Two Ways to Tame T-Shirt Hems

Hemming the knit garments that we sew can often be a frustrating experience. 

Wavy, stretched-out, lumpy, and uneven hems are all too common. 

Here are 2 easy ways to get great looking hems on knit garments every time!

The first way to hem knit garments and the one I use most often is by "Crowding the Needle".  

As you can see in the photo above, as the un-stitched part of the hem of this knit top approaches the needle, I push it towards the needle. This lets the feed dogs do all the work while I gently guide the fabric,  deliberately "pushing" it towards the needle with one hand...while I keep the garment straight by guiding it gently with the other hand behind the presser-foot.  "Crowing the Needle" this way acts like the differential feed of a serger, producing a nice smooth hem with no puckers or waves.  This method works best when there is very light pressure on the foot, and when you stitch slowly.

The second way to tame knit fabric hems is by using any of the various brands of 

Clear "Water Soluble" embroidery stabilizers...such as the brand-name product, "Solvy" 

(easily available at chain fabric stores).

As pictured below, first cut about a 10-inch length of the stabilizer. Then roll it up into a tube. Next, as shown below, cut off a "slice" of the tube the depth of the hem. I usually cut several 1-inch "slices", as that is the hem depth I use on most knit garments.





Now you have several nice uniform strips of stabilizer ready to FUSE your hem.

Fuse?

Yes, that's right, you will be using the stabilizer to temporarily "fuse" the hem into place before stitching. Here's how:


Just as you would use regular fusible web to permanently fuse a hem, place your strip of "clear wash-away stabilizer" between the hem allowance and the garment ("inside" the hem). Then thoroughly steam-press the hem. This melts the water-soluble stabilizer strip, temporarily holding the hem in place while also making the hem area firm and completely stable.

Now stitch your totally stabilized hem. A twin-needle hem works especially well, because the hem area is so stable that the stitches will not "tunnel".
Once your hem is stitched, the stabilizer is easily and completely removed from the garment by a quick trip through the rinse cycle of the washing machine. After drying, your hem will be soft, flexible, and beautiful...with no puckers or waves!

Snow and Sewing

Much of the 14" of snow that fell last week has melted, but we still have enough (with more falling) to make for a pleasant winter landscape.  I just love snow !   ...but perhaps that is because Roger does all the shoveling :)

This is the view from my front door, taken this morning as more snow was softly falling...

This is the view from my side door. The pine trees are so tall, there was no way to get their tops into the photo.  Oh, those thin "sticks" you see are driveway markers. We need them so that when several inches of snow falls, we know where the driveway is!

Now about sewing.  There hasn't been much of that going on during the past week or so.  The sale we had at Fashion Sewing Supply generated 100's of orders, which we are still diligently cutting and packing. The last packages will be going out in a day or so. For those of you who ordered...as always, thanks again for shopping with us. Your patronage is more appreciated than you can possibly know.

Another situation that has stopped me from sewing and bogging as much as I would like to, is a lingering injury to my hip.  I am going through some painful treatments, and it is just not possible for me to accomplish everything I need or would like to do. So please bear with me....I'll be back with more sewing information as soon as possible!

Oh...one more thing.  If you "do" Facebook, feel free to add me as a friend. I am there as Pamela Erny.
Often my quick sewing projects that do not warrant a full blog post end up on Facebook, rather then here ;)

Gathered Sleeve or Puffed Sleeve? ...it's All About the Seam Allowances

First...Since many wondered what I'd be making with that luscious striped Japanese knit (shown in a previous post) , you'll see it pictured above, made into the HotPatterns Riviera AnnisetteTop. The Riviera Annisette Top has gathered sleeves, but I chose to alter the sleeve pattern and make long plain sleeves instead. Why? I just felt that there was enough interest in the fabric itself, and didn't want to muddy it up with more details.


Now to begin this discussion of gathered sleeve caps, take a look at the blue top, above. It has gathered sleeves that are very subtle. When you make a top, dress or blouse with sleeve cap gathers, you have a choice to make them "puffed" or simply gathered into soft folds. It's all about the way the sleeve cap seam allowances are pressed.
 

When the seam allowances are pressed towards the sleeve, you have puffy sleeves like the example to the right.  In my opinion, puffy sleeves are usually better suited to the very young...but to each her own :)

Pressing the seam allowances towards the "body" (neckline) of the garment, results in sleeve cap gathers that lay  "flatter", and present more subtle folds.  It's a small detail, but one that is usually kinder to a mature figure.





Directing the seam allowances of gathers one way or the other can make a difference in other areas of a garment. For instance, pressing the seam allowance of a gathered skirt of a dress "up" towards the bodice will encourage the gathers to lay more flat, in smooth folds. Pressing those same gathers "down" (towards the hem) , will encourage the gathers to puff-up.  It's all about the look you prefer...and now you know you have a choice.

Sewing Notes: Yokes on both of the tops shown interfaced with PRO-SHEER ELEGANCE Fusible Interfacing from  

~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~

Empty Closet = Sewing New Tops

Prompted by the fact that I have almost nothing "nice" to wear this season, I managed to get some sewing done this week. Since I can only stand for limited amounts of time because of my injury, tracing new patterns is not an option for me for a while. So I used 2 of my tried and true patterns, HotPatterns Weekender Sunshine Top, and HotPatterns Metropolitan GoodTimes Top.
The gray Weekender Sunshine Top, shown above, is made from a luscious wool/cashmere blend sweater knit. I made the neckband a little wider and lengthened the short sleeves to full length. I am thrilled with the way it turned out..it feels so luxurious! If you have this pattern, do try it with long sleeves for the fall/winter. If you don't have this pattern, it's really worth a try. It's so flattering..makes your waist look tiny and that's always a good thing!   I made this style several times last spring, and wrote a step-by-step tutorial about how to sew it. It can be found HERE.

