Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~

Make your own Fusible Stay-Tape...without cutting strips!

2012-01-23T10:11:00.000-05:00

Make your own Fusible Stay Tape...without tedious cutting or trimming!

You can make any width of fusible stay tape that you may need if you have

ProWeft Supreme Lightweight Fusible Interfacing on hand.

It's So Easy....because ProWeft Supreme Lightweight will tear perfectly straight along the cross-grain, every single time! All you need to do to make your own fusible stay tape is to make a little snip at the selvedge edge, then tear the ProWeft Supreme Light across the width of the yardage. Because ProWeft Supreme Light is so wide, each strip will be 60" long.

The tape I made shown in the photo above was "snipped-then-torn" about 3/8-inch wide. You can tear your strips at any width from 1/4" to 1/2" to use for reinforcing the front edges of jackets (or for wherever you need to use a soft "fusible stay tape"), up to 2-3 inches or more to reinforce jacket hem and sleeve vents, and other tailoring/dressmaking uses.

This "Stay-tape" will fuse easily along any straight fabric edge, and because ProWeft Supreme Lighweight is so flexible, you can follow any curve or angle easily (as you can see in the photo above).

What makes this Interfacing so special?

Pro-Weft Supreme Lightweight Fusible has become known as "The interfacing for All Seasons" because it is a knit and woven interfacing combined into one fabulous product that "breathes" because of its unique weave and its specially formulated highly flexible fusible resin.

Custom-milled exclusively for Fashion Sewing Supply, it is available in both Natural or Charcoal Black. It's terrific for tailoring (especially as a complete underlining for jackets and coats), stablizing hems, wonderful for waistbands, and super for casual shirts made from medium to heavy weight fabrics like denim, chambray, hemp, and flannel. Pro-Weft Supreme Light is perfect for so many types of fabrics and weaves like Linen, Boucle, Silk, Gabardine, Wools, Denim, Twill, and more!

How is it different than other kinds of Interfacing?

A woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard has the lengthwise fiber threads (warp) and crosswise fiber threads (weft) woven together. PRO-WEFT Supreme Lightweight is a special kind of "weft insertion" interfacing where the fiber threads are first knit, and then crosswise (weft) fiber threads are woven (inserted) into the knit yardage.

Woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard is totally stable. Knit interfacing like
Pro-Tricot Deluxe is soft and has stretch. By combining the properties of both knits and wovens, PRO-WEFT Supreme Lightweight is both totally stable and wonderfully flexible.

Please visit ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~ for more information.

DIY Sewing Machine Repair !

2012-01-20T09:59:00.020-05:00

SEWING MACHINE REPAIR from Autonopedia

I found out about the Autonopedia site from a fellow member of the Creative Machine (a Yahoo Group). The site is jam-packed with information about cleaning, oiling, and repairing our sewing machines. It sure seems to be a fantastic source of useful information...so I am passing it along, just FYI :)

TUTORIAL- Refine the Lines...Making a Shirt look "Custom" - REVISED

2012-01-19T05:14:00.003-05:00

In this tutorial I am going to demonstrate how to refine the shape of a typical "straight-line" Yoke and Back of a commercial Shirt pattern.

The differences between shirts made from most commercial sewing patterns and my custom-made shirts are often quite subtle, but deliver a big impact on how the shirts look when worn. The shirts I draft by hand have yokes that lay smoothly along the upper back and shoulders with no bunching or ripples. The seam that joins the yoke to the back is contoured...allowing the fabric below to flow over the body gently, rather than just fall from it.

^Click any of the photos to enlarge^

Two of the many subtleties that I incorporate into my shirt designs are curved (shaped) yokes and backs. The pattern pieces shown above are examples of a "pattern-in-progress" that I am hand-drafting for one of my clients. It is based on a draping session done to achieve a truly custom fit and will be fine-tuned before the final pattern is drafted and the fabric cut.

Of course, I cannot possibly teach you my custom shirt pattern "Drafting by Hand from Measurements" methods in a blog post.

But I can demonstrate how to refine the lines of a commercial pattern that has been drafted with a "straight-line" Yoke and a "straight-line" Back. The commercial pattern used to make these changes should be one that has regular ease, rather than a "fitted" style.

Let me add here that if you have a shirt pattern with a straight Yoke and Back that you like, that's fine. I am not saying that one draft is "better" than the other. This is just an example of how to do another draft...one that I just happen to prefer :)

The first step in this process is to make a copy of the pattern that you want to change ( NOTE--it is best to make these changes to a pattern you have already sewn "out of the envelope" in the correct size and with which you are fairly satisfied, because I will not be addressing fitting issues.)

You will need a copy of Yoke, the Back (without the Center-back pleat...fold it out of the way before making the copy), and the Sleeve...ALL OF THEM WITHOUT THEIR SEAM ALLOWANCES. Please note that with the exception of the sleeve, working with 1/2-width pieces is easier when making these changes, and will take less time and paper than making full-width copies of the pattern pieces.

The brown paper pattern pieces that you see in this demonstration purposely do NOT have notch markings...because I want you to see how the SHAPES change without extraneous marks.

Let's begin with refining the YOKE.

As shown below, Mark a point that is approximately at the mid-point along the bottom of the yoke pattern piece. Make a second mark at the side that is a very scant 1/4-inch up above the corner. Then using a ruler with a gentle curve, draw a line connecting the marks. If my written directions are not clear, the photo below should be. Please remember this is not rocket science, I have just drawn a gently curved line on the Yoke piece. The key to this entire process is to make small gentle changes to the existing pattern. The goal is to "refine" the pattern in a subtle way, not to make big design changes...we'll do that another time.

Next, cut along the curved line that was drawn, trimming off the excess, to finish making the new Curved Yoke--

Now we will refine the BACK Pattern Piece of the shirt to match its newly curved Yoke--

Lay the New Curved Yoke piece onto the the Shirt Back as shown below....the yoke will be "pointing" down, and center backs are matched. You can see how the straight part of the Shirt-Back extends beyond the new curved Yoke. Now, transfer the curved shape of the Yoke onto the straight part of the back by tracing along the edge of the yoke with a pencil as shown.

After you trace the shape of the Curved Yoke onto the Shirt-back, it will look something like this--

Next, just as we did with the Yoke...trim off the excess (by cutting along the curved line that was drawn) to finish making the new Curved Back.

And there we have it! Two pattern pieces that once were straight are now curved--

BUT WAIT! There has been a total of a scant 1/2" removed from the pattern pieces at the armscye edge...making the Back armscye a little smaller. You may be thinking, "OMGosh! What about the SLEEVE ?" Luckily it is as easy an adjustment as the others.

Here is how to change the SLEEVE pattern to fit the new Back-armscye--

Take the copy of the sleeve pattern that you prepared (I am showing you a shortened version for this demonstration), and mark the shoulder dot by comparing it to the original pattern. Then draw a straight line from the shoulder dot to the bottom (hem or cuff-edge), as shown below.

Then cut along the line, starting at the top (shoulder point) and ending about 3" from the bottom. You are not cutting it totally apart, just about 3/4 of the way down--

To finish, lap the Sleeve BACK over the Sleeve front...by a scant 1/2" as shown below, and tape to hold. (note- I have folded the Top edge of the Back ONLY so you can see how it was overlapped).

Because we ONLY changed the BACK armsyce of the shirt Body, we ONLY need to change the BACK of the Sleeve. The front of the sleeve stays the same, and the shoulder point has NOT been moved.
Remember what I said about Small Gentle Changes? If the Yoke and Back are changed by more than a scant 1/4" each, a total re-drafting avalanche will break loose!

ALTERNATE METHOD--- IF YOU ARE RELUCTANT TO CHANGE THE SLEEVE TO MATCH the SLIGHTLY SMALLER (SHORTER) BACK ARMSCYE--

Restore the length of the Back armscye by extending it out at the side seam by a scant 1/2" -- NO SLEEVE CHANGE NEEDED.

So we have new refined patterns, now what?

1. Add the seam allowances and notches to your pattern pieces-- Trace them again, adding the seam allowances. Then use the original pattern piece and transfer any notches/pattern markings including "place on fold" mark, and grain lines.
About the notches on the Sleeve--the only one I care about is the shoulder point, and I also make marks indicating the front and back of the sleeve. Why don't I care about the sleeve "ease dots"? Because I do not use them. I match the Shoulder point of the Yoke to the Shoulder Point of the sleeve, then distribute whatever ease there is as I stitch and approach the rounded sleeve cap.

2. Remember, the Center Back pleat was removed from the Back when the pattern copies were made. You may choose to leave it off, or add it back on by measuring the width of the pleat on the original pattern and remembering to add it when you are tracing the final pattern with seam allowances.

3. I know some of you are wondering about the FRONT, aren't you? We have done nothing to the front at all...so we USUALLY do not have to make any changes to it.

OK..I hear the gasps of shock and horror from the "by-the-book" pattern drafters out there. Relax...remember, we just made very small very gentle changes. There is a possibility (depending on how the front armsyce of your commercial pattern has been drafted), that the length of side seams of the shirt might not match exactly. So, before you set the sleeve, fold the shirt at the shoulder point on the yoke, match the unsewn side seams from the hem edge up to the armscye and trim IF there is any excess.

You may be wondering, "Good Heavens, does Pam do this to every shirt pattern she uses?" Umm..NO. I do prefer curved yokes and curved backs, so I draft my original shirt designs by hand, and include those features as I render the draft. When I use commercial patterns, I usually choose vintage patterns because many of them already have shaped yokes and backs. And yes there are times when I use a vintage or other pattern that has a "straight-line" yoke and back...when I want a more casual shirt silhouette.

Over the years I have written countless sewing tutorials and also many about Drafting Shirt Patterns, including ways to improve the patterns that you already have. Here are the links to my Drafting Tips and Tutorials below, for your convenience--
(THE COLOR OF THE LINKS below may be light, BUT THEY DO WORK...the Blogger editor is often uncooperative...sigh)

How to Add SEAM ALLOWANCES To Traced Patterns the EASY Way

A Special SHIRT COLLAR and its PATTERN

How to Draft a Better Collar

Shirt Pattern Alteration for Full Hips and Abdomen

Slim-cut Shirt Pattern Draft discussion, and Shirt Design Reference Book

Changing Seam Allowances for Professional Felled Shirt Seams

Pam's Popular Pockets--Pattern Drafts

Hair Balls in the Sewing Studio !

2012-01-14T19:56:00.000-05:00

Roger cleaned the castors on my "studio sewing chair" and this was the ~~disgusting~~ abundant result....

Cough, Cough, Cough, Blech!

All that thread slowing down my chair really did feel like tangled hair balls!

...not that I have ever personally experienced a hair ball (and you'll just have to take my word on this).

Ooooooh my chair "feels" so much better! Now I can easily roll on over and continue to write and photograph the "Shirt Pattern-Drafting Finesse" TUTORIAL that I have been preparing for you :) Here's a hint--

My New Bundle of PRESSING Joy!

2012-01-11T10:17:00.002-05:00

OH BOY! I have a brand new really Large and Wonderful

Tailor's Pressing Ham!

Isn't she beautiful?

As you can see...this new Ham of mine is so much larger than the ones found at fabric and notions stores.

It is professionally hand-made by Sonia at The Stitch Nerd Shop ...and very reasonably priced for it's size.

Oh yes, you need one of these...you really do.

If you have never had a large pressing ham like this one...well...you don't know what you've been missing. The long length of curve gives you so much better control of pressing darts and princess seams...it makes a big difference.

I used to have one just like it during my tailoring apprenticeship, but my EX-husband threw it into the fireplace along with some of my other sewing tools when I announced I was leaving...but that's another story. I did try to make one myself from sawdust begged from a lumber mill...but the thing exploded all over my sewing machine and studio when I tried to stuff and stitch it. I have been using a make-shift version of a large ham...but it's not at all the same as this new one. And really, I suppose I could have tried the whole saw-dust thing again...but to me It just wasn't worth trying again when these are so well-made and reasonably priced.

I have absolutely NO affiliation with this store. I am just extremely impressed with the quality of this product.

So impressed that I just ordered this Ham and Seam-roll Holder...the one I am using now needs to go to the same place that I just tossed my former very ancient (smaller) Ham...into the trash!

She claims to be a Tailor?

2012-01-05T12:10:00.002-05:00

...and Yes, really and truly I am :) While it's true that the focus of my apprenticeship was Shirt-Making, I was instructed quite intensively in both Classic and "Simple" tailoring.

Although my lifestyle now is quite casual, there are times that I take a break from Shirt-making for my clients to draft, tailor, and sew jackets and coats for myself.

Here is an example of the kind of "casual" tailoring I do for myself these days. I made this coat a few weeks ago, from lovely cashmere coating that a Tailor friend sent to me. I drafted the pattern myself...a simple wrap style with side panels, and slightly dropped sleeves. Please pardon the quality of the photo. I just snatched the coat straight out of out of the closet, put it on my form, and snapped the pic. A little steaming to smooth the nap near the hem would have a good idea, but...oh well, next time :)

The fabric was completely underlined with Pro-Weft Supreme Medium (exclusive to Fashion Sewing Supply), with 2 layers of it used in the turn-back collar/revers areas, all facings, and the back vent. It gives the perfect amount of support without affecting the luscious fluidity of the cashmere. Of course, the coat is fully lined.

Next up in my tailoring plans is a notched-collar blazer jacket, made with this lovely wool tweed and a pattern I drafted myself.

Or maybe I'll make it from another wool fabric I have made "ready for the needle" by using my *Dryer Pre-treament Method*. Here's the link in case you missed the tutorial when I first posted it way back in 2009 ;)

I often change my mind about the fabric right before the scissors snip the cloth. But at least I am committed to the pattern!
The muslin has been stitched and fitted and I am very happy with the draft.

Hopefully I will be able to sneak away from all the action going on at my online store, Fashion Sewing Supply, and at least get the jacket cut-out and interfaced! And I'll try to remember to snap some photos along the way, so you can see my progress.

Don't Miss This Video!

2011-12-25T07:35:00.001-05:00

Like the Costume Fairy...only Taller !

