg_goIUAbBU_FY5_jstGad2rvrhQZEn6jQQan4936MAyNN5dUAKBh9khGaFzNk-SNT1nQkX/s400/GatheredFLATSleeveCap1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Pressing the seam allowances towards the "body" (neckline) of the garment, results in sleeve cap gathers that lay "flatter", and present more subtle folds. It's a small detail, but one that is usually kinder to "women of a certain age." (smile)<smile></smile></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; font-size: small;">Directing the seam allowances of gathers one way or the other can make a difference in other areas of</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">a garment, as well. For instance, pressing the seam allowance of a gathered skirt of a dress "up" towards the bodice will encourage the gathers to lay more flat, in smooth folds. Pressing those same gathers "down" (towards the hem) will encourage them to puff-up. The same applies with sleeves gathers at the cuff....pressing the gathered edge towards the cuff will result in a smoother look, while pressing them "up" towards the sleeve will give the gathers a more pronounced puffy look. It's all about what you want and prefer. So remember...despite what the pattern directions say, you do have a choice</span>!</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Sewing Notes: Fabric is a light sweater knit bought many years ago. The Yoke is interfaced with PRO-SHEER<i> Elegance LIGHT</i> Fusible Interfacing from </span></b><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" style="color: blue;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~</span></b></a></div>
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Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-47468435157062022192014-07-18T08:38:00.000-04:002014-07-23T06:09:34.507-04:00How to Sew a "Better" Elasticated Casing !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYjb8egGB9mPhkEUEp5Yuo-uMprWLhTJhoi75-_DBE69S0MNhg-WBQlvE-IZtmlG6UpcLPKoZdgFENfA0Pv1L7KtYu1vF0GZB9veb7EBoii5pGT8GnDLMkUKmvllRKkmkwG6Rn/s1600/000_0002-4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYjb8egGB9mPhkEUEp5Yuo-uMprWLhTJhoi75-_DBE69S0MNhg-WBQlvE-IZtmlG6UpcLPKoZdgFENfA0Pv1L7KtYu1vF0GZB9veb7EBoii5pGT8GnDLMkUKmvllRKkmkwG6Rn/s1600/000_0002-4.JPG" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The blouse shown above in soft cotton batik is one that I made a few years ago from this now "vintage" <a href="http://hotpatterns.com/">HotPatterns.com</a> design that I tweaked a little bit to have a closer fit. This exact HP style (shown below) has been re-designed and is now offered as the <span style="font-size: small;">HP1169 Classix Nouveau Refined Peasant Blouse...and can be seen <a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/hp1169-classix-nouveau-refined-peasant-blouse/" target="_blank">here</a> on the HotPatterns website. </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://hotpatterns.com/" target="_blank"><img alt="http://hotpatterns.com" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYyb9BD6o9kfJOKNG4IoEsqhYgVqRvxr-CvGDF-Wa4KfvJRe_NGwxHesPAJeAX5hHWVEWjKLjteCHpyP0qtM1Cru2GrPuuEWYXxRP0W4Y1bBs8D6z5sDtNzI3U-L3rkqlKWw_/s400/HP-Pattern.JPG" height="320" width="236" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/29558029/womens-peasant-dress-pattern-sis-boom?ref=shop_home_active_9" target="_blank"><img alt="https://www.etsy.com/listing/29558029/womens-peasant-dress-pattern-sis-boom?ref=shop_home_active_9" height="200" src="https://img0.etsystatic.com/000/0/5596592/il_570xN.85841472.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Another great peasant-style top is this one from Carla Crim, <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/29558029/womens-peasant-dress-pattern-sis-boom?ref=shop_home_active_9" target="_blank">"The Scientific Seamstress" </a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> The basic differences between the 2 patterns is that the HotPatterns style has a lovely "couture-like" flowing silhouette, with sophisticated details. The Meghan Peasant Pattern from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/29558029/womens-peasant-dress-pattern-sis-boom?ref=shop_home_active_9" target="_blank">"The Scientific Seamstress" </a>has a silhouette that is both relaxed yet fitted, with pretty sleeve style options, neckline options, and top-tunic-dress length options.</span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I've made them both, and I like the Hotpatterns style for soft flowing fabrics, and I like the Meghan for fabrics like lightweight cotton and soft washed linen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><i>OK..we know Elastic is on sale, we've got patterns to choose from...Now about those Elasticated Casings...</i> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Making a casing for elastic is certainly one of our easier sewing tasks. Turn, stitch, insert elastic...done! Sewn this conventional way, we end up with a perfectly acceptable casing that looks something like the photo below, after the elastic is inserted. Fine...yet a little "bubbly and wobbly"...but something we have come to accept with elasticated casings. <i> </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i> (OK..a word here about "elasticated". I am old enough to remember when *everyone* just said "elastic casing", then one day I started to hear elasticated this/elasticated that...so...today I choose to use the word, elasticated every so often...with a few plain "elastic casings" thrown in ;) But yes, this is indeed just our old friend "the elastic casing" fancied up a bit)</i></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkz90u_BaIrcQgfWEbq8TyzJ_1ZNTPtVvH4QyajyElp_jF85Z2ypqeybZ5j5S8zQIQ8d7Ojs-ZuknIqczZcuxFiZf4cnt9ko_IzKKoBvfaB_vTYfmJk8fyb-jaABDUeqUDaQlZ/s1600/000_0001-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkz90u_BaIrcQgfWEbq8TyzJ_1ZNTPtVvH4QyajyElp_jF85Z2ypqeybZ5j5S8zQIQ8d7Ojs-ZuknIqczZcuxFiZf4cnt9ko_IzKKoBvfaB_vTYfmJk8fyb-jaABDUeqUDaQlZ/s640/000_0001-1.JPG" height="440" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">By taking one additional construction step, you can achieve a "designer" look to an elastic casing garment. A very simple step that will result in a flat, even-edge casing every time, like the one in the finished garment shown....here is a close-up photo-- </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQOm20jWM91g2thyphenhyphenQnsJwI7OI0qZEJ9TrIxyRu9ENR3unly9Jife3FJxR-Mx0RKUgkoLFwnkOra_qJnBRtFUQErIqzAuTgpfRk0AVxX4obV0vA2Ym8A26ZNhxvoVxvYGqQdAA/s1600/Edge-Stitched+Casing+with+elastic-Close-up.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQOm20jWM91g2thyphenhyphenQnsJwI7OI0qZEJ9TrIxyRu9ENR3unly9Jife3FJxR-Mx0RKUgkoLFwnkOra_qJnBRtFUQErIqzAuTgpfRk0AVxX4obV0vA2Ym8A26ZNhxvoVxvYGqQdAA/s1600/Edge-Stitched+Casing+with+elastic-Close-up.JPG" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So what's that extra construction step? Edge-stitching! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">After the casing is folded to the wrong side of the garment and stitched along the BOTTOM edge (leaving an opening to later insert the elastic, of course)....All that we need to do next to lend that "designer touch" is to edge-stitch the TOP fold of the casing...all the way around, as shown below--</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6dJwefpCgseiY5lAVRS2z7VHGlkeol_tFq7MPSr7fpuHjms6-morD6X9H1u1URxI12u5OrF6mfT7tJChSqPE-LsL3afS4VnlHe4p1FZwfrHvolWCfQ_ZOUeREjQPLz06ivY/s1600/Edge-Stitched+Casing+Fold-close-up_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6dJwefpCgseiY5lAVRS2z7VHGlkeol_tFq7MPSr7fpuHjms6-morD6X9H1u1URxI12u5OrF6mfT7tJChSqPE-LsL3afS4VnlHe4p1FZwfrHvolWCfQ_ZOUeREjQPLz06ivY/s640/Edge-Stitched+Casing+Fold-close-up_web.jpg" height="473" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">By taking this one easy extra step, our elasticated casings lose the bubbles, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">and gain some designer panache!</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Quick note from Pam....</b></span></i></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: darkgreen;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Thank-you very much for shopping at
my store and thank-you for continuing to follow my blog. I have not
blogged for a long time because of illness. I am dealing with it in
every positive way I possibly can, and I look forward to being able to
teach you more "tricks of the shirt-making trade" as soon as possible.
