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3/03/2010

Hot Off the Machine...Newest Shirt Design

This "Striation Stripe" Shirt is my latest original hand-drafted design,  made for one of my favorite clients.  This shirt's design features include a Band Collar, French Front plackets, buttoned "Cigar Pocket", cross-stripe Sleeve Plackets, and Wood buttons.

SEWING NOTES-- Fabric provided by the client. Pro-Woven Fusible Interfacing from ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~

 

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18 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Pam
How do you determine when to use Pro Woven Fusible Interfacing or or the Pro Sheer on a project? Do you make samples or do you already know from experience which would be best for the fabric you are working with?

7:15 AM  
Blogger Lori said...

Great new shirt design, I am sure the client will be so pleased.

7:27 AM  
Blogger Gigi said...

Oh, Pam, that's a beauty!

8:09 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Anonymous, Generally I just know from experience which interfacing to use. However, there are times that I make quick samples from scrap fabric to test a variety of my interfacings.

Usually this is how it works out--

ProWoven Fusible, for classic SHIRTS made from shirting cotton or cotton blends.

ProSheer Elegance, for soft unstructured BLOUSES and TOPS made from knits, or lightweight wovens, and delicate fabrics like silk.

8:10 AM  
Blogger julia said...

Very nice! I just my my little grandson a dress shirt without a pattern. This makes about 4 i've made for him.

8:22 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

What a lucky customer! Your fabric choice is stunning, and the cuff and sleeve placket variation is so effective. I'll have to keep this technique in mind--elegant work--brava!!!

9:31 AM  
Blogger benbes said...

thats is a n excellnt design, I admire your skills.
janome sewing machines

9:40 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very nice! Wow, that sure looks like a fabric I just bought from fabric.com: http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=60335525-43e7-4974-9b41-1ac879a98c37&CategoryID=b15cca46-4361-476d-86e7-a833e5bff70c

Great to see it (or a fabric very much like it) made up!!

10:31 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Anonymous...thanks, glad you like the shirt. Yes you are right, the fabric does look very similar!

12:35 PM  
Blogger Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Fabulous shirt!

6:02 PM  
Anonymous Theresa in Tucson said...

Pam, that is some wonderful fabric, kinda like butterscotch you can wear. Define "French Front Placket" if you would please.

10:08 PM  
Blogger Shayla Sharp said...

Beautiful. I like how the simplicity of the construction lines compliment the fabric without the two competing.

4:32 PM  
Anonymous jane said...

hi pam ,glad to hear from you ,was thinking of you last night hoping that all was well with you,jane and the kitties from the sewing lists

11:08 AM  
Anonymous Theresa in Tucson said...

Just in case anyone else had the same question about the French Front placket. I found a men's drafting book that had one so I withdraw the question. Nancy Zieman's covered it in several of her books. She called it the "Pronto" placket where the front extension is folded and stitched in such a way as to mimic a sewn on placket.

8:47 PM  
Blogger Sue said...

Fabulous fabric and really suits the design!

4:21 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

8:57 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Theresa, please forgive me for not answering your question right away. I have been quite ill for the past few days.

Thank-you for your excellent explanation in my absence :)
Zieman's explanation does lack some information, however. A French-Front button Placket is a timeless classic design detail of it's own, it is not used to mimic a sewn on placket or as a short-cut technique. It *is* a cut-on placket...one that is turned twice to the *inside* so that a clean, sharp reinforced fold is seen on the "public side" of the shirt.

That said, a "Cut-on Placket" can be folded twice to the *outside* and top-stitched to mimic a sewn placket..that technique is called a "Cut-on Placket".

Let me add that with a classic French front placket, it is very important that the shirt front is cut precisely on the straight grain. Here in my studio we do that by tearing the fabric length-wise and placing the edge of the placket side of the front pattern piece along the torn edge.
If we are working with fabric that does not tear neatly, we very carefully follow a lengthwise (warp) thread when placing the pattern.

9:14 AM  
Anonymous Theresa in Tucson said...

Pam, thanks for the tip on "absolutely" straight grain for the French front placket. I've done a few of them but was not so fussy, and although the shirts looked nice, they could have been better. I will keep that in mind the next shirt I make. Hope you are feeling better soon.

11:00 PM  

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