Thanks to my friend Alethia at www.SewMuchTalent.com for pointing out this sewing clip to me... We've all been there, haven't we?

FREE PATTERN- Coat for the Homeless

2011-12-15T07:23:00.000-05:00

There are many weeks of cold weather ahead...please spread the word about this free pattern. I am going to make one for the man who "lives" under the porch of the American Legion in my town.

PATTERN and INSTRUCTIONS available at Carol Kimball's Site, HERE

This information came to me by way of Kathleen at Fashion-Incubator

In Kathleen's words:

Carol Kimball and Carol Phillips (they refer to themselves as the Carols so I will too) designed a simple coat pattern that can be used to make coats for the homeless. The hooded coat folds up at the bottom when sleeping to keep the feet warm and it has sizable inside pockets that can be used to place insulation or belongings. ...you can get the instructions on how to make the pattern and how to sew it on THEIR SITE . You are encouraged to freely distribute their pattern and instructions provided it is not sold and credit attributed. I'm sure they'd also like to know if you make any so do write them.

Spot-Fusing...A modern Tailor's Method

2011-12-05T14:10:00.002-05:00

While I am taking some time off from Blogging to take care of some personal business, Here is a repeat of one of my most popular Tutorials.....

Block Fusing is a method that many modern tailors and home-sewists use to apply interfacing to fashion fabric yardage before the pattern pieces are cut out. Have you ever struggled keeping the interfacing layer from slipping off-grain as you attempt to fuse it to your fabric yardage? Next time, try this fast, easy, and accurate method that I learned from a Master Tailor during my apprenticeship, called "SPOT-FUSING"...And it can be done right on your cutting table!

^ STEP 1 ^

First, we need to prepare the surface of the table. The photo above shows my cutting table covered with 2 layers of HEAVY weight muslin (from Gorgeous Fabrics), and one layer of very thick wool (a heavy wool blanket will work as well..I just happen to have felted wool yardage that I use for this technique). It is VERY important that these layers be smooth and free of wrinkles, so thoroughly smooth them out before proceeding.

^ STEP 2 ^

Next, lay out your fashion fabric on top of your "padded" table, WRONG side UP...making SURE it is smooth. What you see in the photo above is 3 yards of 60" wide silk/wool suiting fabric. The cut edge of the fabric is to the left, with the rest of the yardage hanging off the right side of my table. There is no need for weights to hold the fabric in place...the under-layer of wool holds it nicely. But if you need to, weights can be placed along the top edge (in the above photo, the (top) cut edge is to the left).

^ STEP 3 ^

Now lay your Interfacing FUSIBLE Side DOWN on the (wrong side) of the fashion fabric, making sure it is smooth and on grain. I am using Charcoal-Black Pro-Weft Supreme Light Interfacing, one of my custom-milled professional grade interfacings available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply.

^ STEP 4 ^

This is where the Spot-Fusing happens :) USING a thin PRESS CLOTH, and your steam iron set to a low-wool setting, start moving your iron over the interfacing with an UP and DOWN motion. DO NOT slide the iron, just move it all over the interfacing, pressing with steam for a few seconds, picking up the iron, moving it over an inch or so, and steam pressing again for a few seconds. I start pressing in the middle along one edge, and spot-press to one side until I reach the edge of the yardage, then begin again in the middle and work towards the other edge. I keep repeating this, working my way down and along the yardage, until all the yardage on my table has had the interfacing "tacked" (SPOT FUSED) down. Then I carefully pull the next section of fabric + unfused interfacing so that it covers the table, making sure that all is smooth and on-grain...then repeat the Spot-Fusing process again until all the fashion fabric yardage has been Spot-Fused. I can Spot Fuse a few yards of 60" fabric in about 5-10 minutes.

Please note that the object here is to just tack the interfacing to the fabric...NOT to fuse it completely..that comes later.

^ STEP 5 ^

After removing the Muslin+Wool "padding" from your cutting surface, carefully lay your Spot-Fused fabric yardage right side up, lay out your pattern pieces and cut them out.

^ STEP 6 ^

NOW is the time when we take our garment pieces to our "official" pressing surface (your Ironing Board or ClamShell Press), and "finish the fuse"...following the complete fusing instructions that come with your interfacing.

And this is why I Spot-Fuse before I Block-Fuse: Why bother spending time and effort completely Block-Fusing ALL the yardage, including the scraps that will be thrown in the trash after the pattern pieces are cut ? By Spot-Fusing, I can ASSURE a perfect fuse and save time by fully pressing/fusing just the actual garment pieces...AFTER the interfacing has first been "tacked down" by the Spot-Fusing :)

Tutorial--The "Knotted" Cowl

2011-11-18T12:05:00.000-05:00

A funny thing happened on the way to making my newest "hide the neck scars" Cowl tunic....I scooped the neckline way too low! Uh-oh! I had to think of a way to "fill it up" with the collar, because I didn't have enough fabric to cut another front. In fact, by the time I discovered that the neckline was too low, almost the entire garment was sewn...sigh :(
Luckily, I remembered a cowl variation that I used to teach years ago, when my family owned a fabric store...The "Knotted" Cowl.

Here is a close-up of the collar--

What looks like a "knot" at Center Front is actually a manipulated pleat, and here is how it's done....

(click on any photo to enlarge it)

From the wrong side of the garment, I located the CF of the cowl collar by folding the tunic in half. Then as shown below, I stitched a 2-inch deep pleat from the top edge of the collar (through all thicknesses) , stopping about 2" from the neckline seam. Leaving that last 2" of the pleat unsewn will mean something later on in the process--

Next, I made a quick trip to my ironing surface and gently pressed the pleat flat...yes, making a simple box pleat :) And that is just about all there is to it!

Except for some very simple folding. Below is the tunic on my form, right sides out (photo lightened for clarity).

The Cowl Collar has been folded down one time, all the way around. You can clearly see the box pleat that was made. The pin that you see is only there so I could photograph this first fold....

...because, without the pin holding the first fold of the collar up, the weight of the pleat almost "automagically" makes the Cowl Collar fold itself again at CF...giving the illusion of a "knot" as shown below--

Now, with just a little bit of tucking-under of the CF into the "dimple" (made when the bottom part of the pleat was left unsewn), there it is...a "knot" that's not a knot !

SEWING NOTES-- Fabric is a poly/lycra knit from Gorgeous Fabrics (purchased quite a while ago). Shoulder Seams and Hems are stabilized with poly/lycra Pro-Tricot Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

Interfacing at the Movies ?

2011-11-16T11:35:00.004-05:00

(I apologize for the appearance of this post...Blogger is doing it's own thing with Bold Text today, and I cannot get it corrected.....!)

Yes! The Universal Pictures Costume Department (on location in Boston) contacted my small business, Fashion Sewing Supply , for Interfacing Swatches. The tailors there loved our products...and we sold many yards to them for use in the upcoming feature film, R.I.P.D. **! Yep, that's Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp, Pro-Weft, and the Pro-Tailor line of Interfacings in those collars, plackets, waistbands, and lapels !**

Production is under way on this adventure about a team of ghostly police officers who bring unwilling souls to the underworld. R.I.P.D. comes to theaters June 28th, 2013 and stars Ryan Reynolds, Jeff Bridges, Kevin Bacon, Stephanie Szostak, Mary-Louise Parker, Marisa Miller, James Hong, Robert Knepper. The film is directed by Robert Schwentke.

I am such a geek...I am so excited!

As one of my friends said, "This will be the first time I go to see a movie for the Interfacing."
LOL!

Tutorial- The "Spiral" Cowl Collar

2011-11-05T15:23:00.000-04:00

As promised, here is a tutorial for making a cowl collar that has been "Spiraled" so that it drapes in lovely gentle folds that hide the neckline seam, rather than just "flopping down" in the front. On a recent garment, I showed you the Spiral Cowl Collar on a drapey Rayon knit fabric...this blue one is made from heavy cotton/lycra knit Velour.

There may be other ways to make a Spiral Cowl...this is how I do it...
(Click on any Photo to enlarge)

Start with any basic knit top garment that has a Jewel neckline, and sew the shoulder seams. You may then choose to lower the Front Neckline a little bit more like I did here. This is not an exact science. A rule of thumb is that the thinner the fabric, the higher the neckline can be...when a thicker knit fabric is used, It is best to scoop the neckline a little lower (unless you want a wide, high collar). When I make this cowl, I just scoop the neckline a random amount...different every time ;)

Next, cut a cowl collar that measures 12"-20" Long x the Neckline Circumference + Seam Allowance. The stretch of the knit should run the WIDTH of the collar.
WIDTH = NECKLINE CIRCUMFERENCE Then fold it Right Sides Together so that it looks like this photo --->
and stitch the long edges together, forming a "tube".

Then turn the tube right sides out, folding it in half to enclose the seam allowances. It will look like this, a "regular" cowl collar that we have all seen before :) The seam is the Center Back of the Collar, and it has 2 layers..the inner layer and outer layer.

Next we will start to "Spiral" the Cowl Collar, by sliding the INNER CB seam and the OUTER CB seam APART by 3"-6"

Now just ignore that the Center Back seam allowances are no longer laying on top of each other, and match and join the cut edges of the collar together. Match them all the way around, ignoring the way that the folded edge of the Collar will "Spiral" :) You can join the edges by pinning them, or as I usually do, by running a quick line of basting.

Now that we have "Spiraled" our Cowl Collar, we need to mark it's new Center Back,

by placing a pin 1/2 way between the seams that were spread apart, as shown below.

To attach the Spiraled Cowl Collar to the neckline of your top, start by marking both the collar and the neckline edge at their 4 "quarter-points" with pins.

Then drop the Collar inside the Neckline edge, Right Sides Together, matching the center back point of the Spiral Cowl Collar to the center back of the Neckline. Then match the center fronts, and lastly the side points. Stitch the collar to the neckline.

Turn the bodice right-sides-out, and finish sewing the rest of your top. Your collar will look something like this from the front (depending on how you arrange the folds).

And something like this from the back...

I hope you all enjoy creating your own "Spiraled Cowl" !

A classic...The Spiral Cowl Collar

2011-10-31T14:37:00.000-04:00

Yes, I sewed for myself again! Yes, it's yet another Cowl-neck tunic!

But before you think I am being redundant please remember:

It's autumn, and I live near Buffalo....brrrr
I have more than one ugly neck scar to hide.

This version features a applied cowl collar that has been "spiraled" before being sewn to the neckline. I love how a Spiral Cowl always drapes in nice even folds and covers the neck seam...rather than just "flopping down".

Do we all know how to "spiral" a cowl ? If you would like a quick tutorial, let me know in 'comments'...I'd be happy to snap some pics when I make another of this style in Stretch Velour ;)

Tutorial- Angled Ruche Cowl Collar Tunic

2011-10-30T11:22:00.006-04:00

This tunic is the latest in the "OMG Pam is Sewing For Herself !" series of garments ;) It is an original hand-drafted design of mine, and features a classic cowl collar that has been diagonally ruched.

Here is a close-up of the finished collar...

^ Click to enlarge ^

Even though I drafted the pattern for my tunic, it is very easy to do with any pattern that has an applied cowl collar, like this style from Vogue, #8670.

From cutting out the pattern pieces to wearing my top out to dinner...took less than 1.5 hours! I enjoy "almost instant" sewing-gratification, don't you?

Here is how the Angled Ruche Cowl Collar is made...

First, stitch the long seam of the cowl collar. It will look similar to this--

For my tunic, I made the cowl collar "tube" using these measurements:
(20" long) x (the circumference of the neck edge + seam allowance).

< Click to enlarge

Next the collar was turned WRONG sides together, hiding the seam allowances inside. Note--the seam is the CB of the cowl collar.

Then a diagonal line was chalked across the Front of the collar at a random angle--

^ Click to enlarge ^

Following the chalked line, loose running stitches (using black thread) were worked through only the front layers of the collar. The stitches are about 1/2" long, and the line of stitching was anchored (knotted) at the bottom edge--

^ Click to enlarge ^

Next, the thread tail at the top of the collar was pulled to make the ruche, as shown below. Then several small stitches were taken and a small knot was made to secure the gathered (ruched) collar--

^ Click to enlarge ^

To attach the collar to the bodice, both the ruched cowl collar and the neck-edge of the bodice were marked at their 4 "quarter points" with pins--

^ Click to enlarge ^

The "Angled Ruche" cowl collar was attached to the neck-edge by matching the quarter-mark points (right side of collar to right side of bodice), then aligning all the edges as they were stitched together.

All that was left to finish my "Angled Ruche Cowl" was setting the sleeves and stitching the hems :)

I will probably make another of this style soon, perhaps positioning the ruche to the side (near the shoulder seam point) of the neckline...or maybe running 2 lines of ruching vertically at Center Front...or 2 lines in a \ / shape...or.... Well, the possibilities are endless!

New Custom-Milled INTERFACING

2011-10-27T12:09:00.002-04:00

NEW styles of interfacing have arrived at Fashion Sewing Supply !

PRO-TAILOR Classic Sew-in HAIR CLOTH/CANVAS 63"

PRO-WEFT Supreme MEDIUM-weight Fusible INTERFACING 66"

PRO-TAILOR Classic Fusible HAIR CLOTH/CANVAS 68"

To see these NEW custom-milled Interfacings,

along with all of our other Professional-Grade Interfacings,
just CLICK HERE

Sewing for ME! ...and a simple Pattern "Up-Sizing" Method.

2011-10-22T12:34:00.000-04:00

I already told you about the dreadful state of my wardrobe...it feels so good to be doing something about it! Last week I made a few pairs of new pants, and this morning I finished this draped cowl Tunic...shown here with a "vintage" necklace that totally hides one of my neck scars :)

The pattern I used for this top is my absolute favorite cowl pattern, Ottobre Design (Woman) issue 02/09, #5. However, I have "up-sized" since I last made one of these, so I needed to "up-size" the pattern. I didn't need to change much in the back, but I needed to add more room in the front. So, since this is a simple pattern for knit fabrics with a cut-on facing...my options for accomplishing this could be much less 'textbook' than if I was making changes to a pattern designed for woven fabrics.

So, here is what I did..to the Front of the tunic only--

I just moved the Center Front about 1" away from the fold of the fabric, and cut straight across at the top edge, and at the hem edge. That's it!