Thanks again for continuing to follow me here and on Facebook. I
appreciate it more than you know...and and I<i> will </i>be back...I promise :) </span></span></b></span></div>
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Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-82590405435846536862014-01-19T13:46:00.000-05:002014-01-19T13:46:10.674-05:00New Tutorial on Pam's Shirtmaking Blog- Professional Sleeve Plackets, step-by-step<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>Hi there everyone! I've just posted a New Tutorial </b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-VPj34hbHt4DupZEyTN_fWSsVXEZOFsi_XROaef8NhEvTYjRYHUxIhF50TBcGqP4RYOmoLPIoaUItn91NvqAO9rs_wezVzM4KHQQ9-_6DTchU4L48s1lCN7iGgB0T95dhtcX/s1600/1-1-img_1876-placket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-VPj34hbHt4DupZEyTN_fWSsVXEZOFsi_XROaef8NhEvTYjRYHUxIhF50TBcGqP4RYOmoLPIoaUItn91NvqAO9rs_wezVzM4KHQQ9-_6DTchU4L48s1lCN7iGgB0T95dhtcX/s1600/1-1-img_1876-placket.jpg" height="320" width="268" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>on my</b> <b><a href="http://off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Shirtmaking Blog</a></b></span></div>
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<b><a href="http://off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Click this link</a> to read </b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The Shirt Sleeve Placket, </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">A Professional Custom-Shirtmaking Method and Pattern</span></b></div>
Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-31281072169825220152013-09-08T09:04:00.000-04:002015-01-17T14:23:17.210-05:00Don't miss my My NEW Shirt-Making blog!<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>My new Blog,<a href="http://off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"> Off The Cuff...From a Shirt-Maker's Studio</a> is now live...with a brand new Tutorial to start it off!</b></span></div>
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<b>This blog will remain here, but will <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">rarely</span> be updated. I will be making copies of my past tutorials and moving them to my NEW blog, where they will have their own page for easy sharing and future reference.</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>So if you follow me here....now come and join me at</b> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> <a href="http://off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><b>Off The Cuff...From a Shirt-Maker's Studio</b></a> <b>!</b></span></div>
Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-87826150513207449252013-04-09T10:39:00.001-04:002013-04-09T10:43:29.453-04:00Shark (collar) Attack!<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">First of all, I Did NOT design and sew the shirts shown below...now moving right along....</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />Have you noticed this trend in designer shirts? It's an extremely wide spread collar, now often called a "Shark" Collar (for its resemblance to shark fins).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzzyhowXt1D1lq14kiYbaQXxpkzVySrWutE48D89m9hno1fV9_0KJvDH8VZf1khjDiLSznoHvk4Ru22EXxfKQQEnMciFrSCgWRlswQoN5im1WqPeTEqDN4tzif0ZYzPwCAB9J/s1600/Shirt+RTW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzzyhowXt1D1lq14kiYbaQXxpkzVySrWutE48D89m9hno1fV9_0KJvDH8VZf1khjDiLSznoHvk4Ru22EXxfKQQEnMciFrSCgWRlswQoN5im1WqPeTEqDN4tzif0ZYzPwCAB9J/s640/Shirt+RTW.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<<i>click photo to see detail</i>></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">A wide
spread collar is often asked for when the client wants to wear a
tie with a prominent knot with his dress shirt...but these
days, as you can see above, designers are adding "shark" collars to casual
shirts as well as more formal styles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">But if you go to an experienced Shirt-maker who has been in the trade for more than a minute...and ask for a shark-collar, you are likely to get a quizzical glance
complete with raised eyebrows. Why? Because to Shirt-makers, this is
just a wide-spread collar. We'll make a collar for a client with any
degree of spread they want. Sure, most of have a 'look book' with a variety of collar styles
that have different names..but collar style names often differ
between Shirt-makers from different countries. So many of us use actual sewn examples and/or pictures with names or numbers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Here's a <i>very </i>quickly sketched example of what a "shark" collar pattern draft might look like. Might? Yes...keep in mind that the new spread (shown in green) can be even more extreme. [Please note that only 1/2 of the collar is shown.] If you change a collar from a typical one to a "Shark" style, the collar's short ends will lean towards the Center Back at an angle from the original draft as shown. You will also see that I made the new (green) "shark"collar wider as it approached the point...that's because it would be my personal preference (design choice) on this collar that was already very narrow...nothing more than that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So...what do you think? Yay or Nay to the Shark Collar? Do you like it? Would you or your partner wear a shirt with this collar style?</span></div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-37755087375352045922013-03-31T12:54:00.000-04:002013-03-31T12:54:05.119-04:00Hot Off The Machine...Shirt with Striped Trim Details<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR5KcGoDEyKJEWVH8ufmZsew7yYtHXXNbZZghLtQQtmEjPcTZE6ySOrJ-1-Tdudg3BHweYoOmy-_zIgc0lmu6mv99USC8uKoMVdgG5fJfYsa3C44q3tXO8fHP5ZzHRdTPlTNz/s1600/Blue++Shirt-ribbon+trim_web_BLOG.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR5KcGoDEyKJEWVH8ufmZsew7yYtHXXNbZZghLtQQtmEjPcTZE6ySOrJ-1-Tdudg3BHweYoOmy-_zIgc0lmu6mv99USC8uKoMVdgG5fJfYsa3C44q3tXO8fHP5ZzHRdTPlTNz/s640/Blue++Shirt-ribbon+trim_web_BLOG.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Yep, another shirt....and I've got a stack of custom-designed shirt orders left to to fill. I'll have to make this post a quick one so I can get back to machines. But before I start the next client shirt, DH Roger wants one made from this fabric..and that's fine with me. He deserves it, this fabric was a joy to work with....and I want to try out some new design detail ideas! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING and DESIGN NOTES-- This semi-fitted shirt features grosgrain ribbon details on the right front button band, pockets, and sleeve plackets. The outer collar and its stand, and the outer cuffs are interfaced with<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> ProWoven <i>Shirt</i> <i>Crisp </i>Fusible</span>, a professional grade Interfacing found exclusively at<b> <a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank">Fashion Sewing Supply</a></b> , as are the buttons (from the <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">"Dark Assorted Shirt Buttons By-the-Scoop"</span>). The trim is from my personal stash...source unknown.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">The fabric is an <i>amazingly</i> lovely, finely woven soft chambray from <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank"><b>Gorgeous Fabrics</b> </a>where I have purchased many wonderful shirting
fabrics over the years. Seriously, this <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">"Blue Belle Chambray"</span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Shirting </span>fabric practically sews itself! And the <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">ProWoven <i>Shirt-Crisp</i></span> Interfacing from <b><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank">FSS</a> </b>complemented it perfectly for this menswear shirt style. If using this fabric for a garment for myself, I would have opted to use <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">ProWoven Light-Crisp Interfacing</span> or <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">ProSheer Elegance</span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i>MEDIUM</i></span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Interfacing</span> (all interfacing styles from</span> <a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank"> FSS</a>).<br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-67383790733123484702013-03-28T09:35:00.003-04:002013-03-28T09:58:53.100-04:00Tailored Shirt with Cross-Stripe and Chevron Design Details<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvIKMFWVi88duBRzUD7zhnO9rkRyaAJ01Ra2-vNXLGmha2M8KqhPiZ1yrpHrzjw5JHtX9tp5orf6M1pHSQ-cCB__zQNFr7y1XWTsvTRdshtDn_QOYyVwE7T2bW3jDIpIUcPm_/s1600/Yellow+Shirt-ChevronPocket_WEB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvIKMFWVi88duBRzUD7zhnO9rkRyaAJ01Ra2-vNXLGmha2M8KqhPiZ1yrpHrzjw5JHtX9tp5orf6M1pHSQ-cCB__zQNFr7y1XWTsvTRdshtDn_QOYyVwE7T2bW3jDIpIUcPm_/s640/Yellow+Shirt-ChevronPocket_WEB.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This shirt is one of a few I recently made for one of my clients. It is my original design, made from a hand-drafted pattern. Design details include a Front button stand and sleeve plackets cut on the cross-grain, and a Chevron Pocket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">These beautiful fabrics, a yellow shirting stripe and white shirting fabric from GorgeousFabrics.com were especially fun to work with, since I usually do not use stretch wovens for the menswear shirts I design. Why so much fun? Instead of making my usual flat-fell seams, I used narrow french seams. Maybe it's just me, but I've found traditionally felled seams to be tricky to accomplish with stretch-wovens. So for the menswear shirts when I've chosen to use a Stretch-Woven, I opt to use french seams. For my own shirts in stretch wovens, I serge and top-stitch. Oh yes...when you've felled as many miles of seams as I have over my ShirtMaking career...the switch to French Seams is fun. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">[ Side Thought and Note-to-Self-- A black background is not a great choice for a light yellow shirt..especially when the photographer has limited pic skills like me. ] </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Stretch woven fabrics naturally lend themselves to "Softly Tailored" shirts. So while this shirt appears to have a very crisp collar and very structured cuffs...they are in fact both crisp <i>and</i> soft.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> Huh? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Yes, I know that sounds contradictory. But it all has to do with pairing the correct interfacing with the intended fabric. In order to have professional results, I needed to use an interfacing that would not fight the natural characteristics of the fabric, but rather, work with them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> This woven fabric has some stretch...so the interfacing needed to have some stretch. Not because the collar and cuffs are going to be doing any stretching when worn...but an interfacing with no "give" at all would have rendered the collar and cuffs unnaturally heavy and much too hard. And a knit interfacing would have had been much too soft. So what would Goldilocks have done in this situation if she was a Shirtmaker? She would have used a mid-weight woven interfacing with some "body" and a little "mechanical" cross-wise stretch....just like I did :)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Of course, you know that this GoldenBrowndilocks Shirtmaker had just the right interfacing. In fact, I had thousands of yards of it custom-manufactured a few months ago. <u> <a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank"><i>Pro-Sheer Elegance MEDIUM</i></a> Fusible</u> was exactly the right choice. Not too hard, not too soft, but just right for this shirt fabric and so many other garment and fabrics (stretchy or not).