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3/18/2012

What I'm working on...Shirt with Angled Yoke


I started this design last week, but have been very busy since my blog-interview with the lovely Gertie!

When finished (sometime next week, I hope)...this will be a Man's Shirt with a one-piece *angled* wrap-over Yoke. Excuse the poor sketch (I cannot draw) and blurry pic of the "working pattern".  

This first muslin was pretty good and I've made some minor changes to the final pattern.  Right side of shirt is shown...


When drafting a shirt for a man where the yoke wraps over the shoulder and ends at a deep angle in the front, shape needs to be "built-into" the yoke so that the shirt  lays smoothly along the shoulder.  While you will sometimes see a design like this for women or children...there are very few angled (one piece) yoke styles found among commercial patterns for men.  In menswear this look is usually accomplished by a separate piece that is stitched to the shirt fronts (like western shirts, for example).


5 comments:

  1. Looks good! I'm looking forward to hearing more about this shirt.

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  2. I am really considering your interfacing, that tearaway stuff looks irresistible. Which interfacing are you using for shirt collar and cuffs?

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  3. Hello Lena, I use our *Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing* for most of the shirts we make here in my shop from woven cotton shirting. For shirts made from denim or flannel (or other similar fabrics) I use our *Pro-Weft Supreme Light Fusible*.

    Both of those and many more interfacing styles are available at
    Fashion Sewing Supply

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  4. Anonymous9:47 AM

    Pam, wouldn't the yoke also reflect the slope in the front. I would like to try this on my husbands shirts but am puzzled about the yoke portion.
    Thank you for all your ideas, not only are they helpful but inspiring.

    Marie

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  5. Had to go right to Gertie's blog and read the interview.

    Like the new shirt draft and will look forward to its completion.

    Theresa in Tucson

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