Now I had a front garment piece that gave me the 2" of extra room I needed for the "extra" that exists on my front at the moment ;) Adding that extra width also made the cowl a little deeper...a side-effect I happen to like.

Doing a "quickie" pattern alteration like this worked for me because this is a simple knit silhouette. Standard pattern alteration methods are best when you need to Up-Size a more complicated style, especially when designed for woven fabrics.

SEWING NOTES-- Fabrics shown were purchased at www.GorgeousFabrics.com Ottobre Patterns can be found at www.OttobreDesign.com

Closet Crisis...

2011-10-17T11:20:00.000-04:00

Do you remember when I told you that I was going to sew a new shirt for Roger?

Well that was before I cleaned our closets this past weekend, and realized that he has dozens of shirts and several pairs of pants, suits, ties, etc...and saw that my closet is depressingly empty. I mean, really...the state of my wardrobe is seriously embarrassing...sigh...

So starting today I am going to make time every day for the next 2-3 weeks to sew for MYSELF, for a change! Well...I might squeeze a couple of children's outfits for Julianna and Brooklyn into the mix...but most of the "sewing action" will be for me me me me me! I have just started to lose the 30 pounds (!!!) that piled onto my body over the past year....before and after surgeries while the docs were trying to get my thyroid hormones and other stuff balanced.

Now that I am on the proper medications, I feel great, but not confident enough yet to be seen in skirts or dresses. That won't stop me though...I have lots of wonderful fabrics for pants, tops, and jackets that I can't wait to get my hands (and scissors) on! None of the garments that I sew now will be very complicated. Waistbands will need some elastic (abdominal swelling)...but that's OK, I am not wearing anything "tucked-in" now anyway. And a little creativity will be needed...there are some very ugly scars on my neck that I'd like to cover while they are still fading. I see variations of cowl-neck tunics in my immediate future ;)

My first thought was to wait to make new clothes until my figure was back to normal...but who knows how long that might take? So phooey on that! I want new clothes and I want them now!

Do I sound selfish? I hope not, because this self-indulgence feels pretty darned good ;)

I'll post what I make here...including a few tips and techniques...so stay tuned.

WTH is this ? ...and Cool New Stuff Coming!

2011-10-10T17:38:00.004-04:00

WTHeck is right...isn't it pitiful?

This quick pair of denim pants and a bag full of blouse "pieces" ready to be stitched, is all I've been able to accomplish since the sale started at Fashion Sewing Supply. I knew our elastic was popular, but I never imagined it was quite this popular: I've cut well over 900 yards in just a few days, and have a stack of orders to fill! But I am certainly not complaining, I'm truly grateful...the hordes of people after me to pay outstanding medical bills will hopefully stop pestering me...for a while ;)

But enough with the kvetching....

Exciting NEW styles of Interfacing are on the way!

I've developed some wonderful new Traditional Sew-in Hair Canvas (sometimes called Hymo) that is 50% hair and 50% wool...NO synthentics...and it's 63" wide. It is the type and quality that is sought after by the finest tailors in the world...but...we have had it steamed for you so it's ready to use right away! No pre-treatment is necessary...none-nada-zilch! It does Not shrink. At. All.

We have the same quality 50/50 Hair Canvas (68" wide) that's been specially woven to accept the application of the wonderfully flexible fusible resin we've become known for. Again, this new Fusible Hair Canvas needs no pre-treating...the yardage has been thoroughly steamed...it does NOT shrink.

Does it get better? Yes!

I've also had a fabulous new Medium-weight Fusible Weft with a unique texture milled in Charcoal black and Ivory just for Fashion Sewing Supply, ...and OMG it's TDF ! As always, we've done the pre-shrinking for you...and it's even washable after fusing it to your fabric :)

I am just waiting for the rolls to get here (5-6 days more days), before I can put them up for sale on www.FashionSewingSupply.com. Maybe I should have waited before telling you about them...but after developing and testing them for months, I am just so excited that they are almost here!

If you want to be notified when they arrive, just sign up for the Fashion Sewing Supply Newsletter (tan box on the the left of the blog page).

OK... Now I have to go catch a bite to eat, catch my breath, and then get back to work...I am so glad I love my job!

Contour Shirt with a "Set-Back" Collar...Design and Drafting Notes

2011-09-29T08:20:00.003-04:00

This shirt of my original design, is the latest made for a client who prefers a slim-cut shirt, or what is known to Tailors and Shirt-makers as a "Contour" shirt. This contour shirt is made from cotton poplin sateen shirting fabric that has a slight ombre effect. It features a banded angle-edge pocket, a cross-cut front button placket, and sleeves with wide cross-cut plackets and an inverted box pleat at the cuffs. Additionally, the cross-cut collar has been designed so that it "sets back" on the stand about 3/4" more than usual.

So...what is a "slim-cut" (contour) shirt? What it isn't is a precise set of steps and measurements that are set in stone. The specs of "slim-cut" (contour) will vary depending on the designer and who is doing the drafting. I start with with my regular shirt block with straight side seams, then I take out some of the fullness by curving the side seams. I raise the armscye point, then finish by correcting and smoothing the new curve. When the armscye point is raised, it makes the arm "hole" smaller, so a new sleeve with a smaller-circumference (slimmer cut!) needs to be drafted. I draft the sleeve with almost no ease. Yes you read that right...I draft the sleeve with no more than 1/2" of ease. It just isn't necessary. Too much ease makes for a messy flat-felled sewn finish. One other thing...I draft my Contour Shirt Back without a CB pleat.

I have not yet mentioned making slimmer/contoured changes to the shirt Front and Back at the shoulders (the yoke). That is because I already draft my regular shirt block with a natural shoulder slope and length. My standard shirt block is not loose on the upper chest/shoulder and the sleeve does not drop of the shoulder, so it needs no adjustments when I draft a contour shirt.

You may be wondering why I have not given you precise measurements, like "raise the armscye by 1/2", or "curve the side seams in by 3/4". I am not being secretive :) It is because I have no idea what the specs of your existing shirt pattern may be. You either need to copy a slim-cut shirt that you like, or make a muslin of the shirt pattern that you regularly use, and pinch out the fullness and experiment with raising the armscye point a little bit at a time.

A good menswear drafting book helps...I highly recommend this one, it has been my go-to reference since the early 80's--

Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design A Guide To Casual Clothes Edmund B Roberts and Gary Onishenko. Fairchild Publications.
The only book reference number on my copy is: Standard Book Number-- 87005-5143
So if you are interested in this book, a search at your favorite book-seller by Title and Author may be better than using the number.

For more on sleeve cap ease, don't miss this fantastic post by renown clothing industry expert, Kathleen Fasanella.

SEWING NOTES: Collar and Cuffs interfaced with PRO-WOVEN Shirt-CRISP Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply Buttons are the 40-count Designer Shirt Button Set in color "Choco-Toffee" from Fashion Sewing Supply.

Shirt with Cross-Cut Collar

2011-09-23T12:37:00.000-04:00

I just had a few moments to ~~slap~~ attempt to carefully pin this new shirt design onto my photo-wall and snap a pic before we needed to box it up for the mail-carrier who was very patiently waiting for us to get our act together ;)

So...please forgive the wrinkles ?

As crummy as the photograph is, I am very happy with this shirt. It is an original design for a very special client and features design details that I think work together nicely. The collar is cut on the cross-grain, and is shaped so that the collar stripes intersect at a right-angle with the stripes on the shirt front. The left front button placket is also cut on the cross-grain. I mirrored this detail on the extra-wide sleeve plackets and the banded pocket.

Now that this shirt is on its way to my client...it's on to the next. But I think I'll finally take some time to sew for myself this weekend! I desperately need new pants and some tops. Client work can wait until Monday, don't you think?

SEWING NOTES: Collar and Cuffs interfaced with "Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible", and "Latte" Color Designer Shirt Buttons both from www.FashionSewingSupply.com Cotton Poplin shirt fabric is from my shirting stash.

Shirt Collar Construction, a Quick Tutorial for Better Collar Points...

2011-09-19T12:24:00.000-04:00

Over the years I've found that I get the sharpest and strongest Collar points if I seal the point "area" before and after it is sewn. It not only helps to have sealed fabric when I turn the collar...my clients get a shirt collar that is far less likely to fray over time. Here's what we do in my ~Off The Cuff~ ShirtMaking studio when making collars from Cotton or Linen fabrics:

After the collar is interfaced with Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp, I saturate all 4 of the point "areas" (two each, upper and under collar) with seam sealant. Then...and this is important...to prevent any darkening or shadows from the sealant, I dry the wet sealed areas right away by pressing with a very warm iron. (Note-- Make sure the seam sealant will NOT change the color of your fabric by testing on a scrap piece before applying to your collar pieces!)

Then, after the collar is stitched...one more drop of seam sealant is applied to just the area where the stitching intersects (at the very points of the collar)...to seal the stitches. And again, it is dried quickly with a warm iron. Note-- This sealing procedure is also done on the Shirt Cuffs.

Now the collar is ready to be turned and then attached to the stand...with collar points that will endure even the harshest commercial laundry!

SEWING NOTES: Collar Interfaced with Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

New distresing technique? Umm...No....

2011-09-18T08:23:00.000-04:00

I was looking forward to finishing this shirt this morning, photographing it for you to see, and sending it to my client tomorrow bright and early tomorrow morning.

And then....

...As I was standing there looking at it, my hand cramped (from dystonia..a nasty side-effect from medication), and OMG I dropped my coffee cup !

This shirt is a total loss, and I have to start from the beginning with new fabric...sigh.

Oh well, it could have been worse...I could have spilled coffee on my hand-drafted paper pattern, or my hand might have cramped as I was walking near the sewing machines. But oh what a beautiful shirt this wudda-cudda-shudda been !

I Love Brown Boxes, don't you?

2011-09-09T14:56:00.001-04:00

Well...I love them when they are filled with gorgeous fabrics!

And they literally are GorgeousFabrics.com fabrics: the solids are bottom weight for pants, and the amazing knit prints will make beautiful new tops and tunics for me to wear this fall and winter. I'm really psyched to sew!

Of course the sewing will have to wait until all the interfacing orders piled on my desk are shipped...but sewing sure is a great incentive to work long days and get my work done!

A New W-M-Distraction!

2011-09-04T15:54:00.001-04:00

The newest addition to my "Weapons of Much Distraction"

It's a Kenmore 158-2142, a sweet power-house of a machine from my late Mother-in-law's estate. It's a very heavy all-metal machine that runs beautifully...and has the manual, all the cams, and lots of accessories. It's one of the low-shank Kenmores, so specialty feet will be easy to come by. I just love new toys...don't you?

Almost a Blue Shirt

2011-08-24T13:48:00.000-04:00

Well at least it is cut out and the pocket made....

Hopefully I will be able to finish this client's shirt and the several more I need to sew, sooner rather than later. But it's like someone turned a switch off in my brain...I seem to be sewing so slowly. I really need to get it in gear!

Tutorial- How to Make a Washable Flower Embellishment

2011-08-15T17:58:00.000-04:00

When I posted a photo of this little dress I made for Julianna, many of my readers asked how I make these washable "silk" flower embellishments. I am not a particularly crafty gal, so believe me when I say how easy it is ! There may be other ways, but this is how I make a washable "silk" flower embellishment--

This is what the silk (of course we know they are actually polyester) flowers typically look like when I buy them at the dollar store or craft store...

The first step is to pull the flower-head from the stem...

Next, Pull off the plastic back and the other plastic parts that hold all the petal layers together, and discard them...

Then carefully take the entire flower (meaning only all of the fabric petal layers) to your sewing machine, and zig-zag over the hole in the center, through all the layers of the flower. This will hold the petals in place and make the flower stronger. If you want to include the "leaves", position them under the flower layers before you zig-zag the center.

Now here is the step that will make your flower washable and colorfast :) Using "June Tailor-FRAY BLOCK", coat the outer edges of each and every petal. NOTE--I have tried to use "Fray Check", but have found that it leaves a white residue on the flower petals, so for flowers I always use "Fray-Block". The Fray-Block will seep onto the entire surface of the petals, and the flower will look shiny when it is wet....

Let your flower dry overnight, or hold it in front a fan for a few minutes to dry. When dry, it will no longer be shiny. Then choose a small button or bead to use as the "center" of your flower....

Now all you need to do is position your "now-totally-washable" flower where you want it to be on your garment, and then stitch through the button (or bead) + all the flower layers + the garment layers. I use strong upholstery thread, but several strands of regular thread will work just fine. After stitching, apply a few drops of Fray-Block on your threaded button/bead both from the top-center, and the tied-off back side to strengthen it. Alternatively, you can make this embellishment removable by just stitching the button or bead through all the flower layers, tying it off in back, and then attaching the flower to the garment with a safety pin.

I hope you will enjoy making your garments bloom!

Mojo/Sewjo is back!

2011-08-08T07:05:00.000-04:00

Thank-goodness my sewing slump has passed...I was beginning to think that this beastly hot and humid summer had finally defeated me! But this past week, just as shirt orders for clients were starting to come in, I took some time to design and draft the pattern for a new dress for Julianna, age 4. It's made from cotton coordinates from Fabric.com, and a "deconstructed then reconstructed" wire-stem silk flower from the dollar store :) If anyone is interested in how I use these silk flowers on clothing and how to make them totally washable, how to assemble them, etc...let me know in the comments section, and I'll do a quick tutorial for you :)

After I make a couple of new outfits for Julianna's little sister, it's back to shirt sewing full-time! I have some ideas for new shirt design details, and in the upcoming weeks I'll also be showing you some ways to make a regular shirt pattern into a slim-cut version.

But first, I really MUST clean my sewing studio...I have been so lazy this summer! I swear, if I haven't touched it within 24 months (that sounds so much better than 2 years, doesn't it?)...anyway...fabric not touched within 24 months? Out it goes! As one of my Facebook friends asked recently, Do you ever feel that it will take nothing less than a bulldozer when it comes to clearing your sewing spaces? Or am I the only fabric ~~hoarder~~ collector out here ?

OH NO! A Shirt I will Never Sew, because...