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING NOTES-- <u>ProSheer <i>Elegance</i> Interfacing Light <i>and</i> Medium </u>exclusively available at <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a>, <u>Creme Pearl Italian Designer Buttons</u> from <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a>, Shirting Fabrics from <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/">www.GorgeousFabrics.com</a></span><br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-14327418452580171692013-02-18T12:00:00.001-05:002013-02-18T12:00:22.832-05:00Mens Wool Gauze Shirt with Double Pocket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpGESJTj9PHLyfkg_rRpuhruSHrm3mb9lyJvrhLDTVpnOGFS-OHupjLyzPzeS0iXq2PtxkgRcNEVYL-BoLGzKvKr-E00092My_ieqA1kBiqqbrB3BNS8J9gxAV0ymvq7FCxMQe/s1600/1-Black+Gauze+Shirt-website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpGESJTj9PHLyfkg_rRpuhruSHrm3mb9lyJvrhLDTVpnOGFS-OHupjLyzPzeS0iXq2PtxkgRcNEVYL-BoLGzKvKr-E00092My_ieqA1kBiqqbrB3BNS8J9gxAV0ymvq7FCxMQe/s640/1-Black+Gauze+Shirt-website.jpg" width="501" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I haven't had time to blog for weeks....but I have been sewing! This is one of the many shirts that I've been making for my clients. The fabric is a luscious wool gauze...light and airy...and slightly crumpled in a good way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This design features a bias cut button band and bias cut sleeves with bias sleeves plackets (the plackets made with coordinating wool gauze stripe). I also added a double-pocket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Working with wool gauze is not difficult, but is usually better suited to designs with more drape than a structured menswear shirt. The key to making this beautiful fabric "work" for the structured parts (collar, cuffs, front band, and sleeve plackets) was using the right interfacing. My newest Interfacing style, <i>*ProSheer Elegance MEDIUM Fusible Interfacing*</i> provided the perfect amount of structure plus flexibility needed for a nice crisp collar and cuffs...without "weighing down" the design</span>.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING NOTES-- Interfacing and buttons available at <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a> , Wool Gauze fabric from my personal "shirt-making fabric stash".</span><br />
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A few words about the new men's shirt pattern from Vogue. It will be a while before time allows me to make that particular shirt. I still need to finish more custom-drafted shirts for clients before I can indulge in any personal sewing...and the first personal sewing I'll be doing before I evaluate yet another shirt pattern, will be making a few outfits for my Grand-Nieces.<br />
In the meantime, Peter from Male Pattern Boldness has made V8889, and has reviewed it both on PatternReview.com and on <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">his blog</a>. He did not choose to use the interesting undercollar-button detail, so perhaps I'll find the time to a least make the collar+stand to show you what that little detail is all about!<br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-27305836942625916532013-01-14T20:47:00.000-05:002013-01-15T12:21:55.221-05:00The "Split Cowl Collar" Tutorial<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyrvFnTVaesV3cZGoP_qgAwXYYlvqwj56_EL6xO6jqcfgP4jtzSDYvsqLTBfrzYW4ruySzRbbd5crXlj4nlddvqw5C1JfnDtQGDju8k7mfYkqK5xCzleXlBiI7Jqp2Sa99_9uQ/s1600/Collar+Close-up-blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyrvFnTVaesV3cZGoP_qgAwXYYlvqwj56_EL6xO6jqcfgP4jtzSDYvsqLTBfrzYW4ruySzRbbd5crXlj4nlddvqw5C1JfnDtQGDju8k7mfYkqK5xCzleXlBiI7Jqp2Sa99_9uQ/s400/Collar+Close-up-blue.jpg" width="335" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This is a tutorial about how to add a wide or narrow, short or long, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">or overlapped and asymmetrical collar to any knit top.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">First let's talk about the basic garment. The collar I'll be showing you can be added to any basic knit top. Here are some examples of patterns by Butterick and Vogue that would work with an added collar. Note that the necklines are either "crew" or "jewel" in general shape and depth..in other words..nicely rounded and not particularly deep or wide.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I am going to show you how I added a wide overlapped collar (what I call a ""Split Cowl") to an otherwise simple knit pullover top. The bodice and sleeves are made with Rayon knit Jersey purchased from <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/">www.GorgeousFabrics.com</a> several months ago, and the collar is made from gray rayon ribbed knit that I have in my "fabric stash".</span> ** Please note that all seam allowances used in this tutorial are 1/4-inch---if you start with a pattern that has 5/8" seam allowances, the neckline seam allowance needs to be trimmed to 1/4-inch ** <br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Here are the bodice pieces shown side by side. The front neckline is about 5-6 inches deep. At the end of this tutorial you will see variations that have lower or higher necklines but the construction technique is the same.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The next step is to sew the shoulder seams--</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Now the complete neck-edge (the "hole") needs to be measured. I've found that the easiest way to measure the length of curves is to stand the tape-measure up on its edge, and that is what is shown below- </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7fFw-ep_NQ6vx6BoqkT_vYUNal3QSDYXFNQ-95Ek1d9QUb1V6MD20f4ny9ez3zxLDujeHwTyZ62bake5WFwEddM2_tVcUeiZ0v6mkUQ4E_c_C5KnSMb7Rcj2im7heKy17IoO/s1600/03-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7fFw-ep_NQ6vx6BoqkT_vYUNal3QSDYXFNQ-95Ek1d9QUb1V6MD20f4ny9ez3zxLDujeHwTyZ62bake5WFwEddM2_tVcUeiZ0v6mkUQ4E_c_C5KnSMb7Rcj2im7heKy17IoO/s640/03-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Because the collar is going to be overlapped and so therefore "scientifically exact" measurements are Not needed, I am going to say that this neck edge is 21 inches around. A collar needs to be made that is 21-inches long, plus a generous 3 inches for overlap and to have enough to seam the ends. So the LENGTH of the over-lapped collar needed to fit <i>this particular neckline </i>is 24"...and I usually add an extra inch to give myself a little more overlap. Now what about the width? I have made so many of these tops over the years that I know that I like the results best when the cut collar width (flat and single thickness before it is sewn) is 8 inches to 12 inches wide. As you will see, this is an arbitrary width measurement, and after you make one, you will see the endless design possibilities by changing the width and shape of the collar. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So I have decided that for <i>this</i> top, my collar will be cut 25 inches LONG and 10 inches WIDE.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><i>WAIT! Before we all go cross-eyed...let's pause a moment and put this into perspective-- Remember...this is an easy technique...you'll see! It boils down to this--A very basic rectangular collar is going to be stitched into "the neckline hole" that you see above. There, that's it in a nutshell! Now let's continue....</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Normally I just go ahead and cut out my collar from the fashion fabric and stitch it in. However, you can make a "test" collar from scrap fabric (that you can use as a pattern later) to see if you've measured correctly and like the width and finished folded depth of your collar. Below is a piece of scrap fabric that has been cut to my determined 25- inch length and 10-inch width. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3zwja6_vKWYwlDGdDrV8HSdNO-R0OXtVjKT1leUwis7cLRfas6c6vGBe59DmczQZXUKceExFrtlFhc_5VqCqm5wT6ItGipnE2ggZKncmAHGYm1KbYms6C-9gAXLF-4Ir5RvVs/s1600/04-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3zwja6_vKWYwlDGdDrV8HSdNO-R0OXtVjKT1leUwis7cLRfas6c6vGBe59DmczQZXUKceExFrtlFhc_5VqCqm5wT6ItGipnE2ggZKncmAHGYm1KbYms6C-9gAXLF-4Ir5RvVs/s640/04-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Then I quickly folded it in half lengthwise, and sewed the short ends with a 1/4-inch seam allowance--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJSF8dwAV8XBfldNIAYZRsIYNQhn_M88AA_4qXGt4eGs30Pj8Acm3bXbLq5ZeOtOL68iMLEy_2aHOjT1jtnP0adrlS98Vq3572f3XEQYtH645cBKUmD_eeOUewlCy78A_iKh7J/s1600/05-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJSF8dwAV8XBfldNIAYZRsIYNQhn_M88AA_4qXGt4eGs30Pj8Acm3bXbLq5ZeOtOL68iMLEy_2aHOjT1jtnP0adrlS98Vq3572f3XEQYtH645cBKUmD_eeOUewlCy78A_iKh7J/s640/05-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Next I turned my "test" collar right sides out....and then overlapped it in preparation for it to be sewn to the neck-edge (the yellow pin you see is holding the overlapped collar at its raw edge....the folded edge of the collar is toward the bottom of the photo)--</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The photo below should make things more clear. The bodice has been turned wrong side out, and the collar is going to be "dropped" inside of the neckline "hole", all the raw edges will be aligned, and the collar will be basted (by hand or by pins) to the neckline...right side of collar to right side of neckline. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Note that a yellow pin has been placed at the center back of the shirt and another at the center back of the collar. Then...when the collar is dropped down into the neckline "hole"...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6jsFk3PuJCUjrJjjbqDLfhk8Swq14KPp1_3R-nUs89Cakfa_RoOEsWGYZCwvmfR8C8tuwCmD78px_kpP5sTGskp_9i0D_jShBbivTSgOVYzC8e4SGbnsGbjTdn9cG0ZdAbsU/s1600/06-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6jsFk3PuJCUjrJjjbqDLfhk8Swq14KPp1_3R-nUs89Cakfa_RoOEsWGYZCwvmfR8C8tuwCmD78px_kpP5sTGskp_9i0D_jShBbivTSgOVYzC8e4SGbnsGbjTdn9cG0ZdAbsU/s640/06-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">...it is shifted off center before basting, as shown below. The collar as shown below was quickly pin-basted to the neck-edge in a one-to-one ratio (in other words, the collar is the same length as the neckline, neither one needs to be stretched or eased to fit the other). If the collar is a little longer or shorter than the neck-edge, just increase or decrease the amount of the overlap.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrftpHBLQB5qGM2TORwIidp4V9BzQcsOdG64YHi1H3_FSGK1ffu1UWToV-Y8Jt0sfqXvUNJ0-hwlZ1E-Nhlk2xULuW7hDo48NoDBq3sTIC3d4mBo65B7-OwXVrct6pLa8m3TQ/s1600/08-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="507" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrftpHBLQB5qGM2TORwIidp4V9BzQcsOdG64YHi1H3_FSGK1ffu1UWToV-Y8Jt0sfqXvUNJ0-hwlZ1E-Nhlk2xULuW7hDo48NoDBq3sTIC3d4mBo65B7-OwXVrct6pLa8m3TQ/s640/08-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">To check the appearance of the test-collar, turn it right side out, as shown below--</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was satisfied with the appearance of the collar, and decided to use the same measurements for the "real" collar. If I had wanted to, I could have quickly taken the stitching out and used the test-collar as the pattern for the "real" collar, but I like to just measure and cut simple rectangle shapes with my ruler and rotary cutter, rather than scissors and a pattern. So I did so with grey ribbed knit The short ends of my ribbed collar were stitched and turned right sides out.....and then I hand basted the raw edges to prevent them from shifting before I stitched the collar into the neckline "hole".</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjJVCuoFtdeJeqj9Ekz0SGVctS6OTwMGkxtwKLir9JTpsjSCtnzlnGW3N-yniJN_vA_5DfM9Lpwekh686uX9FZpmN7alvzIGuto3TxBLokt6G1vTZDEppPoUqPAMv52-Yq7ilY/s1600/10-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjJVCuoFtdeJeqj9Ekz0SGVctS6OTwMGkxtwKLir9JTpsjSCtnzlnGW3N-yniJN_vA_5DfM9Lpwekh686uX9FZpmN7alvzIGuto3TxBLokt6G1vTZDEppPoUqPAMv52-Yq7ilY/s640/10-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">In the photo below, the shirt is folded in half, matching the shoulder seams and the neck-edges. The collar is folded in half as well and compared against the neckline, as a guideline for how much to overlap the collar....and where to place the overlap (which is your choice..it can be placed wherever you want it to be).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0E0R71Pfn4yXExu-QqSur03q4FeUkBGKnNb9eioPOxcRq61f8EJBce-Rck4e3VdhwuCmGpbwwthyv4p0h3lB1D2tNRCn0hQrtanlK7vSWifAn9XGb0QIx1AJikzWozv2AcBuA/s1600/11-split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0E0R71Pfn4yXExu-QqSur03q4FeUkBGKnNb9eioPOxcRq61f8EJBce-Rck4e3VdhwuCmGpbwwthyv4p0h3lB1D2tNRCn0hQrtanlK7vSWifAn9XGb0QIx1AJikzWozv2AcBuA/s640/11-split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> Then, as was done with the "test" collar, the collar is "dropped into the hole" of the neckline...right sides together, all raw edges even.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwMh4U7ncTmrpzWwqARhJU5bu1Kuh94OYdkDr6dBPsFEaJG47utq-vcp7eEgCGYXRr_r5F9iQbCuH4MQxx2aYOWXIvqZx0CUz53b5V1CL6MO8f9iNnqllC-SlnYxrBNQNTu5D/s1600/12-img-split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="572" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwMh4U7ncTmrpzWwqARhJU5bu1Kuh94OYdkDr6dBPsFEaJG47utq-vcp7eEgCGYXRr_r5F9iQbCuH4MQxx2aYOWXIvqZx0CUz53b5V1CL6MO8f9iNnqllC-SlnYxrBNQNTu5D/s640/12-img-split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The collar is stitched to the neckline with a 1/4-inch seam by sewing machine or serger. The seam can be left as is, however I like to finish the seam so that it lays flat by top-stitching it down from the right side, as shown below.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeI6fIE1glI_QAYvGonTmyLS9xdwsjett2kDVbf8Drwh5PZEn8hVRhDoyhkogd1SHZCYEaTldJAE3msuzHEw0aUT20pQOOO-JDFjwpplvRsk5tO9cd5vvQgNiFGOrAShj4oDQ/s1600/14-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeI6fIE1glI_QAYvGonTmyLS9xdwsjett2kDVbf8Drwh5PZEn8hVRhDoyhkogd1SHZCYEaTldJAE3msuzHEw0aUT20pQOOO-JDFjwpplvRsk5tO9cd5vvQgNiFGOrAShj4oDQ/s640/14-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Below you see the finished collar and bodice from the right side--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqWHhuJzB2ooXQHTk8Irfx03uMEtIbTFq1vFCZGGybL_yUt1RIuUQvEQpTaaH26Rul1kcmKh1ciyy0kX_QQf_IRZM6Ncb7YR2nc1Zneqq-pvcxrRrI1cWvvAZ-yOrOzZbusy-/s1600/13-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="585" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqWHhuJzB2ooXQHTk8Irfx03uMEtIbTFq1vFCZGGybL_yUt1RIuUQvEQpTaaH26Rul1kcmKh1ciyy0kX_QQf_IRZM6Ncb7YR2nc1Zneqq-pvcxrRrI1cWvvAZ-yOrOzZbusy-/s640/13-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">As you look at the photograph above...are you wondering how a collar that is the same length on each short side, now looks like one edge is quite a bit longer and...that now, somehow, the collar is asymmetric? Here's why: The upper side of the overlap is exactly that...an OVER-lap. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Huh??? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Well...because is has to go up and OVER the other side-edge of the collar, it merely <i>appears</i> to be shorter! And because the under-lap does not have to do anything but lay there....it merely <i>appears</i> to be longer! I just love when a straight collar "auto-magically" becomes asymmetrical just because one side overlaps the other :)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Here are some variations of the design based on the same theme--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTksKI2b9Cpk8jPPZ1No-hbIIpi1WhaAxRypsKuHlnMJ90suKav-xswxxmb58v8amez3ly9w3nMoDih210BD93UkI2qMm05OuNWmF18KQgCSesjxFurnBjjFIczRDCdk9RtlZl/s1600/RedTop_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTksKI2b9Cpk8jPPZ1No-hbIIpi1WhaAxRypsKuHlnMJ90suKav-xswxxmb58v8amez3ly9w3nMoDih210BD93UkI2qMm05OuNWmF18KQgCSesjxFurnBjjFIczRDCdk9RtlZl/s320/RedTop_web.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This red velour top was made with a more shallow front curve, about 4" deep. The collar was cut about 9" wide, with No overlap. The collar was fully interfaced with <i>Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing</i> from <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a> so that it stands up on the neck a bit. Additionally, because the collar was interfaced, the entire neck-edge and shoulders were reinforced with a 3/4-inch wide strip of the same interfacing, as shown below.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-UlhyIY0aUF7GRp4Tg0etfyWu3oVJeib4B-gWoH_Ps43t9JUingc_Fz6gEHe_yoByl-M6Fb9vlhb816RgNKyTA2OIAULqBabtS_GbbkOjW8ErSVLdhjXqA6WBz1hCukPUbB4y/s1600/15-img_split+cowl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-UlhyIY0aUF7GRp4Tg0etfyWu3oVJeib4B-gWoH_Ps43t9JUingc_Fz6gEHe_yoByl-M6Fb9vlhb816RgNKyTA2OIAULqBabtS_GbbkOjW8ErSVLdhjXqA6WBz1hCukPUbB4y/s320/15-img_split+cowl.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This version in Aqua stretch velour features a deeper U-shaped neckline, and the collar was cut about 8" wide with No overlap.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7t9jNzYxITjEdKX5qbIsqk04EIHH48UA4rvam-RHtpNZWf0S3RbwBIiZ2PwfkPw_2UAOXAGIx_fAmCgpI7135EmCgQ54ZdaICcneJGmBucLbKGNL38rHdiVg_STOS61-bKaP/s1600/Aqua+Top_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7t9jNzYxITjEdKX5qbIsqk04EIHH48UA4rvam-RHtpNZWf0S3RbwBIiZ2PwfkPw_2UAOXAGIx_fAmCgpI7135EmCgQ54ZdaICcneJGmBucLbKGNL38rHdiVg_STOS61-bKaP/s320/Aqua+Top_web.jpg" width="178" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCsiFpdRVSpYj7IJWaAG0UVXce5XYKaalvott-Z4d-7rn-QfRGP7wm8qgDRqQU4jG5IOAQhsR2mg2p1VzafZmRgYTTFXCHL_Zl5VeljNy8whJ5yawaHnkJGl3NHJ5IwMiHFChs/s1600/Collar+Close-up-blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCsiFpdRVSpYj7IJWaAG0UVXce5XYKaalvott-Z4d-7rn-QfRGP7wm8qgDRqQU4jG5IOAQhsR2mg2p1VzafZmRgYTTFXCHL_Zl5VeljNy8whJ5yawaHnkJGl3NHJ5IwMiHFChs/s320/Collar+Close-up-blue.jpg" width="268" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This collar was applied to a neckline about as shallow as the Red top, and has about a 4" overlap and is the widest of the examples shown, it's width is approximately 12".</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and see what a simple technique this is for adding an interesting design feature to any basic knit top!</span></div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com59tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-43860501718821629412012-12-16T07:26:00.000-05:002012-12-16T07:26:24.970-05:00 I've been sewing for myself!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8rapRGmfsoNMWyqOkX02lOg6RQ_iTLxzSmFYPzi382iU4zzBp-dXOTDFo3I3JF4xM_p8UcrX3-xncoA72gB49sShqzjZfTfhjP24RYdz8OgeQeT77RcDJ-33L2U5lfTpXFuu/s1600/Split+Cowl+Collar+Top-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8rapRGmfsoNMWyqOkX02lOg6RQ_iTLxzSmFYPzi382iU4zzBp-dXOTDFo3I3JF4xM_p8UcrX3-xncoA72gB49sShqzjZfTfhjP24RYdz8OgeQeT77RcDJ-33L2U5lfTpXFuu/s640/Split+Cowl+Collar+Top-web.jpg" width="385" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">It is that time of year when client shirt orders have been stitched and sent...and I have time to indulge by sewing some new things for myself. After a significant weight loss over the past several months, I still have some pattern-tweaking to do, but I am so happy that I've managed to sew several very wearable casual tops for myself, including this one!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Most are quite simple and not "blog-worthy", but I thought you might like to see this one. I started with a basic jewel neck pull-over, and added a self-drafted "Split Cowl Collar". The fabric is an ancient piece from my stash...a soft stretchy knit with a suede-like nap. I am not quite down to my normal (goal) weight, so the drag-lines you see come from my attempts to make a larger top look a little better on a smaller form.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Here is a close-up of the Collar. If you would like me to write a Tutorial and show how to make and apply a Split Cowl Collar to any basic pull-over knit top, let me know in "comments"...because I plan to make at least one more of this style and can take photos along the way if there is enough interest.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_uEtYznl-YIyGqNPXszOAOG8exQTdMCDVzRTbR_Ep4fxYYtjv7BiIEbMMTfqcxGG3WcUcV3al2pCr9djhMu4XkMXC1V_7337jiHBMxULBgRoHefFiyIIYZdo_0ZIKdppMRKM5/s1600/Collar+Close-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_uEtYznl-YIyGqNPXszOAOG8exQTdMCDVzRTbR_Ep4fxYYtjv7BiIEbMMTfqcxGG3WcUcV3al2pCr9djhMu4XkMXC1V_7337jiHBMxULBgRoHefFiyIIYZdo_0ZIKdppMRKM5/s640/Collar+Close-up.jpg" width="536" /></a></div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com107tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-35082371849476299512012-12-05T15:49:00.001-05:002012-12-05T15:53:31.632-05:00A Near Miss...<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This is a pretty darn good "final muslin" of a nicely detailed shirt...or so I thought.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh882OShHwDoYWGENdEKyhDthDUuIPsB0fy-NkQ7si_IpZS9x6LBH9wiWfkx793W46LCw5RKE8F-4x_iLtXBT7Lwj84FRJA1RpTYhp9ToXdeF62RUSAZjVC0H4L8735dKaxQGb4/s1600/blue+check+bias+details-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh882OShHwDoYWGENdEKyhDthDUuIPsB0fy-NkQ7si_IpZS9x6LBH9wiWfkx793W46LCw5RKE8F-4x_iLtXBT7Lwj84FRJA1RpTYhp9ToXdeF62RUSAZjVC0H4L8735dKaxQGb4/s640/blue+check+bias+details-web.jpg" width="580" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was very pleased with the bias details on the right side Front, Cuffs, and Sleeve Plackets. But more than that....this new pattern draft for my DH Roger fit him perfectly, and he really liked the design details! In fact, even though this shirt was the "final muslin", and only made with serged-then-topstitched seams...it looks good enough to actually wear, don't you think? [that funky bit at the left shoulder is just from not pinning it perfectly to my photo-wall] And even more than that...this fabric was a bargain, and I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived to see that it didn't look or feel "cheap".</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So, OK then...after I tossed this one into the wash to rinse out the starch I used to stabilize some of the bias details, I was ready to move on to another shirt for Roger, made from the same checked fabric in a different color. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I was just finishing the prep work on the final pattern for the second shirt when this blue one was ready to come out of the dryer. I handed it to Roger and he put it on, or rather he<i> tried </i>to put it on. Despite pre-washing/drying the fabric...this nice blue shirt shrank! Not a little bit...the sleeves and body were 1/2" too short. No big deal on the body-length, very big deal with the sleeves. And it shrank a bit width-wise too.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">OMG! How the hell did this happen! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I may have mentioned this before. I am a compulsive pre-washer...I always, I mean<i> always </i>wash shirting fabric once in hot water/hot dryer, then again in warm water/warm dryer. And I measure the length and width before and after. This fabric passed my obsessive pre-wash evaluation with just a tiny bit of shrinkage. Nothing shrank during the construction, and I always press with plenty of steam. So this extra shrinkage surprise really was a surprise! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The thing is, Roger really likes this checked fabric in the other color. So against my better judgement, I am going to make another shirt for him with this fabric. But this time in addition to my usual pre-wash routine, I am going to use my hottest wash and dry cycles one extra time, and then for good measure (ha, ha), I'll wet the yardage, spin out the excess water, and dry it on hot one <i>more</i> time. Not (usually) being a foolish woman, I did wash/dry the now-shrunken blue shirt you see here to see if it would shrink again. It didn't. So I feel only a little anxiety about the other fabric.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">What am I going to do with this blue shirt? I considered pinning it on my wall as a reminder to never again buy cheap shirting fabric from that really huge online fabric store...no matter how nice it looks. But in the end I donated it...it's a nice enough shirt, someone will get use of it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">What did I learn? To wait until my always reliable online fabric store and wholesale sources of "better" shirt fabrics have what I am looking for, and until then to shop from my considerable stash.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">What are those reliable sources for menswear shirting that I use, you ask?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Retail-<b> <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/">www.GorgeousFabrics.com</a></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Wholesale- my little secret :)<span style="color: blue;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">And one more thing. Before another menswear shirt gets sewn by my hands.....my hands are going to get busy making a few tops and a few pairs of pants for myself. Yay me! </span> <br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-87482665054519020612012-11-19T09:25:00.000-05:002012-11-19T09:25:18.359-05:00Brushed Denim Shirt...Distressed around the Edges<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7vtzIn6EXG7I4EOSiYH26yb7FuEoJXPus2_-Ebc9VcP8ogy3c95L5NO29s_s_qZEuP3Q8nOZEaZpG-oR8RmUWwBF4D2u_b50VJh72Wg1SRGKGvaZGhbUCDGXPjrXknpfXOSgG/s1600/Brushed+Denim+Shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7vtzIn6EXG7I4EOSiYH26yb7FuEoJXPus2_-Ebc9VcP8ogy3c95L5NO29s_s_qZEuP3Q8nOZEaZpG-oR8RmUWwBF4D2u_b50VJh72Wg1SRGKGvaZGhbUCDGXPjrXknpfXOSgG/s640/Brushed+Denim+Shirt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="userContent">Lately I have been spending all my free time in my studio