2011-07-30T14:30:00.001-04:00

OOPS! I totally misread Vogue 8759 pattern's online photos and diagrams!

You may now give me 10 lashes with a wet noodle...be gentle.

And I should know better...that's why I started drafting my own shirt patterns in the first place...sigh.

Once I had a chance to really examine this pattern up close and personal...well...there were some design details I was not expecting. Not they are necessarily BAD details...just different than the way most mens shirts are drafted.

I compared V8759 to my own hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt pattern with a shoulder-sleeve seam line that stops just a tiny bit below the arm/shoulder joint. This Vogue pattern has a longer shoulder seam..in other words, the sleeve will be more dropped than I prefer.

Then there is the yoke. At first glance in the online pattern catalog, it seemed to be fine..though I did notice that the front "yoke-drop" seemed a bit shallow...and that can be OK. However, until I looked at the pattern closely and measured it.... I didn't realize that the yoke seam only drops a very scant 1/4" down into the front. In other words, like a ladies blouse, the shoulder-yoke seam on this men's shirt pattern will virtually ride right along the exact shoulder line, instead of dropping/sinking down into the front the way most mens shirts do. Additionally, the overall width of the shirt body is larger than my hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt, and also larger than other printed patterns in my stash. I do realize that these are the decisions that the Vogue pattern designer made, and I respect that. But it is a look that I do not prefer.

The Vogue 8759 sleeves seem fine...narrow enough, and the armscye is as high as my own "slim-cut" draft. They are 2-piece, and the sleeve plackets are reminiscent of the way casual sport coat/blazer vents are drafted.

So...am I going to take the time and fabric to sew up a test garment of a pattern with style lines I do not like?

No.

Sure, I could re-draft the parts I do not like....but I already have slimmer-cut men's shirt patterns that I have drafted by hand...why take the time to change this one?

Should you use this pattern?

It's up to you. It is not a "classic" men's shirt...and that's not a "bad" thing. But it is not as slim-cut as the envelope photos seem to show, and the yoke is not the "standard" angle or depth...and that may be fine with you. I know that my husband Roger would not like that yoke-shoulder seam as high as it is on this pattern...he is a classic-cut shirt kind of guy. I can design, draft, and sew a shirt with a narrow body for him, and add design details like funky pockets, angled seams, and even bias cut sleeve hem bands...but a yoke that rides that high on the shoulder? For Roger? No. And I cannot use this pattern for my clients, because it is a commercial pattern (and besides, I really do not like that high shoulder). Your man might be different...in fact he probably is! Mine is very picky about yoke depths and things like that because he happens to be married to a classically trained Shirtmaker who has strong likes and dislikes..and opines about them often ;)

So while this pattern is not "horrible"...I am not happy with it, so I am not going to use my time to make it. And please remember...this is just my opinion, for what it's worth. Your opinion about these things are probably quite different than mine...as they should be...because we all have different tastes.

Next Up...the New Vogue Shirt Pattern!

2011-07-29T11:19:00.001-04:00

I finally received this pattern and plan to start sewing the test-garment (the muslin) this weekend.

Since this will just be a test of the pattern, I will not use fine seam finishes for this first version of this shirt. After stitching, the seams will be pressed then serged and topstitched. My goal is to evaluate the cut and fit of this pattern. However, I will be using very nice fabric...this beautiful navy and dark red gingham cotton shirting bought from Gorgeous Fabrics.com quite a while ago. Why high-quality fabric, but short-cut seam finishes? Well...it is just my preference to always work with nice fabric. After all, this fitting garment might very well may end up being what I call "weekend-wearable", if not for my "test-model" (otherwise known as my dear husband Roger), then for one of my friends. And anyway...I bought enough of this fabric for several shirts :)

So...stay tuned. Barring any emergencies, I will update you with my progress of important and/or tricky parts along the way, including any "surprises"...good or not-so-good !

Side note-- Thank you all for the get-well wishes via facebook for my Mother-in-Law...who was recently in an awful head-on collision auto accident and is still in the Trauma Intensive Care Unit.

McCalls 6354...in Navy Batik

2011-07-25T17:30:00.000-04:00

A new blouse for Jill in Blue Batik :)

Stitching up this pattern is so fast and easy!

I did make a pattern modification.

As I hope you can see, I split the cut-on
cap sleeve to give it some movement.
I also added a self-fabric bow at the CF waist to give the appearance of a drawstring.

And since she really liked the first one I made from this bright flowery cotton lawn I decided to make another. I hope she likes it in Blue Batik just as much!

Redesign + Pattern Drafting + Sewing = A New Blouse

2011-07-21T08:02:00.000-04:00

What do you do when your dearest "Daughter-from-another-Mother" asks you to fix a faded plaid RTW blouse she loves, but that's seen better days and has never fit right in the first place?

Well...here's what I did: After determining that the tight back yoke could not be altered, I took a good look at the blouse, drafted a pattern by hand, and made her a new one :)

[Side note--Jill loves batik, so I unearthed a piece that has been aging in my stash for a long time.]

Well, to be precise I made a "fitting muslin", that I hope will be wearable. Yes...sigh...I know there is really no such thing as a wearable muslin (Gorgeous Ann, I felt you cringe, lol). However I expect she will at least be able to wear this around the house while she plays with her 2 little girls.

And I'll make her a few more from different fabrics, including some contemporary plaids from which I will cut the yokes and pockets on the bias :)

Oh..one more thing..... the moment my back was turned while I was moving things around in my studio...my forms decided to get a little frisky...It must be the heat, they are usually much better behaved ;)

LOL, Get a Room!

McCalls 6354...Summertime, and the Sewing is Easy

2011-07-17T14:13:00.001-04:00

I made this top for my lovely 26-year old "adopted" daughter Jill,

and I am thrilled with how it turned out!

The pattern is McCalls 6354...and the fabric is soft Cotton Lawn.

It is super-simple and oh so fast to make...always a plus if your sewing studio is not air-conditioned :)

Fabric choice is important with this style...too stiff and it could look like a "scrub top". A soft fabric is the way to go with this one, in my opinion.

The pattern envelope photo makes the shoulder line appear curved, when in fact it is quite straight. That's not a problem, but I could tell Jill wasn't thrilled about the sleeves when I made and fitted a muslin of the style on her last week.

So I made some minor design changes. I chose to bind the cross-over neckline, rather than use the bias-tape-as-facing method described in the pattern instructions, and I added a bias-tube bow at the CF waist to give the illusion of a drawstring. Also, I "split" the cap sleeve at the shoulder seam by about 2 inches, so that it would flutter a little bit when worn. Here's a close-up--

Yes, I could have curved the shoulder seam, but that would have meant fitting another muslin...and I wanted to keep this top fast and easy.

Will I make this top again? You bet!
The next one will be for me...in soft, floaty, washed silk dupionni :)

Giveaway WINNERS !

2011-07-16T11:53:00.000-04:00

Thanks to all who enetered the Giveaway of products from

www.FashionSewingSupply.com

Because of the great response

to this Giveaway,

I decided to draw 4 winners !

And they are...

Faye Lewis
Kai Jones, Happy Valley OR
Alethia H, Augusta
Melissa F, London

Will the four of you please send an email to me at
OffTheCuffStyle "at" Yahoo "dot" com

with your Full Name and Shipping Address ? ...and I'll get your goodies shipped to you as soon as possible! Thanks, ~Pam

V8759...A New Vogue MEN's SHIRT Pattern !

2011-07-12T10:28:00.002-04:00

I am so pleased that Vogue has decided to introduce a new mens shirt pattern! And at first glance, it looks like a winner. I have ordered it, and will make it up as soon as it gets here...but in the meantime, here are my first impressions of Vogue 8759--

As a shirtmaker, the first things I noticed about this shirt are the slim sleeves, the over-all slim cut delivered by curved side seams, and shoulders that are not dropped. That's the good news. But the design has alot of details going on in the back, and not much happening in the front (see line drawings below). That unbalance can be easily changed by adding another pocket, or adding a separate front button placket rather than the "French" front placket shown. Remember, that's just my opinion...many men prefer a very "clean" shirt front.

Here is the back view--

Details to notice are back seams instead of pleats, and that the back yoke appears neither too narrow or too wide. A yoke that is too narrow causes a shirt to ride-up in back when the wearer is seated, and a yoke that is too wide (deep) looks boxy gives a shirt a sloppy look.

Here are the pattern line drawings--

Something interesting to note is the back sleeve seam that incorporates the placket..here's a closer view--

I am going to reserve comment until I see how (or if) the inside of the placket is clean-finished.

So, as soon as the pattern arrives, I'll stitch it up and give you my thoughts along the way :)

Pam takes a break...and oh yeah, New Buttons have arrived!

2011-07-08T09:24:00.000-04:00

It's time for me to take a break from Blogging for a little while. After sewing 9 identical white shirts with many design details over a span of a few very long days, I need some time off from the sewing machines. You know I'll be back soon....but in the meantime, I'll be enjoying some much needed rest and relaxation from one of my jobs.

^ Click photo to Enlarge ^

Which brings me to my second job as the "Empress of Interfacing" {Big GRIN} at Fashion Sewing Supply. New "Buttons-by-the-Scoop" are here and ON SALE :) More colors and styles have been added to both the light and dark assortments of our shirt/blouse size designer buttons. The scoops are generous...well over 150-160+ buttons per scoop. They are ON SALE for a limited time...and they ship at a low price too! Find them in the Designer Buttons Category.

One last thing...  We've never had a mid-summer Interfacing Sale but are considering having one this year.

If you want to be sure not to miss it, and any future sales...be sure to sign up for our Fashion Sewing Supply newsletter, in the tan box to the left. And don't worry...we only send our newsletters 4-6 times each YEAR, and you can "opt-out" at any time ;)

Sometimes I need Ruffles...

2011-06-28T17:57:00.001-04:00

I love my profession as a ShirtMaker...I truly do. But sometimes I just need to take a break to sew something whimsical. This dress is one of my original designs...drafted by hand. It is a simple design, so the drafting was fast, fun, and easy...and the sewing was a delight. Especially since it is for a little girl who is as sweet as can be!

I made these dresses for 4-year old Julianna, who like her little sister Brooklyn are like "adopted grand-daughters" to me :) Recently when I gave her some shorts and tops I had made for her, she politely asked, "Mrs. Pam, will you please make me some more pretty dresses?" That little voice went straight to my heart, and the result is the dress you see above, and the one below...

The bright and happy little dress was made with a pattern from the summer 2011 issue of Ottobre Design. I "tweaked" the design a little bit to suit my mood at the moment I was cutting it out...adding a pocket and making the skirt fuller by adding a piece of coordinating fabric.

Next, between sewing shirts for my clients, and filling orders for interfacing...I need to make some new "pretties" for Julianna's little sister, and something nice for their mommy too! And just maybe I'll have a little time left to sew for myself...

Sewing Notes: Both dresses are made from lightweight 100% cotton fabrics. Bodice facings are interfaced with "ProSheer Elegance" Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

TUTORIAL...How to Sew a "Designer" Elasticated Casing

2011-06-12T14:26:00.000-04:00

This blouse in soft cotton batik is one that I made from

this HotPatterns design...

This style can either be made with neck and sleeve bindings, or elasticated casings. I chose to make it with casings because I think it may be more comfortable in hot weather.

Making a casing for elastic is certainly one of our easier sewing tasks. Turn, stitch, insert elastic...done! Sewn this conventional way, we end up with a perfectly acceptable casing that looks something like the photo below, after the elastic is inserted. Fine...yet a little "bubbly and wobbly"...but something we have come to accept with elasticated casings.

However, by taking one additional construction step, you can achieve a "designer" look to an elastic casing garment. A very simple step that will result in a flat, even-edge casing every time, like the one in the finished garment shown....here is a close-up photo--

So what's that extra construction step? Edge-stitching!

After the casing is folded to the wrong side of the garment and stitched along the BOTTOM edge (leaving an opening to later insert the elastic, of course)....All that we need to do next to lend that "designer touch" is to edge-stitch the TOP fold of the casing...all the way around, as shown below--

By taking this one easy extra step, our casings lose the bubbles,

and gain some designer panache!

Rush Order Shirts....4 down, 2 to go!

2011-06-10T07:00:00.000-04:00

Here are a couple of quick pics of 2 of the 6 rush order shirts that need to be sent to my clients by Saturday. I managed to get 4 of them shipped yesterday, and I have been given an extension until Monday for the others if I need it...and with my other business obligations, I probably will ;) Anyway, please bear in mind that these pics were snapped in a hurry, right before they were due to be shipped.... Am I making excuses for crummy photos? Yes, lol.

This shirt, hastily folded in half and "pin draped" on my photo wall, is made from light-weight textured cotton/linen gauze. Please do not think I am losing my mind or skills... it's supposed to look rumpled and crumpled :) I was going for the "Couture Limp Dishcloth" look, and I think I hit the mark with this one! ;)

I had just enough time to get this batik shirt on my "man-form" and snap a pic before I needed to get it folded, packed and on its way. I just love the color of this one...don't you? It reminds me of a tropical sea.

SEWING NOTES-- Patterns are original hand-drafted designs. Pro-Sheer Elegance Interfacing used on the gauze shirt, Pro-Woven Shirt-Crisp Interfacing and Coconut Buttons used on the cotton batik shirt.
Interfacing and Buttons are from Fashion Sewing Supply.

Not quite panic time...yet.

2011-06-07T18:37:00.000-04:00

YIKES what a day this has been... This morning I was under a deadline to sew 5 shirts for my clients by Thursday! Since then one client has sweet-talked me into adding another shirt (or 2 if I have time, haha) to his order...but that the extra shirts can wait to be shipped a little later. So I have not hit the panic button...yet...not quite yet....

Fabrics chosen and pre-washed twice? Check!
Hand-drafted Patterns located and tweaked to new measurements? Check!
"Shirt Crisp" Interfacing ready? Check!
Iced Tea chilling for my late night break? Check!

The 2 tailors on my staff who help with rush orders like these? On Vacation!

I sincerely hope they are having a great time...... :)

SEWING NOTES-- Special Shirt-Interfacing from FashionSewingSupply.com, Fabrics from Gorgeous Fabrics, Fabric.com, and Philips-Boyne.