making Shirts! This is one of them, a Brushed Denim Shirt, featuring a
Double-Pocket with Distressed Edges. The distressing on the pocket and all the top-stitched seams was done by rubbing them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper.</span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING NOTES: <u>Pattern</u>- my original design and hand-draft. <u>Fabric</u>- from my shirt-making stash. <u>Interfacing</u>- <span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>ProWoven</b></span> <span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Shirt Crisp</b></span> from</span> <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRMuYwujSGthTFjnOXmYdBwWyJxetun1dOgSrss0XG340lTvtXXrtSIj8Tjuq4PKpZa62YfgNEu2NdboBU9Q-aZ8nDvByJMK_S9340OilZpfUihVFisGX-PBSVbPEYI63rSAWa/s1600/Smooth+Coconut+Shell+Buttons%252Chalf+inch-4+hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRMuYwujSGthTFjnOXmYdBwWyJxetun1dOgSrss0XG340lTvtXXrtSIj8Tjuq4PKpZa62YfgNEu2NdboBU9Q-aZ8nDvByJMK_S9340OilZpfUihVFisGX-PBSVbPEYI63rSAWa/s320/Smooth+Coconut+Shell+Buttons%252Chalf+inch-4+hole.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="userContent"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="userContent"><u>Buttons</u>-- These New smoothly</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="userContent">polished 1/2-inch 4-hole </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="userContent"><b>COCONUT SHELL</b> <b>Buttons</b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span class="userContent">from</span></span><span class="userContent"><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank"> www.FashionSewingSupply.com </a></span><br />
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<br /><br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-9529523900665010042012-11-11T17:58:00.000-05:002012-11-11T17:58:08.742-05:00Menswear Shirt With Shaped Yoke<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0Z6f2Db8qsllP-Gm044_Thmbe6ZFpjvYV_zLrJj00vvJDyU0vC1aaKrHnGlU1050NBfS6P-wWqrlEtzbRnE_JRlI7Nwr7U-Sa6ljIDcAuJXhnRqvvsvYt-4At_LPpkoXlZox/s1600/Green+Double+Gauze+Shirt-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0Z6f2Db8qsllP-Gm044_Thmbe6ZFpjvYV_zLrJj00vvJDyU0vC1aaKrHnGlU1050NBfS6P-wWqrlEtzbRnE_JRlI7Nwr7U-Sa6ljIDcAuJXhnRqvvsvYt-4At_LPpkoXlZox/s400/Green+Double+Gauze+Shirt-web.jpg" width="287" /> </a></div>
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I had a few moments to snap a pic of this shirt </div>
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just before Fedex was due to pick it up and send it to my client.</div>
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It is made from a reversible cotton/rayon blend shirting featuring tiny herringbone checks, that has a soft limp drape...and should be very comfortable to wear during my client's temperate winter climate. As you can see, I used the predominantly green side for most of the shirt pieces, and chose to cut the shaped yoke, button and front plackets and pocket accents from the reverse side.</div>
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SEWING NOTES-- Pattern is my own hand-draft. Fabric is from my wholesale supplier. Interfacing used is ProWoven Light-Crisp Fusible from <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a></div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-22746845581870520272012-10-08T12:55:00.001-04:002014-11-08T20:00:36.096-05:00Perfect Collar Points...A Shirtmaker's "Secret" Technique<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">"Secret" in this case meaning that after all these years </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I am finally sharing one of the ways I achieve</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> "As close to perfect as possible" Collar Points </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">on the shirts that I design and sew
for my clients.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgofEEQWmakA7-CqNt4t4_foaaOobofxvTTnK4PfC3KWtK5vv3drvGw8mQckSTTwvTlnFvT7t6Y8_fUmBM6K35ZgFMjYoePRCx9cApuurN-c91aAe9bXbwLmmJYMfMFLO30g74q/s1600/Close-Up+Collar+point,+copyright+PamErny.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgofEEQWmakA7-CqNt4t4_foaaOobofxvTTnK4PfC3KWtK5vv3drvGw8mQckSTTwvTlnFvT7t6Y8_fUmBM6K35ZgFMjYoePRCx9cApuurN-c91aAe9bXbwLmmJYMfMFLO30g74q/s640/Close-Up+Collar+point,+copyright+PamErny.jpg" height="305" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span></b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(Extreme close-up of a Collar point)</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This amazingly simple Collar Point technique is used by many Custom Shirtmakers all over the world. Like many of the techniques I use, it was learned during my Tailoring and ShirtMaking Apprenticeship.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">There are certain techniques that Custom-ShirtMakers use to get professional results, and this is one of them. Before I get to the tutorial, please note that there are a few things that (almost all) Custom ShirtMakers "Always do", and "Never do". We TURN collars, we do NOT "poke" them out with pointy objects, or any other object, template or gadget. Also, when we want a Point, we <i>SEW</i> a Point...we do NOT pivot taking 2 stitches. And we NEVER sew a collar with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, because it wastes time and fabric.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">That said...if you Pivot and Poke and use 5/8-inch seams, and are happy with your results.....I am NOT the self-appointed "Point Police Officer"! So carry on...and disregard what follows. :)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">If you want your collar points to be perfect every time, with very little effort....here is the method that most of my professional ShirtMaking colleagues and I use with great success...even on the thickest shirt fabrics. In fact, the fabric shown in this demonstration is a thicker than usual, double-weave wool/cotton herringbone shirting fabric.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The first step to a great collar is to reduce the seam allowance of your collar pattern piece to 1/4-inch (Please note that you will also have to change the shirt-body neck edge seam allowances to 1/4-inch). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> Then cut 2 collar pieces, and Interface one of them as shown below. Generally, the top collar is interfaced. For a softer look, interface the bottom collar or interface both for a very crisp collar. The interfacing shown here is</span> <i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Pro-Woven Light Crisp</span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Fusible Interfacing</span></i>, <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">from <a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a>.) I will elaborate about interfacing techniques another time....today it is all about The Point. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">So to continue, shown below are 2 collar pieces with 1/4-inch seam allowances-- </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yZ0b3-SyRzD6S5gCZ6QZqOoEWGR18xHTYLTNolQffbLUikms6juuTvfRylZeftO2blK3XJadGMxu49j1VcJPdEqe1-kcO3TyobYWQOHzX0mLzAxqZoLVDdiRdkXDW_nioOY6/s1600/Collar+Pieces-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yZ0b3-SyRzD6S5gCZ6QZqOoEWGR18xHTYLTNolQffbLUikms6juuTvfRylZeftO2blK3XJadGMxu49j1VcJPdEqe1-kcO3TyobYWQOHzX0mLzAxqZoLVDdiRdkXDW_nioOY6/s640/Collar+Pieces-1.JPG" height="356" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> (All photos may be "clicked" to enlarge)</span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Next, Place the collar pieces right-sides-together (RST), and stitch the long top seam completely from one edge to the other, as shown--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsP83z3K-vSkNBzXxVc8VQQ64Ic2hSiOv85WVeB1uHxJxdKqUZdtgzTprOjROOORfGLs8K5pV0iKaVddC37NfyN6s02VmR7QxCA6z4vE6oVkUzPRQ2oIfUlEmTNwO0sKgEaTuP/s1600/IMG_0516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsP83z3K-vSkNBzXxVc8VQQ64Ic2hSiOv85WVeB1uHxJxdKqUZdtgzTprOjROOORfGLs8K5pV0iKaVddC37NfyN6s02VmR7QxCA6z4vE6oVkUzPRQ2oIfUlEmTNwO0sKgEaTuP/s640/IMG_0516.JPG" height="244" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Press the seam flat, then press it open. Then turn the piece so that the Right Side is facing up, as shown--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXLm_4XSygVeY0DfEWlm-UWvSNvSM8icFWXv5_3Oj_DwFk-hPZji2Sg4wawrfTeFHPjzUBq8p5MoGgKsfARiLbGjlUGfwsQVeZP5aCRSzLYDlS68c3U6uGzuY22ui2rJ4hR6y/s1600/IMG_0518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXLm_4XSygVeY0DfEWlm-UWvSNvSM8icFWXv5_3Oj_DwFk-hPZji2Sg4wawrfTeFHPjzUBq8p5MoGgKsfARiLbGjlUGfwsQVeZP5aCRSzLYDlS68c3U6uGzuY22ui2rJ4hR6y/s400/IMG_0518.JPG" height="202" width="400" /></a></div>
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The following steps will be done on <i>both </i>sides, for each collar point, when making a collar. </h3>
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However, just <i>one</i> side will be shown here to demonstrate the technique.</h3>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">STEP 1-- Cut a piece of thread about 15-20" long and fold it so there is a loop on one end, as shown-- </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">STEP 2-- Lay the folded thread <i>exactly </i>in the "well" of the seam, with a generous portion of the LOOPED side going off the edge, as shown--</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">STEP 3-- Fold the collar Right Sides Together, matching the short side seams of the collar, and "trapping" the folded thread INSIDE, </span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">snugged-up against the line of stitching.</span> (The looped side sticks out beyond the edges), as shown-- </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL_VQz519e_Xm4RfohGPpTl1Uoblv9wkjwzLwU3LIY_-pF4nPtM-QFSFXTB1pX_YifpT1RsYqQ_CbQiwCjOB9P3l_sGMFmKIJ97y7Rs7tiVV_boF7lEP1azwG4vDhceINHLtVM/s1600/IMG_0529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL_VQz519e_Xm4RfohGPpTl1Uoblv9wkjwzLwU3LIY_-pF4nPtM-QFSFXTB1pX_YifpT1RsYqQ_CbQiwCjOB9P3l_sGMFmKIJ97y7Rs7tiVV_boF7lEP1azwG4vDhceINHLtVM/s640/IMG_0529.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> STEP 4-- Move it to the machine...but before any stitching is done, lift up one layer of the collar and make sure that piece of thread is still right against the seam, as shown below. If it isn't, use your fingernail to nudge it into place.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MRzETDxyL6-Coyyq399ZRzyYfPkGdWQtLk6SODjpzMDz1E4Dx4581FRqk_NPBiprWrSlUSpdJAyjUC00OXNCSa3dUyxGcZJhvIlnNDCY2V2IfodONmINf6hVI3fNDjx9yLcN/s1600/IMG_0534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MRzETDxyL6-Coyyq399ZRzyYfPkGdWQtLk6SODjpzMDz1E4Dx4581FRqk_NPBiprWrSlUSpdJAyjUC00OXNCSa3dUyxGcZJhvIlnNDCY2V2IfodONmINf6hVI3fNDjx9yLcN/s640/IMG_0534.JPG" height="494" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Now carefully match the short edges of the collar, and stitch the seam. IMPORTANT-- Because the thread loop must be secured when this seam is sewn..Stitch the First Inch of This Seam with VERY SMALL/Short /Tiny STITCHES. (I use 22 stitches per inch, the number 1 stitch length setting on my machine) ...then change back to your regular stitch length, and finish sewing the short end of the collar. Notice that the looped side of the thread is still sticking out beyond the edges--</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOlPHknwahyphenhyphenHPzYnDSxl99HcouASOE9qVSpW1ocdNs3eDoUIS7xOlV6bZqWMFVjPVEcMG-5_KEu49kCjc4qYyEGnVRJLfjAcJA8tBjt_fSZX6ozy_iqvTZ74CYxmR8dz5DAnH/s1600/IMG_0539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOlPHknwahyphenhyphenHPzYnDSxl99HcouASOE9qVSpW1ocdNs3eDoUIS7xOlV6bZqWMFVjPVEcMG-5_KEu49kCjc4qYyEGnVRJLfjAcJA8tBjt_fSZX6ozy_iqvTZ74CYxmR8dz5DAnH/s640/IMG_0539.JPG" height="339" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">STEP 5-- After the side of the collar is stitched, carefully trim the seam allowances as shown below. <span style="color: #990000;">(Make Sure NOT to Cut THE THREAD LOOP! Repeat...Move that loop out of the way before trimming!</span></span><span style="color: #990000;">)</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Yes, this is all the "point trimming" that is needed...trust me.</span><br />