Some sewing going on...

2011-06-02T08:41:00.000-04:00

Sometimes, when I am in the midst of meticulous sewing of custom shirts for my clients...I need a break. So I steal a bit of time from my schedule to whip up some cute clothes for the 2 little girls in my life, Julianna and Brooklyn. This set features slightly re-designed versions of Ottobre Patterns from Issue 3/2009...for Brooklyn, age 21 months. Cotton/lycra knit was used for the cropped leggings, and Kaffe Fasset cotton fabric was used for the Tunic.

I really like the color combinations...but now wonder if it might be too "sophisticated" for a toddler.

What do you think?

TUTORIAL-- Gathered or Puffed Sleeves? It's All About the Seam Allowances!

2011-05-30T06:00:00.008-04:00

^ Click on the photo to see detail. To return here, click your browser's "Back" arrow/button ^

The HotPatterns Riviera AnnisetteTop is one of my favorite styles from the HotPatterns collection, and a perfect style to demonstrate how manipulating the shoulder seam allowances can change the look of a garment with a gathered sleeve. This is a revised post of one first published here in 2009...for my newer blog followers or those who may have missed it the first time :)

Take a close look at the blue top, above. It has gathered sleeve caps that are very subtle. When you make a top, dress or blouse with sleeve cap gathers, you have a choice to make them "puffed" or simply gathered into soft folds. It's all about the direction the sleeve cap seam allowances are pressed.

When the seam allowances are pressed towards the sleeve, you have puffy sleeves like the example to the right.

Pressing the seam allowances towards the "body" (neckline) of the garment, results in sleeve cap gathers that lay "flatter", and present more subtle folds. It's a small detail, but one that is usually kinder to a mature figure.

Directing the seam allowances of gathers one way or the other can make a difference in other areas of a garment. For instance, pressing the seam allowance of a gathered skirt of a dress "up" towards the bodice will encourage the gathers to lay more flat, in smooth folds. Pressing those same gathers "down" (towards the hem) , will encourage the gathers to puff-up. It's all about the look you prefer...and now you know you have a choice :)

Sewing Notes: Yoke is interfaced with PRO-TRICOT DELUXE Fusible Interfacing from ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~

MUST SEE--- Bren's Mens Shirt Fitting Series!

2011-05-21T19:35:00.001-04:00

A Big THANK YOU going out to Bren of Brensan Studios Patterns

for her wonderful 7-part Men's Shirt Fitting Series on her blog...click here This is something I have been meaning to do for ages, but Bren's husband is much more cooperative than mine ;) The series is chock full of professional information that is rarely shared...including the fine details of fitting a mens shirt muslin and then tranferring those changes to the pattern. Please do not forget to leave her some comments...she deserves them! This series is a gem and must have taken her many hours to photograph and share.

And...she also tells us she is busy designing a series of new SHIRT PATTERNS for MEN --- YAY!

I have no affiliation with Bren other than being an admiring colleague...but I do highly recommend the extensive line of Women's Shirt and other Patterns she has already designed :) Look beyond the bright prints and cottons if that isn't your thing...the "bones" of her patterns are great...and can be mixed and matched... how fabulous!

HAPPY DANCE--- FSS is back!

2011-05-11T16:53:00.000-04:00

Our Official E-Commerce Website---> www.FahionSewingSupply.com

(for our United States Customers)

is Back Online !

International Customers...to shop for our products, please click HERE

Mind Your Own BeesWax :)

2011-05-07T10:44:00.000-04:00

Oh my gosh, isn't it annoying when your once smooth cake of beeswax gets all crumbly, scarred, and difficult to use? Well here was my poor pitiful cake of beeswax before I fixed it today---

Luckily it is fast and easy to get a cake of beeswax nice and smooth again. First, lay a piece of baker's parchment paper or aluminum foil on top of your ironing board. Next, place your crumbling beeswax on top of the parchment paper (or foil). Now with a hot steam iron...hold the iron above that poor pitiful crumbling wax, and give it a few good shots of steam...being careful not to actually touch the wax with your iron.

Here is my nice smooth beeswax cake after steaming. Yes, some of the wax will melt and you will lose a bit...but it sure beats running your thread through a scarred cake of wax and dealing with the crumbs !

(Oops! Did you get some wax on the bottom of your iron? Don't worry, just heat the iron and rub the sole-plate over some scrap 100% cotton fabric. The wax will melt into the fabric :)

If you think this little tip is useful, please take a moment and vote for me by clicking the black and red box (located to the left)...thanks !

A fun Dress for a Lovely Little Girl...

2011-05-03T13:48:00.001-04:00

It was so much much fun to sew this dress for my "adopted grand-daughter" Julianna, age 4.

I modified an Ottobre Design pattern from the 01/09 issue to make this style.

And if spring ever arrives here near Buffalo NY, she'll be able to wear it without a top and leggings !

TUTORIAL-- Smooth Sleeve Caps Every Time!

2011-05-01T09:58:00.001-04:00

One of the goals of every Shirt-Maker is to achieve perfectly smooth sleeve caps. I am quite pleased with this one...the join between cap and shoulder is so smooth it is almost invisible despite being felled (of course the perfectly matching thread and fabric print helps...but even so :)

When I draft my own patterns I draft the sleeve with minimal ease or no ease at all, depending on the style of the shirt. So on my custom drafts, I have little problem getting my caps nice and smooth. However, the shirt above was made with a vintage vogue pattern...and the sleeve had considerable cap ease. But regardless of the amount of ease I have to deal with, I always prepare the cap and its seam allowances in the following very simple way in order to make felling (or serging) the seam a happy experience!

Below is a photo of the sleeve (on top) just after it was set into the armscye--

You can easily see the wavy ease in the sleeve cap seam allowance.

*In this and the photos that follow, the sleeve is always shown on top.*

Have you ever sewn a shirt sleeve, eased it perfectly, yet ended up with a slight "bubble" or "dip" on the sleeve (just below the shoulder seam) of your finished shirt? That is because the ease extends at least an inch into the sleeve itself, beyond just the allowances.

Luckily, the fix is an easy one!

We just need to "steam shrink and flatten" the sleeve seam allowance and sleeve cap ease. I do this by steam-pressing along the entire sewn sleeve seam allowance. The tip of my iron leads the way, but I let 1/2 the width of the iron's sole plate follow behind to finish the job as I go along. This both shrinks the ease and flattens the entire cap at the same time. We would never do this when tailoring a jacket, but in my opinion it is essential when tailoring a shirt.

And below you see the nicely flattened seam allowances and nearby sleeve cap--

The fold you see is not excess ease, it is the fold that naturally forms on the wrong side of the shirt because a rounded (convex curve) sleeve cap has been sewn to a scooped (concave curve) armsyce.

So now the flat and even sleeve seam allowances are easily manageable and ready to be felled (as I do in my higher-priced casual shirts), or "Serged then Topstitched" (as I do in my lower-priced casual shirts).

Vintage Vogue Men's Batik Shirt

2011-04-25T13:42:00.005-04:00

(please note--the sleeves are the same length..I took the photo at a slight angle...oops!)

Roger is taking a trip soon because his daughter is graduating from Florida Gulf Coast University...and he needs a few new comfortable shirts. I think This batik fabric and vintage Vogue Pattern #9366, make a very fashionable match!

Washable wood buttons from Fashion Sewing Supply finish the casual look of this shirt, as does the Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing that has the perfect hand for this smooth lightweight cotton batik.

In case you are wondering...no...I will not be making him a pair of short-shorts as shown on the pattern envelope, LOL ! Something for which I am sure his daughter will be grateful ;)

However, I will be writing a tutorial soon about how to professionally handle sleeve cap ease specifically on shirt sleeves after they have been set (sewn)...so stay tuned.

Interesting site-- Pattern Drafting for Stretch Fabrics

2011-04-20T09:20:00.000-04:00

Just FYI! You might already know about this site....

www.PatternSchool.com

But if you do not...It's interesting free information if you need or want to draft or tweak close fitting "stretch fabric" pattern blocks for men women and children.

Yay! NEW "Shirt-Crisp" INTERFACINGS are here!

2011-04-16T11:14:00.002-04:00

You've been asking us to make these special types of interfacings available to you, and after finally finding a mill willing to make them

according to my very picky standards...they are here!

After extensive testing in our own busy ShirtMaking Studio, we are convinced that our NEW Pro-Woven SHIRT CRISP Fusible Interfacing and our NEW Pro-Woven SUPER CRISP Fusible Interfacing are the best woven fusible interfacings available anywhere! Exclusive to Fashion Sewing Supply, these fantastic NEW fusible interfacings were specially made to produce perfectly CRISP shirt collars and cuffs, and can also be used to strengthen cotton quilting fabrics when making purses.

They Absolutely DO NOT SHRINK and are WASHABLE on warm-to-hot settings AFTER FUSING TO FABRIC !

If you want interfacing for shirt collars and cuffs that look just like the expensive designer shirts you see in stores...THIS IS IT!

The difference between our Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp and Super Crisp Fusible Interfacing and ordinary woven fusible interfacing is that the base fabric is steamed to eliminate shrinkage before the special fusing adhesive is carefully applied to give full and even coverage. These will be the best woven fusible interfacings for shirts (and other applications) that you have ever used!

Get all the details and the Special Introductory Prices HERE at Fashion Sewing Supply.

And I'll be back to sewing and posting tutorials as soon as my docs allow me to do more activity...like digging through my fabric stash ;) xox~Pam

Sewing Tutorial- "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

2011-03-25T11:46:00.001-04:00

Recently I made this custom shirt for one of my clients from light-weight distressed denim. It is one of my original designs and features pin-tucks on the pocket and right front...and special "Cuffed-Hems" on the sleeves (see Tutorial below). The Coconut Shell Buttons and Pro-Weft Interfacing used on this shirt are from www.FashionSewingSupply.

How to make a "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

For an approximately 1" finished Cuffed-Hem, you only need to make one simple change to your sleeve pattern. Just change the hem allowance to 2.25 inches (2-1/4"), as shown in this sample pattern.

After cutting out your sleeve, turn the bottom (hem edge) of the sleeve to the Wrong side by 1-1/8", then turn it again by the same amount (1-1/8"), then Press. All we are doing here is "turning it twice to the wrong side" by 1-1/8" each time...just as if we were making a double hem. This photo shows the bottom edge turned twice. The sleeve is shown photographed from the side so that you can see the folds--

When the folds have been pressed completely flat, take your sleeve to the sewing machine.

Now Top-Stitch along the Bottom Edge about 1/4", through all the layers. After stitching, this is what the sleeve will look like from the Wrong Side--

To finish the Cuffed-Hem, turn down the top fold (the one that was NOT stitched) and press.

Here is what the finished Cuffed-Hem Sleeve looks like from the right side and the wrong side. The wrong side will have the raw edge enclosed, and the right side will have the Cuffed "Lip" that was formed when you stitched it!

BE LINEN...a fascinating short film....

2011-03-18T07:34:00.000-04:00

...with wonderfully beautiful photography that follows this amazing fiber

from field to fabric to fashion. I will never take linen for granted again.

BE LINEN MOVIE from Benoit MILLOT on Vimeo.

BIG Thanks to Vogue Patterns Magazine !

2011-03-15T10:59:00.000-04:00

What an honor it is for my business,

Fashion Sewing Supply, to be featured in the current (April/May 2011) issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine!

An editor contacted me several weeks ago to let me know that my business had been chosen to be among 4 featured in the "Web Watch" Editorial. No, it's not an advertisement...they found us worthy of inclusion

...and I am beyond thrilled!

Here's what they had to say....

Their Favorite Shirt...by the dozen!

2011-03-14T09:38:00.000-04:00

This shirt style is one of my original designs, and continues to be the most requested style by my clients.

I have clients who order this "Island Shirt" by the dozen...but this weekend I only made 3, including this one from distressed white linen. It has a nice trim fit, and looks good made from many different fabrics. I always enjoy making this style...it is my very favorite :)

A Light and Breezy Shirt, on it's way to Belize...

2011-03-13T14:19:00.000-04:00

Made from very lightweight Oxford Cloth, this shirt was designed for one of my clients. Since he lives in the tropics and does most of his business poolside, he wanted a shirt that was loose and breezy with "just a little hint of businessman". That is why I chose the lightweight oxford stripe, but used it in a very casual way.

I just sent him this photo, and I am happy to say that he likes it ! And he wants a few more in other colors :)

On another note, my husband Roger saw this shirt and wants a similar one to wear to his daughter's graduation from Florida Gulf Coast University. Good thing he doesn't need it until the end of April...because I have a list of things to sew for myself over the next few weeks :)

Now back to the machines...more shirts for clients to sew...

A Shirt in Pieces...

2011-03-12T11:10:00.000-05:00

There actually has been some sewing going on around here :)

My clients want new custom shirts, ASAP!

Here is what is on the machine right now...please pardon my hasty pinning of the pieces on my photo-wall. Later today it will be a short sleeve shirt with a contrast under-placket, piped pocket, and contrast inner band collar. I designed and drafted the pattern by hand.

Buttons were quickly placed on the left front of this green striped oxford cloth shirt. Of course they will actually be sewn onto the right contrast under-placket...but I wanted to preview my selection where they will be seen when the shirt is "on the body". I am quite pleased with the color and style of the buttons I decided to use...one of our new Italian Designer Shirt Button styles, color-Latte, from Fashion Sewing Supply.

So stay tuned for a photo of the finished shirt, I should have it posted here first thing tomorrow :)

Computer Woes :(

2011-03-01T09:26:00.000-05:00

Hi everyone !

There are some things in life that just happen...sigh. Over the weekend my 7 year old computer went "poof"! It died and I lost everything that wasn't backed up. And what was backed up..well...some of it is not compatible with Windows 7...like blog posts I had prepared off-line with Microsoft Works...which doesn't exist on the new system I had to rush out and buy this past Sunday.

So bear with me as I go through some OMG days trying to get new blog posts and photos that were saved to disk to download on my new system..sigh..sigh...sigh.

OK..time for another phone convo with the "Geek Squad" !

Button, Button, Who Has New Shirt Buttons?

2011-02-18T11:56:00.000-05:00

WE DO !

NEW Designer Shirt Button Sets have just arrived at FASHION SEWING SUPPLY

We are proud to be able to offer you these fabulous shirt buttons that come to us straight from a famous Italian designer’s workroom…at a great low price !
We photographed the buttons on different colored background fabrics to highlight their versatility. Remember…Yes, you CAN use contrasting buttons on shirts and blouses…just like the top designers do !
Each 40-button set contains:

30 Buttons for Shirt Fronts, size 7/16" (use a 1/2" buttonhole)
10 matching Buttons for Sleeve Plackets and/or Button-down Collars, size 5/16" (use a 1/4" buttonhole)
4 Round Felt “button backers” for use behind Collar Buttons to stabilize the fabric.

And before I forget... many new styles and colors have been added to our popular Shirt/Blouse bulk "Buttons-by-The-Scoop" assortments too!

Please visit FASHION SEWING SUPPLY to see the new bulk shirt buttons

and all the NEW Designer Shirt Button Sets.

TUTORIAL-- Fast and Fabulous Fabric Loops!

2011-02-11T15:13:00.000-05:00

I do not have much time to sew these days, but I do have time to show you how I make "fabric loops"...for functional purposes. There is such a loop included in the Colette Patterns Negroni Shirt.

There are similar methods for making a length of tube to use for multiple buttons, however please note that this tutorial shows how I make a single flat loop for the specific purpose of replacing a buttonhole at the very top of a Convertible Collar shirt.

~Click Photos to enlarge...to return to blog, click your browser's Back Button~

To make a single button loop, first start by cutting a strip of fabric on the bias that is about 1" wide and about 3" long. Then as shown above, fold it in half width-wise (RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER) and "finger press" along the folded edge to make a center crease.

Now at your machine, pull out a long length of both the bobbin and top thread. As shown above, leave a loop of both thread tails behind the presser foot. Then lay the rest of the pulled thread tails along the inner "valley" of the fold you made in the fabric strip. What we are doing here is making our own "tool" out of thread, that we will later use as a handle to easily turn our loop!

Fold the bias strip in half, enclosing the thread tails as shown above. Loosen the top tension of your machine a little bit (if it is set at 5 for instance, loosen to 4.5).... then stitch a 1/4" seam.

The photo above shows what your stitched bias strip will look like after it is removed from the machine.

Note that the thread tails are attached at one end of the seam, but loose inside the fold of the strip.

Now grasp the UNATTACHED thread tails, and start to gently pull them...turning your sewn bias strip right sides out. Continue pulling those thread "handles" and turning the tube until all the seam allowances are inside.

Then take your turned strip to your pressing surface and press it flat, with the seam along one edge, as shown above.

Now we are going to "set" the bias and make our turned strip narrow and neat. While still at your pressing surface, spray your flattened strip on both sides with some plain water until it is quite damp. Then pick it up, holding the short edges, one in each hand...and pull. Pull hard, so that the bias strip stretches, lengthens, and becomes more narrow. Then cover with a press cloth, and press the stretched strip until it is dry. It will look something like this--

Now trim the ends, cut to the desired size, form your loop, and insert according to the pattern instructions.

TUTORIAL-- Clean-Finished No Bulk Facing (Shown on the Negroni Shirt)

2011-01-28T09:30:00.002-05:00

Here's a "Custom Turn" on a technique many of you may already use to finish the outside edge of a facing. In this short tutorial I am demonstrating this method on the front facing of the Negroni Camp Shirt Pattern.

^ STEP 1 ^

The photo above shows the facing pattern cut out as usual on the CF edge (to the right), BUT cut about 1/8" wider on the curved outer edge (the edge my scissors are "pointing" to).

^ STEPS 2 & 3 ^

Next cut out your interfacing using THE CUT OUT FABRIC FACING PIECE for the INTERFACING "PATTERN" (I am using one of my custom-milled interfacings, Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply).

Then, place the Interfacing and Fabric Facing piece RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (the fusible side of the interfacing will be "up"), and stitch them together with an 1/8" seam along the curved edge. If you click the photo above to enlarge it, this stitching is more visible.

^ STEP 4 ^

Now, open up (separate the 2 layers), and move the piece to your pressing surface.

^ STEP 5 ^

At your pressing surface, turn the interfacing to the wrong side, WRAPPING the interfacing OVER and AROUND THE NARROW SEAM, enclosing the seam allowances. Now fuse the interfacing according to the instructions. Please note--The interfacing will not reach the long straight CF edge of the facing..and this is a good thing...no added bulk in that seam when it is later sewn !

The photo above shows the completed "Clean Finish" of this facing.

Usually when the basic method of this technique is used, the allowances of that little seam are completely turned to the wrong side, then the interfacing is fused to hold them down. However, when the seam-allowances are WRAPPED by the interfacing, they are not only clean finished, but thin and bulk-free. And the added bonus is that when the shirt is completely sewn, it will look like flat piping has been sewn to the facing edge. This is such a nice custom look without the bulk that would transfer to the right side as a wrinkle/ridge every time the shirt is pressed !

TUTORIAL--- Spot-Fusing vs. Block-Fusing Interfacing, a Modern Tailor's Method

2011-01-25T11:05:00.003-05:00

Block Fusing is a method that many modern tailors and home-sewists use to apply interfacing to fashion fabric yardage before the pattern pieces are cut out. Have you ever struggled keeping the interfacing layer from slipping off-grain as you attempt to fuse it to your fabric yardage? Next time, try this fast, easy, and accurate method that I learned from a Master Tailor, called "SPOT-FUSING"...And it can be done right on your cutting table!

^ STEP 1 ^

^ STEP 2 ^

^ STEP 3 ^

^ STEP 4 ^

Please note that the object here is to just tack the interfacing to the fabric...NOT to fuse it completely..that comes later.

^ STEP 5 ^

After removing the Muslin+Wool "padding" from your cutting surface, carefully lay your Spot-Fused fabric yardage right side up, lay out your pattern pieces and cut them out.

^ STEP 6 ^

And this is why I Spot-Fuse before I Block-Fuse: Why bother spending time and effort completely fusing ALL the yardage, including the scraps that will be thrown in the trash after the pattern pieces are cut ? By Spot-Fusing, I can ASSURE a perfect fuse and save time by fully pressing/fusing just the actual garment pieces...AFTER the interfacing has first been "tacked down" by the Spot-Fusing :)

An Old ClamShell Press Finds a Home...

2011-01-23T19:57:00.001-05:00

How cool is this? Look what Roger found in his friend's attic, free for the taking....

An Elna Press, at least 10 years old and only used about ten times ! And not just any press, but one with a Sleeve Board ! Oh happy day ! I missed my commercial steam press so much when it died last year.
But this one will be a dandy stand-in until I can acquire another commercial press.

As you may have deduced by now, my life is not particularly exciting since I am blogging about a Press...But oh how I enjoy sewing "stuff", especially when it's free...and has cool features :)
The wide pressing "bed" slides back to reveal the sleeve board, then the the sleeve board slides up and back so that it can come into contact with the heated part of the press--

Now that is just too cool...no pun intended :) And will save me so much time when pressing shirts, especially the final press before one of my custom shirts gets shipped to a client !

And speaking of shirts...as I promised in a post way back on December 13, I will finally be starting to sew my version of the Collette Patterns Negroni Shirt later this week. Though the pattern comes with an excellent set of instructions, I will be refining some of the steps along the way for a more professional finish. I'll snap some pics along the way, so you can see what I am dong a bit differently, and why...so stay tuned.

Vintage Pattern Enabler Alert !

2011-01-17T09:56:00.001-05:00

I have kept quiet about this new Etsy Vintage Pattern store long enough to scope out several pattern that I wanted for myself...so now I'll share ;) CoudreMode Vintage Patterns!

Phyllis, the shop owner, is a third generation sewist, (and one of the original Sewing Divas) now selling many of the patterns from her own personal collection and those of her mother and Grandmother. There are patterns in her shop dating from the 30's to the 80's....really lovely styles!
(NAYY...though I do "know" Phyllis as a 'sewing friend'..and am a big fan of her sewing and fashion blog, CoudreMODE ).

TUTORIAL- Design and Sew a Shirt with Bias Pleats !

2011-01-08T12:08:00.002-05:00

This Distressed denim shirt features deep bias pleats

on the sleeves and pocket. Variations of this design have become favorites of many of my clients over the past year. The original blog post about this design detail was among my most popular. So with a few shirt-sew-along's going on at other blogs these days...I thought it was a good time

to offer it again, with a few revisions.

---------------------

SEWING NOTES: This shirt is interfaced with PRO-WEFT Fusible,
a professional quality interfacing found exclusively at
 ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ 

____________________________

Adding a pleat to any pattern piece is very easy
when you use this method:

1. Using a large piece of any pattern paper you like, make an even fold across it's width (this will be the upper side of the pleat). Then move the entire folded edge an even distance away from the first, and fold again (this will be the under-side of the pleat). I moved the first fold over by 1.25", to form a 1.25" pleat in the paper. Play with a small piece of scrap paper, if my written explanation is less than clear ;) It's easy, all we are doing is folding a pleat in a piece of pattern paper.

2. Next, just place your pattern piece on top of the pleated paper, with the pleat where you want it to be on your garment. In this case, I chose the sleeve piece pattern and placed it so that the pleat (the pre-folded paper) would be on the bias, then I cut out my "new" sleeve pattern.

3. This is what my sleeve looked like cut from the fabric. I took the photo after the upper pleat fold was pressed, so you could more easily see how the pleat is formed
.

4. This photo (#4) shows the completed pleat, with the folds edge-stitched. In this photo, as viewed from the right side, only the upper fold's edge-stitching is visible. The under-fold (back side) of the pleat is also edge-stitched. I like to edge-stitch pleats on shirts that I design not only because it is a nice decorative detail, but also because it makes pressing the shirt much easier after it has been laundered.

-------------------------

How to Control a Pleat...Invisibly !

When there is a bias or horizontal pleat on a garment, the weight of the fabric below the pleat will tend to pull it down, and the pleat will sag and gape open. When the pleats are small and/or the fabric is lightweight, this is often not a problem. However, with pleat depths of one inch or more on medium or heavy fabric, this sagging can be quite an ugly problem. But as you can see in the photo of the finished shirt (above), the pleat is not gaping or sagging. That is because the pleats have been "controlled", by span-stitching done on the under-fold (back side), as shown in this next photo--

To control this bias pleat, I made a series of 3 wide "V" shaped stitch spans on the under-pleat fold (that I highlighted in blue pencil so that you can more easily see them). Each extend from the edge of the under-pleat fold to within 1/4" of the upper pleat fold. While it may be a little distracting to understand from the photo alone, if you make up a quick sample of any pleat from scrap fabric, and do this "V" shaped Span Stitching as shown, it will become clear how it works to control the pleat.
Please note that these pleats are NOT functional pleats..they are decorative only. So restricting how much they are allowed to open will make no functional difference at all. As you can see from the photo of the completed shirt, the pleats still appear to be quite deep. They are just "not allowed" to gape open because of this inner, invisible/hidden stitching.

So the next time you make a shirt, why not try something a little different by adding some of your own interesting design details...like pleats in unexpected places !

And...if you like these little tutorials of mine, please vote for me by clicking the black/red "Seamingly" Vote box to the left on the side-bar...thanks :)

Ho Ho Ho Merry Panic, Update

2010-12-20T10:36:00.002-05:00

I truly had good intentions of finishing the all the garments planned for holiday gift-giving. However, along with the lesion on my thyroid gland, another nodule/lesion has been found in one of my lungs. So for the next 2 weeks or so, I will be ping-ponging between yet more doctors and hospitals...for CT scans, consults, etc, etc, and a probable biopsy of the mass to determine if it is malignant.

I am not in any acute pain, but am experiencing discomfort and some anxiety. Any sewing that I will be doing will just be simple whimsical children's garments to keep my mind occupied between medical appointment days. I am very anxious to sew the new Colette Menswear Shirt, and perhaps I'll have the energy to at least start it...I hope so!
Fashion Sewing Supply will remain in full operation, so don't worry about your orders :)

TUTORIAL-- Sew an Easy Textured Knit Hem

2010-12-14T16:08:00.000-05:00

For adults or children, this a fun way to add some textural interest to a plain hem on any garment made with stretchy knit fabric !

Here is a close-up of the sleeve hem of the knit under-Top pictured above, made for my 4-yr old friend Julianna.

You can barely see all the decorative stitching on the flat of the hem because the thread matches so well

So I will show you the steps I used to achieve this effect using contrasting colors in the samples below.

These samples have been done on flat pieces of fabric, however it it best to do this treatment "in the round" on an actual garment.

Using a measurement 1/4" less than you have allowed, turn up the hem and press. In other words, if you allowed for a 1" hem, just turn it up by 3/4". Then stitch it from the wrong side with a decorative stitch so the the stitching holds down the raw hem edge, as shown below--

Next, make another fold, turning the hemmed edge up about 1" deep to the wrong side and press, as shown below--

Now using a sewing machine or serger, "lettuce" the fold by stretching it while zig-zag stitching or serger-stitching along the fold. It will look something like this after "stretching and stitching."

Now turn back the hem into its normal position, and admire your new Textured Decorative Hem !

In this teaching example the effect looks rather garish because

I have used highly contrasting colors.

When matching thread is used, the effect is far more subtle :)

Ho Ho Ho...Merry Panic !

2010-12-13T09:12:00.002-05:00

I am in the midst of a full-blown Holiday Gift Giving Sewing Panic!