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----- REPEAT Steps 1-5 on the Other Side of the Collar -----</h3>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Here is the really fun <i>"OH My Gosh !"</i> Step---</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Do this separately for each Point....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Reach INSIDE the collar and grasp BOTH of the 2 thread TAILS.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> (NO! NOT the loop! Grab BOTH of the loose threads inside!)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> Keep Pulling BOTH of those 2 thread tails....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Gently keep Pulling BOTH of those thread tails....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">And keep pulling BOTH of those 2 thread tails until the collar point is turned out completely--</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pClXwOxso19vdQ_OLfoLBdgtSwhZViz8k7LV0SdgmrkFKxWj5qqQWErki1LiwxWyLkkziH04Pzwt-BmWl9_Zskpm-7ATl72bTSvYNKXkh0C8Xq8sbl6Qi1sYfj4fX9O47Jo8/s1600/IMG_0557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pClXwOxso19vdQ_OLfoLBdgtSwhZViz8k7LV0SdgmrkFKxWj5qqQWErki1LiwxWyLkkziH04Pzwt-BmWl9_Zskpm-7ATl72bTSvYNKXkh0C8Xq8sbl6Qi1sYfj4fX9O47Jo8/s640/IMG_0557.JPG" height="640" width="630" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">WOOT ! LOOK AT THAT POINT !</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Now to get rid of the thread...Just pull ONE of the thread tails....until the last of it slips through and out.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCz_Fp7iAV602yLL2zq2G-1WKIWiugNwzqzM6cgoUaIjK_Kssw_Py881H9Z1EPOCRA-nl4h_2nLC9GXdxXr69hDu1-Bk0goiyheKcJXoZ4uwaPnXm7JTvJAtyDBKpmpp_FSkd/s1600/IMG_0561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCz_Fp7iAV602yLL2zq2G-1WKIWiugNwzqzM6cgoUaIjK_Kssw_Py881H9Z1EPOCRA-nl4h_2nLC9GXdxXr69hDu1-Bk0goiyheKcJXoZ4uwaPnXm7JTvJAtyDBKpmpp_FSkd/s640/IMG_0561.JPG" height="441" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Here is an <i>extreme</i> close-up of the collar Point....BEFORE is has even been pressed and edge-stitched... No Humps, No Lumps, No unsightly Bumps! Once turned, the 1/4-inch seam allowances "fit and fill" the point...stopping the "Tip Flip" so often seen in "made-at-home" Collars.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">So...do you think you might give this fast and easy method a try when making a collar?</span> If you do, I suggest making a quick "mock-up" with scrap fabric (you can skip the interfacing) to practice the thread-loop technique.</div>
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Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com136tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-7024215966529379702012-09-29T11:17:00.000-04:002012-10-15T08:19:43.759-04:00"The Knot that's Not a Knot, Cowl Collar", Tutorial Revisited<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr0iCZ4HFhNtvR_7bWFa3tmh6Fi1DuEvZk-J9SYpj1pvE8yB0raY8s7skfnGWckZtbohQFwg1O6ZjywQcinWf3pIMp-DXgGk5brzuL6DV-igQk-AOCNkVeuVvBgyFlwNQGF8x/s1600/Knot+Cowl.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr0iCZ4HFhNtvR_7bWFa3tmh6Fi1DuEvZk-J9SYpj1pvE8yB0raY8s7skfnGWckZtbohQFwg1O6ZjywQcinWf3pIMp-DXgGk5brzuL6DV-igQk-AOCNkVeuVvBgyFlwNQGF8x/s640/Knot+Cowl.JPG" width="504" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b> </b><a href="http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2011/11/tutorial-knotted-cowl.html" target="_blank"><b>Click Here</b> </a>to learn how to make</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> the <a href="http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2011/11/tutorial-knotted-cowl.html" target="_blank"><b>Knotted Cowl.</b></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I am revisiting one of my most popular tutorials because....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">a <i>not-fun-at-all</i> thing happened on my way to writing the <br />"ShirtMaker's Secret" Collar Tutorial that I promised to show you. </span> <span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Being busy at work is the only good thing in an otherwise pitiful scenario. What follows is the "idiocy/pitiful" part. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I have not had a spare moment to even step into my Studio for several days, and because I tend to be absentminded about these kinds of things...I left 2 large dehumidifiers running full-blast in my Sewing Studio for almost 6 full days days! Now my sewing machines and even my computer in that room are "dead". My repairman said that the hot dry air could have gotten <i>so</i> dry as to gum-up the grease (???)...but whatever, all I know is that (OMG) I now have 4 sewing machines that no longer work...at all. They can be rescued, but it will take some time at the repair shop. I am choosing <i>not </i>to think about what all that hyper-dry air might have done to all of my thread. But I will oil up my vintage machines (thankfully being kept in a different place), and get that Shirt-Collar tutorial to you as soon as I possibly can. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the meantime you have my apology, and hopefully you will enjoy the revisit of this tutorial about how to make one of my favorite designs, <b>The Knotted Cowl</b>....<a href="http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2011/11/tutorial-knotted-cowl.html" target="_blank">click here for the tutorial.</a></span><br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-19765742970758038832012-09-17T15:45:00.002-04:002012-09-18T10:57:28.725-04:00Priority #1, Sewing for Two Sweet Little Girls<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Yes, I did promise you a collar tutorial...and you will get it sometime next week. My life has been very hectic lately....including some health challenges and preparing the house for my Stepdaughter's upcoming visit. "Preparing the house" included a total overhaul of my fabric stash. Throughout that ordeal, I kept saying to myself, "I am not a hoarder, I am not a hoarder, I am not a hoarder....." <grin> The upside is that I found some really great fabric I had totally forgotten about!</grin></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD43BKzFXWhIm0Ieq_kGzRixDOJiNuhNAOvzsL4Y18OgkYEfxy-gkknUa6l-5msytuVT4iX9pV4qvygBExlPWY8ue5ClHOVFQ2czfcu-ZsUtkt8168V_eGp1GUw1JDKxIEVdDo/s1600/Set+for+Julianna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD43BKzFXWhIm0Ieq_kGzRixDOJiNuhNAOvzsL4Y18OgkYEfxy-gkknUa6l-5msytuVT4iX9pV4qvygBExlPWY8ue5ClHOVFQ2czfcu-ZsUtkt8168V_eGp1GUw1JDKxIEVdDo/s1600/Set+for+Julianna.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">But aside from filling your <a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank">interfacing orders</a>, and sewing shirts for my clients, my priority has been fulfilling my promise to sew a wardrobe of pretty new clothes for my two "adopted-through-friendship" grandchildren...Julianna age 5, and Brooklyn age 3.</span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is the newest set for Julianna. The pattern, <u>Pierrot Tunic Top</u> is from <a href="http://www.made-by-rae.com/">www.made-by-rae.com</a> made in a soft cotton fabric. The Leggings pattern is one of the many by <a href="http://www.ottobredesign.com/">www.OttobreDesign.com</a> made in a Cotton/Lycra
knit. The Child's dress display stand is from </span><a href="http://www.ellieinspired.com/" rel="nofollow nofollow" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">www.ellieinspired.com </span></a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now while I have about an hour of free time, I am going to have some fun sewing another set for Julianna :)</span><br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-24966692628189486362012-09-01T13:11:00.000-04:002012-09-01T13:11:42.510-04:00Pink and Black for Julianna<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjIlS-pEh3h_jm3RUSOIPqxNVUt1L47ZcxOYJ7Xg_bU5iZRT8qDCHbdMoqyAlB8tIjfTjuHAUI3V3XxlQS7robiwvtjUCzly-A1bjeZOStjzeoGvg3kzFCr5XE_eIP4cHhZ5h/s1600/Pink-black+butterfly+dress+and+pants-J-web+best+2-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcjIlS-pEh3h_jm3RUSOIPqxNVUt1L47ZcxOYJ7Xg_bU5iZRT8qDCHbdMoqyAlB8tIjfTjuHAUI3V3XxlQS7robiwvtjUCzly-A1bjeZOStjzeoGvg3kzFCr5XE_eIP4cHhZ5h/s640/Pink-black+butterfly+dress+and+pants-J-web+best+2-a.jpg" width="601" /></a></div>
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<span class="userContent"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I made this Tunic and Flared Leggings set for
Julianna (age 5). She will be starting the first grade
soon! The next time I see Julianna and her little sister, I'll take some
pics of them modeling their new outfits. The patterns for this outfit
are redesigned drafts of *Ottobre Design* styles</span>.</span>Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-26522879740346498132012-08-20T15:33:00.000-04:002012-08-20T15:33:37.077-04:00I've been busy!<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">
...but unfortunately not sewing much. I am developing a brand new style of interfacing, getting the remainder of last week's orders shipped, and then taking a few much needed days off.</div>
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However I did manage to find a little time yesterday to sew this dress for little Brooklyn, age two... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAvlXpXFzJn-wDhAKU-1a4FnruCWQsVg3fuBrKCaw4xlk8ZpCv39WBZHeyeQgrnhyphenhyphenDKssF_HsH_aQPB9uexs7wpUN3i0T2QCQ-GGTx1eTr1f_e1mvECgQ6KWSp-8J9MyOoSWUm/s1600/Brook-BowTie+Dress+Pink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAvlXpXFzJn-wDhAKU-1a4FnruCWQsVg3fuBrKCaw4xlk8ZpCv39WBZHeyeQgrnhyphenhyphenDKssF_HsH_aQPB9uexs7wpUN3i0T2QCQ-GGTx1eTr1f_e1mvECgQ6KWSp-8J9MyOoSWUm/s640/Brook-BowTie+Dress+Pink.jpg" width="531" /></a></div>
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This is not one of my designs, it is from a Pattern Designer on Etsy... <b> </b></div>
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/RubyJeansCloset" target="_blank"><b>Ruby Jean's Closet</b></a>.</div>
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The patterns she designs are easy enough for beginners, and more experienced sewists can easily see where to use more sophisticated techniques...like interfacing the facings and edge-stitching the bodice and straps. And on this dress I made it easier for Brooklyn's mommy on washing day, by edge-stitching both the inner and outer edges of the front pleat....that way it stays "pleated" with no ironing :) </span><br />
<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-2877896361913111532012-07-31T12:07:00.000-04:002012-07-31T12:10:26.826-04:00Sewing For Little Girls...So Much Fun!<div style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