But is is a fun one, and within 11 days...it all should all be done. And if not, my sister and my husband are quite used to gifts a few ~~days~~ weeks late...it's become a tradition around here ;) But anyway, here's my plan--

On the left you'll see the new "Negroni" Men's Shirt Pattern from

Colette Patterns. It is a classic camp shirt that I am making for my husband, Roger. First I'll make it up in the nice lightweight blue denim (shown above) to test for fit, and then if it fits well and I like the pattern, I'll make one from the distressed gray silk that you see on the far left of the photo. I really do not expect any problems...a camp shirt is a camp shirt. And while this pattern comes with very detailed instructions, I'll be refining some of the details. It won't add any time, so If you would like to 'watch' me as I refine some of the details of this new pattern let me know in the comments section, and I will snap a few pics along the way :)

While I am working on the shirt, I'll also be preparing the fabric and cutting out the pieces of a Coat for my sister Carolyn...her birthday is Christmas day :) Along with being an accomplished medical professional, my sister is now a business woman! She has recently started to sell the fabulous jewelry line, Silpada. So I think the casual yet classy coat from McCalls that you see pictured will be perfect for her as she travels here and there to showcase all that amazing jewelry. I am making it from camel wool/cashmere knit that has been aging in my stash for a while. The only snag I can see about making this coat for my sister is that she is very petite....5' 1" tall and about 95 pounds. Luckily, our sleeve length and shoulder length is the same, so I should be able to scale down and shorten the smallest size (8) without too much trouble, and I will also reduce the flare a bit so the coat won't overwhelm her.

The gift that has a definite deadline is the one I making for the young mother who "lets" me sew for her 2 little girls! Jill is a sweet 26-year old beautiful young lady and a wonderful mother, who is always ready and willing to help me when I am ill...and she brings her little girls to visit me frequently :) That means alot to me because I have no children of my own, and I get to play "grandma" when they are here! I plan to make a top for her from matte jersey and the "swing vest" with the McCalls pattern shown on the right using the dark red microfiber suede pictured above. She is a tiny little thing but I think the x-small size will fit, based on her measurements.

To add to it all, our new Pro-Tricot Deluxe Interfacing has just arrived at Fashion Sewing Supply ! I have been developing this new interfacing for the past several months, and it is fantastic...I mean really really nice. I am so excited and proud of this new interfacing :) Made especially for knits, it has stretch both width and lengthwise due to a touch of lycra and a special knit weave. Our new Pro-Tricot Deluxe comes in 4 colors, it doesn't shrink at all, leaves the knit fabrics to which it is applied very soft/drapey, plus the fabric remains stretchy yet stabilized and completely machine washable. Whew..so many great features. This is not your typical tricot interfacing!
It is already selling very fast at the introductory price...so I will be cutting and packing orders before I can even think about sewing today. Oh, did I mention I have few shirts to sew for clients, as well? It's a good thing that I absolutely LOVE my ~~job~~ jobs :)
So, let the merry panic begin! But as that slogan we've seen all over the place says, I'll just...Stay Calm and Sew On !

NEW Tutorial-- Stretch NeckBand with Stable Back Seam

2010-12-06T17:34:00.002-05:00

Most of us have made tops with necklines finished with simple stretch neckbands instead of binding. Here is rather dressy style that I made for myself with a narrow self-fabric Stretch Neckband...

And here is a casually styled Toddler Sweatshirt that I recently made for my favorite one-year-old little girl, with a neckband made from rib-knit...

Whether casual or dressy, made with self-fabric or ribbing...it is all too easy for a Stretch Neckband to end up looking "wonky" because the layers have shifted while being sewn to the neckline. Keeping the seamed edges of a Stretch Neckband completely straight and stable while sewing it to the neckline can be tricky...especially with slippery knits !

Here is a way to stabilize and neatly enclose the back seam allowance of a Basic Stretch Neckband. This method may be common to experienced sewists, but it may be new to those who do not have much experience sewing with knits. Regardless, I hope you find it useful :)

So let's start :)

After you have determined how wide and long to make your Stretch Neckband (be it from a pattern piece, or your own design preference), it will look something like this example below...a single thickness of knit fabric.

(Please Note-- In this tutorial I am demonstrating with Rib Knit, aka "Ribbing")

The next step is to fold the strip in half, Right Sides Together so that the short ends meet, as shown below.

Usually, this is when we would sew the Back Seam of the Neckband, by stitching the short raw edges closed to form a circle (loop). But the next step is where this method differs from the norm.

Next, fold the entire strip in half again...this time from the top down. After making this fold you will have 4 (longer) raw edge layers that meet, 4 (short) raw edge layers that meet, and 2 folded ends that meet, as shown below.

Now take your folded Neckband Strip to the sewing machine, and stitch a seam starting from the TOP fold, through all four stacked short layers, as shown in the next 2 photos below. In this example I am using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

We now have a twice-folded Neckband piece, that has had the 4 (short) layers seamed together. As a result, we also now have 4 layers of seam allowance. At this point, you can choose to grade the seam by trimming the 2 inner seam allowances.

If I decide to grade this seam, I trim the 2 inner seam allowance layers by about half their width.

Now...finally...you will see the point of the extra fold and stitching those 4 stacked short edges together!

After the top edge is turned (flipped) over the seam allowances and all the raw edges meet, your Stretch Collar Band is ready to be sewn to the neckline of your garment.

The folded back seam allowances have been "locked" together by the stitching that was done, and now will not shift or slip when being sewn to the garment...yay!

QUICK REVIEW--The following sketch illustrates the usual way a Stretch Neckline Band is sewn to the neckline of a garment.
From top to bottom: 1. Quarter-mark the raw edges of the Stretch Neckband, using the Center-Back Seam as one of the marks. 2. Quarter-mark the neckline edge of the Garment. 3. With right sides together, match the marks of the Stretch Neckband to the marks of the neckline, then sew the Neckline Band to garment...stretching the Neckline Band to fit the neckline edge.

^Click photo to Enlarge^

Happy Sewing....

2010-11-08T13:38:00.001-05:00

Recovering from surgery while waiting for pathology reports is very stressful. So I decided a simple "happy" sewing project was just the thing to brighten my mood. These bright fabrics from my stash made me smile the entire time I was working with them!

I hope that my 4-year old little friend Julianna and her mommy like this very "happy" set. The peasant top is from a pattern by an Etsy Seller, Whimsy Couture. I highly recommend her patterns. The pants are a basic style from Ottobre Design, that I modified by changing the pant leg width and adding ruffle embellishment.

Tutorial-- Quick, Easy, Draped Cowl Variations !

2010-10-30T13:51:00.002-04:00

With even more draped cowl patterns like this one from McCalls appearing in recent pattern catalogs, this revisit of a popular tutorial I wrote a few years ago is even more relevant today.

So, now I'll show you how quick and easy it is to make countless variations like these shown below from a basic draped cowl neckline...that can be done in mere minutes!

First, start with a drape-front cowl (photo #1 below) already in your wardrobe, or make one with the many patterns that exist for this style.

As shown In photo #2, turn the garment inside out and flip the front facing up to expose the wrong side of front of the top.

Next, for the most basic variation, pinch some fabric near center front, twist it a bit, and hold the “twisted pinched” fabric with a rubber band, as shown in photo #3. I am showing this with a regular rubber band so it shows up in the photo, however a small clear "ponytail" band works best. Later, if you want to make this design change permanent, the 'twist' can be stitched. Or just remove the band, and you have your original draped cowl back again :)

Now turn down the facing to cover the banded fabric, as shown in photo #4.

As shown in photo #5 below, when the garment is turned right-side-out, the twisted detail becomes a new interesting design feature of the top.

Where you pinch and band the fabric is totally up to you: higher, lower, to the left or right of center, using 2 or 3 twists, etc. There are infinite possibilities for design variations like these.... Have fun!

TUTORIAL: Ravel Grading...A Master Tailor's Technique

2010-10-18T18:05:00.004-04:00

There are many ways to grade seams. Among them are trimming one seam allowance narrower than the other, turning the scissors on edge to "bevel" the allowances, and using Pinking Shears. But the hands-down most elegant and effective way I was ever shown, is to "Ravel Grade". This was the favored technique taught to me by my Master Tailor mentors during my apprenticeship. You are unlikely to find this technique in any tailoring books, as it is a very esoteric "old world" technique.

Below you will see a photo of 2 pieces of wool, that have been underlined with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing to within 3/16-inch of the seam edges. The 2 pieces of wool have been placed right sides together, and you can see (very faintly in blue), that a 5/8" seam has been sewn down the length of the two pieces, on the right.

^ Click to enlarge ^

The first and only step in the "Ravel Grading" process is very easy. Merely ravel off a few threads from the edge of both seam allowances, leaving soft fringed edges. So what does that accomplish? In this example, by completely removing the warp (lengthwise) thread from the seam allowance edges...the fabric there is now half as thick as before!
NOTE--Both seam allowances will be trimmed to 3/8" in some areas like lapel edges and jacket fronts before being Ravel Graded, and will remain "married" (not pressed open). But instead of being the thickness of 2 layers of fabric, one layer has been raveled away resulting in the edge-bulk being totally eliminated...the finished lapel and jacket front edges (collar edges, etc) will be sharp and completely flat after pressing.

^ Click to enlarge ^

In the photo below, you will see the seam allowance pressed open. Notice how elegantly the bulk from the allowance edge has disappeared, because the fabric there is now half of it's original thickness! And to think that all that needed to be done was ravel away a few threads :)

^ Click to enlarge ^

So I ask you...which seam allowance shown below will be far less likely to leave a "pressing ridge" on the right side of a finished garment? The "pinked" side...or the side that was Ravel Graded ? Especially if your fashion fabric is very thick, highly slubbed, or other wise textured? Why the "Ravel Graded" side, of course :)

^ Click to enlarge ^

SEWING NOTES: Medium weight wool flannel fabric is underlined with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing, a very lightweight highly flexible interfacing available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply.

In case you are wondering...about half the beautifully tailored, very expensive garments that were created in the shop during my apprenticeship were made with fusible interfacings that my mentors imported from Italy. When I created my own line of custom-milled fusible interfacings, I managed to reproduce the same uncompromising "premium" professional quality. If they were still on this earth, I dearly hope that my mentors would be proud of my efforts :)

TUTORIAL- Felled Shoulder/Sleeve Cap Seam Technique (revisited)

2010-10-06T07:41:00.002-04:00

Since I am unable to sew because of my health, and because I have so many new blog followers since I first published this tutorial, I thought it was due for a "revisit".

------------------------------------

Progress on the Vintage Mens Shirt continues!

Now the sleeves are sewn...and I thought you might be interested in seeing how these sleeves are drafted and set. It is done differently than most methods seen in modern printed patterns.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)

Take a look at these pattern pieces. I've marked the stitching lines so that you can see that the sleeve seam allowance is twice as wide as the corresponding seam on the shirt back (and front, not shown). The seam allowance of the sleeve is 1", and the armscye seam allowance is 1/2".

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)

As you can see in the photo below, when the stitching line of the sleeve and armscye are matched (right sides together), the sleeve cap allowance extends beyond that of the shirt. The sleeve is set by stitching along the stitching line of the armscye. It's much easier to do if you first mark the 1/2" seam allowance as you can see by the blue lines. When you've set sleeves this way several times, you can just do it by sight. In fact, when I hand-draft shirts, I almost always draft the sleeve allowance at twice the width of the armscye allowance.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)

Here is the sleeve set into the armscye, from the wrong side. Because the sleeve seam allowance is wider, it is "auto-magically" ready to be felled...with no trimming needed!

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)

To begin felling the seam, just fold and press the larger (wide) sleeve seam allowance over the smaller (narrow) one, enclosing it. In the lower portion of photo below, the larger seam allowance is folded over the smaller, and still open near the top of the photo.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)

When the sleeve allowance is completely pressed over the armscyce allowance... next press BOTH allowances towards the shirt. Look...an "instant" felled seam !

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)

All that remains to finish setting the sleeves is to topstitch a scant 1/2" away from the well of the seam from the RIGHT SIDE, through all layers....as shown below.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)

And this is how the felled sleeve seam looks from the wrong side, after the topstitching is complete. Nice and smooth, neat and easy...with no raw edges.

TUTORIAL- Pre-shrink Wool...Fast and Easy at Home! (revised)

2010-08-30T08:25:00.002-04:00

Many of us are ready to sew our fall wardrobes....and I am too!
So I thought you might be interested to know of an easy yet professionally effective method that I use to pre-shrink wool yardage. It is one of a few methods that I learned during my Tailor Apprenticeship.

(This is a revised version of one of the most popular tutorials I have written. Since I have so many new blog followers since it was first published here last year, I thought it was time to revisit it :)

First...the fabric! This luscious yardage is from my stash. One of the pieces was purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics a few seasons ago. The green check yardage is 100% tropical wool crepe, the gray check yardage is a blend of wool and silk.

Why pay big bucks to take this fabric to the dry-cleaner to steam shrink it,
when we can do it easily at home?

Now the method:

Serge or zig-zag the raw cut edges of the fabric.

Next, wet 2-3 clean thick towels with very HOT water until they are quite wet but NOT dripping. Use towels you have had for a while, so that lint will not be transferred from the towels to the fabric ;)

Now toss the hot wet towels and the fabric into your clothes dryer.

Set the dryer on HIGH heat, and tumble the fabric and hot wet towels for 30-40 minutes. (If you are using a high napped wool, or are just unsure about this method, test on a 6"x6" swatch of your fabric before committing the entire length.)
If you have a steam setting on your dryer...skip the towels and tumble with steam for 20-30 minutes on high heat. If your fabric is still damp after 20-30 minutes, dry without steam for about 10 more minutes.

Lay the fabric flat until it is cool.

That's it! Your wool yardage is now ready for the needle.

The appropriate interfacing for most wool and wool blends
is PRO-WEFT Fusible or ProTailor Deluxe.

As you can see above, this Dryer "Machine Steam Shrink" method did not visibly change the fabric at all, and it's hand is still soft and smooth. However it did shrink. Each piece was 60" wide and 2 yards long before steam-shrinking. After, the green 100% wool piece measured 59.5" wide and was 2.5" shorter in length. The gray wool/silk blend was still 60" wide but 1.75" shorter in length.

TUTORIAL-- How to "Distress" Silk

2010-08-22T14:20:00.005-04:00

~Casual Mens "Distressed" Silk Shirt ~

I love to work with silk when making shirts for men or women. I prefer to use Dupioni Silk...a shiny silk fabric woven with crosswise irregular threads that form uneven "slubs" across the fabric's width. Dupioni silk can be quite hefty in weight or very light-weight. Directly off the bolt, Dupioni silk is too shiny and crisp for my designs. While fine "as is" for garments like prom gowns and wedding dresses, it is much too formal for my purposes. So I wash it in a specific way until it softens and fades.