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I have so much fun sewing for the 2 little girls in my life, Julianna, age 5 and her little sister Brooklyn, and now that shirt orders have slowed down a bit, I have time to make some pretty things for them! </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Front of Ruffle Top</span>-- washable "silk" flower accent added by me.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This top/tunic is super fast and easy to make. While I could have just looked at the photograph and drafted my own pattern, I do not think it is fair to get design inspiration from an Etsy shop, without paying the Designer/Pattern-maker for their ideas. This pattern is called "The Double Ruffle Top", and comes as a download from the Etsy pattern shop, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span><b style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/littlelizardking?ref=seller_info" style="color: blue;" target="_blank">"Little Lizard King"</a></b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span><a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/littlelizardking?ref=seller_info" style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;" target="_blank">(<--- link to shop)</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFvMjxyNvZboA-6orsQ6YBptcBudA77Mgcc1wyr-nKqmyx1i4eKfgz7J6upoA7RaUDwC_xCs2oBKkxLKW5mWHfqVQ16DG8zCCd1yKwoMnA3rjyJqcAv8FJA4FbypCHY-21CKM/s1600/J%2527s+double+rufle+top%252C+Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFvMjxyNvZboA-6orsQ6YBptcBudA77Mgcc1wyr-nKqmyx1i4eKfgz7J6upoA7RaUDwC_xCs2oBKkxLKW5mWHfqVQ16DG8zCCd1yKwoMnA3rjyJqcAv8FJA4FbypCHY-21CKM/s640/J%2527s+double+rufle+top%252C+Back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Back of Ruffle Top</span>-- The ties come through 2 buttonholes in the back bodice.</div>
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The pattern instructions are written for beginners (no interfacing, exposed seams). More advanced sewists will know where to use more refined techniques, and that interfacing the bodice will give a more "finished" look to this little top.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">In addition to interfacing the bodice, I decided to add one of my <b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">-Washable </b><b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">"silk" </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Flowers-</span></b> to the front bodice, in order to balance the bow on the back of this top. If you would like to see the tutorial I wrote about making these floral embellishments....<a href="http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2011/08/tutorial-how-to-make-washable-flower.html" style="color: blue;" target="_blank">CLICK HERE for The Washable "silk" Flower Instructions.</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniKtsf9fFvFDrYwdY9crLif2oDF6fS6az7z5KivRFktorr7q-3XQC3ccEZ3PaVqXbCImCTie5e66cZPokERwyGTJCZ4QTEMUiYs6Lg5f9ni995UCPnlCp_iE2r72cjCW1vL-z/s1600/1-1-Band+Collar+Check-stripes-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="627" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniKtsf9fFvFDrYwdY9crLif2oDF6fS6az7z5KivRFktorr7q-3XQC3ccEZ3PaVqXbCImCTie5e66cZPokERwyGTJCZ4QTEMUiYs6Lg5f9ni995UCPnlCp_iE2r72cjCW1vL-z/s640/1-1-Band+Collar+Check-stripes-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Give me wonderfully fine Swiss Cotton Shirting any day....over shirting fabrics marked "Easy Care".</div>
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Ladies and gentlemen, it took me HOURS to sew this shirt...a design that should have taken 2 hours max. Why? It's made from "easy-care" aka "no wrinkle" fabric that I was foolish enough to buy during a sale when my regular shirting fabric suppliers were a little low on selection.</div>
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Can you even see that the contrast fabric is white with blue pinstripes? Probably not, since the fabric has a strange sheen that made photography a challenge no matter what camera settings I used.</div>
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I hope my client likes it....because the only thing I didn't have to do twice on this shirt was match the checks and fuse the interfacing..those two things were easy. The rest, like creasing folds and getting perfectly even topstitching, was a challenge. And of course, I chose to add bias details, because gee whiz when the fabric is strange to sew with, you might as well frustrate yourself further by placing crucial parts like the collar band and cuffs on bias, right?</div>
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Ah well..I will soothe myself today by working with some delicious Italian Shirting cotton..that's woven so finely it resists raveling. And so I will stay with "Ravel-resistant" and skip "Wrinkle Resistant" from now on.</div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-70380513774284998712012-07-14T11:44:00.002-04:002012-07-14T11:44:44.124-04:00Angled Yoke and Blue Checks too!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-uOCqEnZqz5dmzJWmRYRhCqbRcmCbpX3-TII3kaZpbGhNdG9IA8tWb4X-tOM2QgE1II8qy7tEtqlwOrHmhcbrM5cBWvpH1Rz8Z1gBW7LCz_gEDOeInGiprP56nZmkBzLTJxja/s1600/reverse+check+shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-uOCqEnZqz5dmzJWmRYRhCqbRcmCbpX3-TII3kaZpbGhNdG9IA8tWb4X-tOM2QgE1II8qy7tEtqlwOrHmhcbrM5cBWvpH1Rz8Z1gBW7LCz_gEDOeInGiprP56nZmkBzLTJxja/s640/reverse+check+shirt.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This "Angled Yoke" shirt was made from some interesting reversible fabric that I received from an unexpected source. I used the lighter side for the left front placket, yoke lining, collar stand, inner cuffs, and as an accent on the hem of the pocket. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The best part about making it was the surprised smile on Roger's face when I told him that this shirt was for him, not a client!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING NOTES--I chose to interface this shirt with </span><i style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">"Pro-Woven Fusible Light Crisp Fusible Interfacing"</i><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">, an exclusive product from </span><a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/" style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">. Both collar pieces were fused, as were both the inner and outer cuffs and both pieces of the collar stand. It gave the perfect amount of support to this novelty shirting. The white buttons are from the </span><i style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">"Light Assortment--Designer Buttons by-the-Scoop"</i><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> also from </span><a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/" style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</a>Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-1302369516148971102012-06-24T13:42:00.001-04:002012-06-24T13:42:39.186-04:00Plain Vanilla Shirt...with Hem Detail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ctrhIIy3dXPl1tXsP8zl1YtUTicG0MvfPby7emkT5EeY5rO6lOZA2yS6d03eLhY7sAa3g4-CYnlJPNNnPzSxUDqW7l05qzGzYJH8t8TRwjHNHyiA6F6KL6604103ud0nKUvI/s1600/Vanilla+Shirt-EuroHem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ctrhIIy3dXPl1tXsP8zl1YtUTicG0MvfPby7emkT5EeY5rO6lOZA2yS6d03eLhY7sAa3g4-CYnlJPNNnPzSxUDqW7l05qzGzYJH8t8TRwjHNHyiA6F6KL6604103ud0nKUvI/s640/Vanilla+Shirt-EuroHem.jpg" width="595" /></a></div>
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Many of the shirts I make for my clients are of the "Plain Vanilla" type...tasteful but not fancy.</div>
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Usually I do not bother to post these to my blog because you have all seen plain tailor-made shirts 1000 times over. And I was ready to send this one to my client when I realized that it has a design detail that you might like to see.</div>
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I learned to call it a "European Placket Hem" but it may go by other names. You can barely see this detail in the photo of the shirt above. Here is what it looks like on the "button" side of the shirt--</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk2K1a4symu_XFMoaKcGCTwsvFaJAT6_PbADwHoJv5WjwjPd05p7EIUypOg8OlBLSP2a-wyIABWwOhw7E6OhN1fJ84Rjw-R_f1BNt2A7i5W7A0QwHKqoNBRgEWRdUrj8bOLeB/s1600/Hem+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk2K1a4symu_XFMoaKcGCTwsvFaJAT6_PbADwHoJv5WjwjPd05p7EIUypOg8OlBLSP2a-wyIABWwOhw7E6OhN1fJ84Rjw-R_f1BNt2A7i5W7A0QwHKqoNBRgEWRdUrj8bOLeB/s400/Hem+detail.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Often I use it as a little pocket to hold extra buttons. If my client loses a button, their local tailor has them conveniently right with the shirt. Here is photo of the placket in its unfinished position--</div>
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This is not a separate piece. It is cut as an extension of the button placket. To finish, it is folded up to the right side, and edge-stitched. Placing buttons inside is optional, and the shirt sent to this client does not include them inside the placket extension.</div>
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-72512985892155527352012-06-06T12:56:00.000-04:002012-06-06T12:59:35.989-04:00Batik Madness....continued<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41944-QBF4bHrBgmxdEcbECp7vwDzABMfulSLZipj5pT-nVgff4rSJpQmCrboiqG7M235ysn5g6SijEMM-155QOcn_NToS6xTPkX1R0tPQ9F8qy5_qfA3JVlKHdgCoItLKQON/s1600/1-Blue+Batik-Vertical+Streaks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41944-QBF4bHrBgmxdEcbECp7vwDzABMfulSLZipj5pT-nVgff4rSJpQmCrboiqG7M235ysn5g6SijEMM-155QOcn_NToS6xTPkX1R0tPQ9F8qy5_qfA3JVlKHdgCoItLKQON/s640/1-Blue+Batik-Vertical+Streaks.jpg" width="444" /></a></div>
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This is (almost) the last Batik shirt I'll be making for a favorite client of mine.</div>
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Made from Cotton Batik fabric that was cut on the cross-grain, </div>
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this short sleeve shirt features twin pockets with flaps, felled seams, </div>
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and double top button spacing.</div>
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Double top button spacing? What the heck is that?</div>
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Notice that the top two buttons are spaced closer together than the others. This gives my client the choice of how far down he wants to "open" his shirt. Conventional button spacing would have given him only one (practical) choice for the depth of turn-back of the revers on this casual shirt. By adding an extra button, he can have the option of a deeper/lower turn-back. This is what "custom" shirtmaking is all about...giving the client options he cannot get off-the-rack, like custom sizing and double buttons.</div>
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Another option that we have when we sew for ourselves or others, is customizing the pattern.</div>
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Some commercial convertible collar shirt patterns have a narrow front facing that looks something like the one marked "Pattern X" below. As shown, I draft my facing pattern for casual shirts of lightweight fabrics quite wide...especially at the shoulder and upper chest area. The reason I do that is so the facing edges do not show if my client chooses to open his shirt to the second button, or if he chooses to wear the shirt completely open the facings look like more like a design detail than just the "inside" of the shirt. The narrow pattern facing would have a tendency to show its inner edge, and just looks "skimpy"...again, in my opinion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjai1zcZLN36Xf4cnibwZ-ODj234TpKWw4kRKNjtdW601ZnqGUEwJVMOL_d0yp_dDN1NsP6M14wxczFiDXctE5Vujtf5By-L-evGRbLhoeWe6cD1kKb5ARkWk96GeX9HIJ6efAo/s1600/Facing+Pattern+Comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjai1zcZLN36Xf4cnibwZ-ODj234TpKWw4kRKNjtdW601ZnqGUEwJVMOL_d0yp_dDN1NsP6M14wxczFiDXctE5Vujtf5By-L-evGRbLhoeWe6cD1kKb5ARkWk96GeX9HIJ6efAo/s400/Facing+Pattern+Comparison.jpg" width="280" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> Also, it is</span><i style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> my opinion</i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> that a wider facing where it meets the shoulder line of the shirt makes the entire shirt-front stronger and more stable for men...who, let's face it, tend to put more "stress on the seams" of their clothes. The back yoke is completely faced...it's nice and strong, completely stable and ready to withstand the stress of wear. Of course, I cannot face the entire shirt front (well I could, but it's not practical for many reasons), but I can put more fabric at the shoulder and upper chest by making the front facing wider in those areas. This wider facing is perhaps a minor point. But it is small differences like these that make custom shirts different, and one of the reasons why there still is a market for custom-made apparel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">SEWING NOTES-- Front facings and both collar pieces interfaced with </span><b style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Pro-Sheer <i>Elegance</i></b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> <b>Fusible Interfacing</b> from </span><a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/"><b style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</b></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">. <b>Black buttons</b> from the <b>"Dark</b></span><b style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> Assortment" Buttons-by-the-scoop</b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> from </span><a href="http://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/"><b style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">www.FashionSewingSupply.com</b></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">. Lightweight <b>Cotton Batik fabric</b> from <a href="http://www.fabric.com/">www.Fabric.com</a>.</span><br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-24936293528760271412012-06-04T15:01:00.000-04:002012-06-04T15:01:01.616-04:00Batik Madness !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQLGGkYr1g9hZr6nnGWjNQKnV3w92RZwlqoEs4N9dk7FtFu-WM1U6md7k_T4NYpGqgs003ci90HSRwOQwUsw2oKf25L3vIDH0MF5j19cmc4DG7cwtrKw4aYhz35_MT6GMvniaX/s1600/Blue+Cotton+Batik,+2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQLGGkYr1g9hZr6nnGWjNQKnV3w92RZwlqoEs4N9dk7FtFu-WM1U6md7k_T4NYpGqgs003ci90HSRwOQwUsw2oKf25L3vIDH0MF5j19cmc4DG7cwtrKw4aYhz35_MT6GMvniaX/s640/Blue+Cotton+Batik,+2012.jpg" width="476" /></a></div>
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This is the latest in the parade of double-pocket Batik shirts I have been making for one of my favorite clients. Because of the busy print in variations of the same shade of blue, you can barely see any of the design details...and I apologize for that. But I wanted to show you the shirt anyway because I think the colors are so striking. </div>
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I am stitching another shirt for this client today...so stay tuned for at least one more Shirt in this parade of Batik Madness!</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">SEWING NOTES-- This fabric is a slightly heavier weight than the thin cotton batiks I usually use. So instead of the</span><b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank"> Pro-Sheer Elegance Interfacing</a> </b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">that I usually choose to interface these casual shirts, this one is interfaced with </span><b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank">Pro-Woven <i>Light</i>-Crisp Fusible</a></b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">. The buttons, and a wide variety of Professional-Quality Interfacings are available at my store, </span><a href="http://fashionsewingsupply.com/" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" target="_blank"><b>www.FashionSewingSupply.com </b></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">(where we have substantially Lowered shipping rates ). Fabric is from my wholesale shirting supplier.</span><br />
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<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10604511.post-63303438709693154192012-06-02T12:29:00.000-04:002012-06-02T12:33:16.119-04:00TUTORIAL-- Fast and Easy "Twin" Pockets<div style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
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I often get requests from my clients for a shirt with two pockets, like this one...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2swQ_WFCgwDHpqUSR_QmHOXFbC_tglFysd1lTU3srcq9c6mVgKsBfUAoES3_t1l_bU_yp4o2eg0BKR7fHV3NIy4E6XzXe524Bg7FMXehQqIWImtQ_0ecSIybvq0jbhCazc8w/s1600/Twin+pocket+Batik+Shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2swQ_WFCgwDHpqUSR_QmHOXFbC_tglFysd1lTU3srcq9c6mVgKsBfUAoES3_t1l_bU_yp4o2eg0BKR7fHV3NIy4E6XzXe524Bg7FMXehQqIWImtQ_0ecSIybvq0jbhCazc8w/s640/Twin+pocket+Batik+Shirt.jpg" width="627" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">At my studio we call them "Twin Pockets" if they are to be of identical shape...but getting them to actually be </span><i style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">identical</i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> can be a challenge!</span></div>
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<i><b>Here is the fast and easy method that I use to make 2 rounded pockets that are the exact size and shape--</b></i></div>
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<b> TIP-- this method is much easier to do if your pocket pattern seam allowance is 1/4". Make a copy of your pocket pattern and trim the seam allowances to 1/4" if needed. </b></div>
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Start with a piece of fabric that is at least 3-4" longer than your pocket pattern and at least twice as wide. Then tear it to get one perfectly straight on-grain edge--</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Then fold the torn edge 1" to the wrong side and press...</span><br />
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Then turn it again 1" to the wrong side and press. This gives a double-folded edge that will become the hem of both pockets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxoiKoFqKHann63sBR0MqWDznPHaPNNwd4pIUj0Na6NoAsYdCz1NskthWITUkGBL3udL5eWdSkAo5eqyPR3sxpync2t6RVpzQPRKb7eGL75VuV9Xeo8VHJryaxYmBluzxnZEb/s1600/03-img_0112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxoiKoFqKHann63sBR0MqWDznPHaPNNwd4pIUj0Na6NoAsYdCz1NskthWITUkGBL3udL5eWdSkAo5eqyPR3sxpync2t6RVpzQPRKb7eGL75VuV9Xeo8VHJryaxYmBluzxnZEb/s640/03-img_0112.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Next take the fabric to your machine, and stitch the top as if you were hemming a pocket (which actually is what is being done :) All stitching shown here is in contrast thread so it can be seen more easily...click any of the photos to enlarge them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So now we have a piece of fabric that has one straight edge that has been double folded and hemmed. The next step it to fold it in half, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, matching the top "hemmed" edges exactly. You will know that you have folded it correctly when the smooth side (right side) is inside the fold, and you can SEE the "lip" of the hem that was stitched (the wrong side). All that is being done here is folding the piece in half -RIGHT- sides together and making sure the "hemmed" edge is aligned along the top.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeE2wRhUUxvBIkiJ1C496H0DvLQ58bGVAIHefXjkkBuaGO-ccVpFX0hQ_B5oMAq_vTdcJRM2cingGQpYVCdnCuF2FcsDXK2KwCvF5kK5pnUleR3gR-OLgJ9gYaDV72954VZFq/s1600/05-img_0116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeE2wRhUUxvBIkiJ1C496H0DvLQ58bGVAIHefXjkkBuaGO-ccVpFX0hQ_B5oMAq_vTdcJRM2cingGQpYVCdnCuF2FcsDXK2KwCvF5kK5pnUleR3gR-OLgJ9gYaDV72954VZFq/s640/05-img_0116.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now we need to make this hemmed piece of folded fabric into 2 pockets! </div>
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Position your pocket pattern on top of the folded fabric as shown below. The fabric has already been hemmed, so the pocket is placed as shown...<b>with the Hem allowance above</b> <b>the double folded (hem) edges</b>. <i> </i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><i>Remember, because the fabric has already been hemmed...the hem allowance of the pattern is</i> NO LONGER NEEDED</span>....so that is why it extends above the fabric.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Now take a ordinary pencil, and trace all the way around the pocket pattern, as shown.</span><br />
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This is what it will look like after the pocket has been traced--</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> Now, carefully take your traced pocket to the sewing machine (you may place a pin or two to help keep the layers straight if you want to).</span> <i><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b> LOOSEN THE Top TENSION OF YOUR MACHINE</b>. </span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Then with a regular stitch length...<b>stitch INSIDE the traced line</b> the width of your pattern's seam allowance. As you can see from the previous photos of my pattern, my</span> <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">seam allowance is 1/4"..so it's easy to use the edge of my presser-foot as a guide. <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">(Please read the TIP about seam allowance at</span> <span style="color: #38761d;">the start of this tutorial).</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Next, remove the excess fabric around the pockets (remember, we are making 2 at the same time), <b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">by trimming along the PENCIL LINE</span></b></span><b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">.</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"></span><span style="color: #990000; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">DO NOT cut the STITCHES!</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHLnkCw2uNtprc1fUauhLEn4RWu61znaBONYlYI3BjG1JXkaSqPGnHl_tNTnbcQ7AnvQlXunDyO1LYCJxrVfJ8sQTip8H93frcU9HuJH1FIdp1m___UscoaJk4m5EoSKhjWzy/s1600/08-img_0131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHLnkCw2uNtprc1fUauhLEn4RWu61znaBONYlYI3BjG1JXkaSqPGnHl_tNTnbcQ7AnvQlXunDyO1LYCJxrVfJ8sQTip8H93frcU9HuJH1FIdp1m___UscoaJk4m5EoSKhjWzy/s640/08-img_0131.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">After the excess has been trimmed, we now have two pockets that have been loosely stitched Right Sides Together. The next step is to turn the unit right side out, and roll the seams between your fingers so that the seams are even along all the edges. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Then firmly press the "joined" pockets. As you are pressing, the seam allowances (now inside) are being perfectly and identically pressed...no guess work...no tedious templates.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOOjbZKXaeRLTjeS44VfogwNFaPc6qarNr-SuWcDachk6QFVk1vNtFCBDqXKsdFF-VqvuhpOTWQYy5sWbuJ7TMrCKi1yRPb39NHEPjDxTzL4n2YQQJkccvB-Jzs8yAUj50GNP/s1600/10-img_0135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="547" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOOjbZKXaeRLTjeS44VfogwNFaPc6qarNr-SuWcDachk6QFVk1vNtFCBDqXKsdFF-VqvuhpOTWQYy5sWbuJ7TMrCKi1yRPb39NHEPjDxTzL4n2YQQJkccvB-Jzs8yAUj50GNP/s640/10-img_0135.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After pressing, pull out the stitching that is holding the two pockets together. This should be easy to do...but if not, use a seam ripper to help separate the pockets.</div>
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This what your pockets will look like from the WRONG side--</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSK5xVMrrX6skB1J7Lct5A3BBLyB9-G4Bd24DroQy37esACPBiLauJTSxJ6qG0lidmzcTFaufWHRQGHSKvdsbMdPi29xUCQBnNM9quGVGcsqBWDM__ZOPhjNFWnyXMTMGTa1kX/s1600/11-img_0141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSK5xVMrrX6skB1J7Lct5A3BBLyB9-G4Bd24DroQy37esACPBiLauJTSxJ6qG0lidmzcTFaufWHRQGHSKvdsbMdPi29xUCQBnNM9quGVGcsqBWDM__ZOPhjNFWnyXMTMGTa1kX/s640/11-img_0141.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And this is what your pockets will look like from the right side...lovely and identical, already hemmed and ready to be sewn to your garment !</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzSl2xu8enLNeh1FZp60Ze4BTQqnXjNe3fRp_SDQkmWARjwvrgO5NtK1tyFF-M4yUObFAHIE3zdNlX_jxsworwskubTFL6D74KxQa-XMKRGNyUL-57UuhNWsYPtTT-QuQRcvQT/s1600/12-img_0142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzSl2xu8enLNeh1FZp60Ze4BTQqnXjNe3fRp_SDQkmWARjwvrgO5NtK1tyFF-M4yUObFAHIE3zdNlX_jxsworwskubTFL6D74KxQa-XMKRGNyUL-57UuhNWsYPtTT-QuQRcvQT/s640/12-img_0142.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Pam Ernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18364147606316729502noreply@blogger.com65