Oh yes, there can be surprises along the way, but to me that's part of the fun ! The slubs will swell, the color will fade, cross-dyed silk may become a totally new color, and it will definitely shrink. When purchasing silk to distress, I try to buy the 54" wide dupioni, and I buy more than I need. If I need 2 yards, I buy 3. If I need 3 yards, I buy 4.5. Better to have a little more, than not enough...I can always make a scarf ;)

Here are some lengths of Silk Dupioni as they came off the bolt.

^ CLICK to enlarge and see details ^

Each piece is 4.5 yards long. Notice the high sheen of the fabric and how the colors are very saturated.

My distressing process of these silks was to wash and dry each piece separately in a particular order, using different laundry products along the way. Here is how I "distressed" the silk pictured above, based on their unwashed lengths of 4.5 yards.

1. Wash the fabric on a regular cycle in HOT water this way--Place a length of dupioni into the washer, along with a scant tablespoon of a special textile detergent called Synthrapol . Synthrapol cleans the fabric very thoroughly, suspending any "free" dye in the water so it goes down the drain and does not settle back onto the fabric.

2. Place the washed fabric into an empty clothes dryer set on HOT, until thoroughly dry. (Note--this is the ONLY time during this process that you will dry the silk on the HOT dryer setting)

3. Look at your fabric in good light. If it has the "hand", drape, and color that you like, it is time for step 4.

If you want a more faded look, repeat the washing directions in step 1 & 2...however this time wash in HOT water, BUT DRY on LOW.

Keep washing (hot)/drying (low) until your silk looks the way you want it to...this is not exact science :) As a frame of reference, I rarely choose to "Hot wash/dry Low" (after Step 1) more than 4 times.

4. Shampoo and condition your silk. Yes, really! Use a good quality shampoo and conditioner, because after washing as described above your silk will look nice, but it might be scratchy if you have put it through more than 2 of the wash/dry cycles. I like to use the products pictured below, because I can usually find them on sale. This last time, Wash your silk on the DELICATE cycle in COLD water with a teaspoon of shampoo. Dissolve a Tablespoon of conditioner in some water, and add it to the COLD water of the final rinse cycle.

^ CLICK to enlarge and see details ^

This is what my silk lengths looked like after 1 cycle of "Step 1" and 2 cycles of "Hot wash/ dry Low --

^ CLICK to enlarge and see details ^

The colors had changed and/or faded, the slubby grain was raised, and the silk was less shiny. It shrank between 18" to 27" in length and 2" to 4" in width (each piece was a little different).

But I wanted to roughen it up even more. So I put it through 2 more cycles of "Hot wash/ dry Low" (for a total of 4 wash/dry cycles after step 1). After "shampooing" as described in Step 4, this is what my beautifully distressed silk dupioni looks like...soft, supple, and ready for the needle !

^ CLICK to enlarge and see details ^

These silk pieces did not shrink any more after the first 2 wash cycles or after their "shampoo". When sewing with distressed silk dupioni, you can cut it on the cross-grain like I prefer (so the slubby grain-line runs lengthwise on the finished garment). When possible, use french or felled seams to discourage "seam slippage".

Wash the finished garment by hand, or on a very delicate machine cycle using shampoo in cold water. I usually dry distressed silk garments in the dryer on a very low/delicate setting until just slightly damp, and then hang until completely dry. Distressed silk dupioni is surprisingly strong, and can take the heat and steam of an iron set to wool to high wool.

Other Sewing Notes-- Use regular sewing thread (silk thread is not necessary). Use the best quality interfacing on your silk-- Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing for the softest, most supple results on light to medium weight silks you plan to use for blouses or dresses, or
Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing for the best flexible stability on medium weight silks that you plan to use to for jackets, etc.

Tutorial: Perfect Chevron Pockets...Every Time !

2010-08-09T10:46:00.003-04:00

I was asked how I get stripes to match perfectly when making a Chevron Pocket.

Here is my method (and please forgive the strange blue cast of the photos, my camera is on its last legs)--

You may click each photo to enlarge and see more detail.

First, start with a piece of fabric that you have cut on the bias. In this example, I used scrap fabric and was able to cut a bias triangle that was about 17" on each side. The size of your bias piece for an adult size pocket, must be at least 16" on each side. After it is cut, you will have a piece of fabric that is Straight Grain on TWO sides, and ONE side that is on BIAS. Position your fabric piece on your table as shown, with the bias edge on the "bottom".

Next, holding the bottom-right point of the triangle, fold the piece in half. It doesn't have to meet perfectly, as you can see in my example below--

Now, turn your piece so it is easy to trim off a scant 1/4" (or less) along the folded side.

What you want to get are 2 separate triangles like the ones shown below...after trimming off a bit of the folded edge, and then turning the top piece right side facing up,

This next step may sound odd in written directions, but it very easy. KEEP BOTH TRIANGLES RIGHT SIDES UP. Then rotate just ONE of the triangles clockwise, until your rotation results in the two inner edge stripes lining up like a V-shape Chevon. It's easy, just keep rotating JUST ONE piece until the edges meet and look like this--

Yes, it is likely that your edges may be quite off-set like these are, if your stripes are wide. If this step confuses you, draw some stripes on 2 triangles of paper and practice this step before cutting your fabric.

Ok...Now you have 2 pieces of fabric that are right sides up, and meet in the middle forming V-shaped chevron stripes. Next, flip one piece over so that they are right sides together. THIS NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT--slide the top piece over a little bit, and adjust the the pieces until the stripes match up, as shown below. By off-setting the pieces like this, you are SURE the stripes will match when you sew the pieces together in the next step.

Pin your pieces together so that they will not shift, and sew the matched edges together with about a 3/8" seam allowance. Your sewn piece will look like this, the seam-allowances still off-set--

It's all VERY easy from here to your finished perfect Chevron Striped Pocket ! Next, press your seam allowances open. This is how your piece will look from the wrong side--

And this is how it will look from the right side. Because the edges were off-set and perfectly matched before sewing, you have perfect chevron stripes !

Now all you have to do is place your pocket pattern so that the center of the pattern runs along the seam, as shown below, and then cut out your Perfect Chevron Striped Pocket !

For a precise way to hem and turn the edges of any patch pocket to prepare it to be sewn onto a garment, you may be interested in another tutorial I wrote, Perfect Pockets Every Time

Shirt with Chevron Pocket...and Bias Details

2010-08-04T12:08:00.003-04:00

This shirt is one of my original designs,

and is made from cotton seersucker fabric.

Sometimes working with seersucker fabric ~~sucks~~ is not easy. This particular seersucker fabric was a challenge because it was quite loosely woven, and because I chose to add bias details to this design. So I needed a way to reinforce them properly. Luckily, I was able to stabilize the bias details on the front button placket and sleeve bands with one of the custom-milled Interfacings I developed...a very light and flexible interfacing that can be applied with lower heat settings, PRO-SHEER Elegance Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. My client wanted a casual shirt that would look slightly "crushed" and that would be very lightweight and comfortable to wear. The unique features of PRO-SHEER Elegance Interfacing made it possible to control the bias without making it stiff. If I had used virtually any other interfacing, the bias bands would have prevented the sleeves from draping naturally, and the shirt would have lost the soft casual look I wanted for my client.

Here is a close-up of the Chevron Pocket, Bias Button Placket, and Bias Sleeve Bands. I apologize for the quality of the photos...I really need a new camera :)

CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE and see more detail.

Gather a "Euro-Ruffle"...Without pulling a Thread !

2010-07-19T07:52:00.000-04:00

I enjoy using center-gathered strips to use as a ruffle embellishment (often called a "Euro-Ruffle"). The ruffled strip on the top pictured above is for my little friend Julianna, age 3, but I have used this same technique with narrow ruffles around necklines or sleeves on adult garments. The ways to use this embellishment are limited only by your imagination.

In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a center ruffled strip, without having to pull any gathering threads!

You can click each photo to enlarge it, then click the << BACK button of your browser to return to this page.

First, start with a strip of woven or knit fabric. I have found that any width from 3/4" to 3" works well when using the finished ruffle to embellish a shirt or top, as pictured above. However, I have seen wider ruffles used by other designers that look very nice...it's up to the look you want. I usually tear my fabric strips on the cross-grain of the fabric when using a woven fabric, or I cut the strips with a rotary-cutter when using a knit fabric. Sometimes I leave the edges raw, or I finish them as I showed you in THIS POST.

The top pictured above was embellished with 1-3/4" strips of woven fabric that have been finished like this--

Since the strips will be gathered, you may need to start with more than one strip so that it will be long enough. I find that it is easier to join them before gathering, as shown below--

After stitching them together as shown above, trim off the the excess "triangle", leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Treat the seam allowance with a product like "Fray Check" to prevent it from raveling, then open up the strip so that it is straight , and press. It should look like this--

Don't be worried if the edges do not meet exactly! A small mismatch will never be seen after the strip is gathered...trust me :)

Now this is where the "no thread pulling" gathering happens. I found this nifty presser foot....called a "Gathering Foot" at an online store. A sewing friend has told me that this foot is also known as a "Shirring Foot". It was about 10 bucks, and worth every penny in my opinion. This is what it looks like:

Maybe you already have one among the presser feet that came with your machine.

The key to using the Gathering Foot is to increase the foot pressure, lengthen your stitch to about 3, and to increase your upper thread tension as high as it will go. Test a scrap strip of fabric by stitching down the center of the strip. If your test strip gathers up nicely like this one, you are ready to gather the strip you are using for your embellishment--

If your test strip does NOT gather well, like this one....

...there are 2 things you can do. You can try increasing the UPPER (top) thread tension by wrapping the thread twice though the first threading guide on your machine. This how that looks on my machine--

Or, you can place your fingers right behind the foot as you sew, preventing the fabric from moving. Once you cannot hold the "bunch" of fabric behind the foot any longer, release, and just place your finger behind the foot again. Repeat until the entire strip is gathered. Here is a photo of this technique--

When you are finished gathering your strip, it will look like a twisted ruffle, like this--

To make it MUCH easier to work with, press the strip as straight and flat as you can, as shown below. Don't worry about crushing it, the strip will ruffle up again after you wash the finished garment...trust me :)

Now the ends of the ruffled strip need to be clean-finished. You can do this before gathering the strip, or after it is gathered. It is just my preference to do it after gathering...I've found that it makes the finished strip look ruffled right to the ends, rather than looking "flat" on the ends. Just turn about 1/4" twice to the wrong side and stitch, as shown below.

So, now you have a lovely "Euro-Ruffle" that you can easily arrange into any shape, like this one that I've arranged into a simple "S" shape.

Embellishing your garment with these ruffles is easy. Just use a narrow zig-zag, and stitch along the center covering the straight gather stitching as you sew it to your garment. Some designers embellish their garments before assembling them, others apply the ruffles after the garment is finished. For tops, I have found it easier to apply the ruffle after I stitch one shoulder seam, and one side seam. Then I can extend the ruffle easily to the back of the garment while it is flat. I usually arrange mine in a random way like the top pictured at the top of this tutorial, but you can mark a line on your garment and follow it as you attach the ruffle. It's all up to you how you use your lovely ruffles !

But the best thing about this technique is not having to try to gather a long strip by pulling threads, isn't it?

Perfect Serged Rolled Edges...A Quick Tip !

2010-07-13T13:03:00.001-04:00

This is a technique for facilitating a rolled edge using a serger.

First, set your serger up to do a rolled hem, according to your machine's owner's manual.
Next, as you feed the edge to be rolled...notice how I use my finger to hold the fabric edge taut while also bending the edge slightly so that it is already "persuaded" to roll. You will also notice that I keep my serger knife in the upward position when doing a rolled hem. I find that I get a better rolled edge if I start with the "cleanest" straight edge as it feeds into the machine. In this demonstration I used all four threads...my ultra-cheap serger just does a better rolled hem using 4 threads.

Here is the strip of medium weight cotton with it's rolled hem...look, no "Pokies" (loose whisker threads) !

This strip of fabric being roll-hemmed will be used to make a decorative "Euro-Ruffle" embellishment.
Coming soon....I'll show you my method for making "Euro" center-stitched and gathered ruffles like the one shown below, without having to pull threads to gather!

Tutorial-- Perfect "Turn-and-Stitch" Curved Edges and Hems

2010-07-05T08:43:00.000-04:00

Whether sewing a top or dress for children like the one pictured above, or garments for adults, often the "turned-and-stitched" concave curved edges, of necklines, armscyes, and shirt hems pucker and twist...no matter how careful we are.

While the pattern for the blouse pictured above had good directions for turning a nice smooth armscye, most patterns just tell you to turn the fabric edge twice to the wrong side and top-stitch, and skip a crucial step.

Some of you who are experienced sewists no doubt are already familiar with the technique shown below. For those who are not, I'll show you how I sew no-pucker "turn-and-stitch" edges that never fail to look professional. While demonstrated with armscye edges, the same technique can be used on a turn-and-stitched neckline edge, and shirt-tail hems.

Here is an example of a top with turn-and-stitch armscyes. The fabric I chose for this example is polyester lining, very slippery, with no stretch at all. I chose a difficult fabric to show how this simple technique will work without any "help" from fabric with natural fiber and/or any degree of stretch.

If your pattern calls for 5/8" seam allowances, trim the seam allowance of the edge to be turned to 1/4" or 3/8".
Then turn the edge 1/4" (or 3/8" if that is the seam allowance you are using) to the wrong side of the garment and press.

Now here is the simple step that is missed in many pattern instructions. However, it is crucial to a professionally turned edge. What needs to be done next is very easy...just make tiny clips into

the turned edge every 1/2" or so, as shown below.

Then turn the edge again 1/4" (or 3/8" if that is the seam allowance you are using) to the wrong side, encasing the raw clipped edge. Press well. It should now look like this--

The final step is to secure the folded edge by top-stitching from the right side. You will then press the edge. Here is my quick sample shown unpressed so you can see how making those tiny clips into the first fold results in a perfectly pucker-free folded edge :)

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