Earlier in the week, I made 2 versions of the Metropolitan GoodTimes Top. The olive green version is made from a wool/cashmere blend sweater knit. The blue print version is made from cotton/lycra jersey, and features shirred sleeves.  I am so happy to have some nice new tops...now I just have to muster up enough energy to sew a few more tops, some slacks, and I'll be all set for this season...maybe :)  

Sewing Notes: The band and yokes on all the tops are interfaced with Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing. The Sweater Knit yardage has been in my 'stash' for a long time, it was from 

Baer Fabrics, now out of business. 

The Cotton/Lycra Jersey is from Fabric.com.

Happiness is a Box of new Fabric !

Oh...I just love when the UPS guy delivers 

a box of beautiful fabrics!

Last week while browsing the Gorgeous Fabrics site, I just could not resist..and treated myself to some new goodies. The 2 striped pieces that you see are Japanese novelty knits that have a wonderful ribbed texture. And since they have stretch in both directions, design options abound.  The vanilla chenille knit is so dreamy soft, and the olive stretch twill coordinates with both Japanese knits. Now can I tell you about the blue Stretch Denim?  OMGosh this has to be the nicest denim/lycra blend I've ever purchased!  The face is absolutely smooth, with none of the annoying slubs found with most stretch denims. Even after washing it's as smooth as can be.  I am so glad I bought enough to make 2 pairs of jeans..one pair that will fit me now while I am carrying extra water weight from medication I have to take for a while..and another for when I am back to normal :)  The quality of this denim is so nice, I may have to go back and get some more....

How to Add Seam Allowances to Traced Patterns...the Easy Way

There has been some chat on various sewing lists and forums lately about tracing patterns and adding seam allowances to them, so here is a repeat of a tutorial I wrote several months ago that some of you may have missed and may find helpful...


For those of us who draft our own patterns, or trace them from the various pattern magazines, here's an easy way to add seam allowances--


It's very simple...and while not a new concept, I do it a bit differently.

The method is basic:
Add the seam allowance to the pattern by stitching around the pattern using an un-threaded needle the desired distance from the sewing line.

What's different about the way I do it?

Well...I have discovered that by using a large Wing Needle, and a very close stitch (.5-1), the excess pattern paper just peels off. No need to cut out the pattern!

Some more information--

I run the pattern through the machine...the traced stitching line of the pattern on the RIGHT....making sure the stitching line of the pattern is on the seam allowance I want. Thus, the needle holes are punched to the left of the stitching line, adding the seam allowance.

I can see through the pattern paper easily enough to be able to run the marked stitching line exactly on the 1/4", 3/8", or 5/8" inch line that is marked on the bed of my machine. If I can't see through the paper easily, I just use a post-it or piece of blue "painter's tape" along the desired depth of seam allowance I want to add.

After getting a few questions...here are some additional pictures that hopefully will make this process more clear:

1. Mark the desired seam allowance with painter's tape to make it visible under the pattern to which you are adding allowances--

2. The blue line on the paper (shown below) is the traced pattern line. Run it along the desired depth of seam allowance you want to add (see depth of seam allowance pic above), using a wing needle. This punches holes in the pattern paper, adding the seam allowance (the distance from the needle to the blue traced line is the added seam allowance)--

Japanese Shirtmaking Journey...a detour.

I am so sorry that it's taking me this long to continue to explore the Japanese Shirtmaking book that I started several days ago.  I am recovering from a hip joint/bone injury that has severely limited my ability to stand, sit, sew,..gosh almost everything.  I promise I will get back to it soon, hopefully within the next week.  This blog and it's readers are very important to me, and It's frustrating not to be able to blog with sewing pictures and procedures...rather than this boring monologue :)

They Brought it Back !

I am so happy that HotPatterns has re-introduced my all time favorite ladies shirt pattern,  The Plain and Simple Princess Shirt. I have made this shirt so many times, both for myself and for gifts and just love how versatile it is.

The HotPatterns folks say this style has been re-fitted with a better sleeve, re-graded to their multisize charts and now comes with new instructions and diagrams.

 Frankly, I can't imagine this pattern getting any better, and I am really looking forward to trying the new version! In the meantime, here is one of many I have made....my favorite HotPatterns Princess Shirt made from buttery soft plum Ultrasuede. 

To follow my step-by-step tutorial about sewing the classic collar and lapel of this shirt....
Click HERE for Part One
Click HERE for Part Two

How to Rescue Wrinkled Interfacing...

I think we all try to keep our interfacing perfectly folded in a drawer or neatly rolled on tubes. But how many times have you reached for a piece of interfacing only to find a wrinkled mess like this...
Probably like me, more than once. 
 

 Luckily there is an easy fix, and it starts at your grocery store. Or perhaps you already have it in your pantry... Parchment Paper!

First, roll out a length of parchment paper onto your ironing board or other pressing surface.





Next, Place your wrinkled interfacing GLUE SIDE DOWN onto the Parchment Paper. Then with your DRY iron set on on a LOW setting (silk/synthetic), slowly slide the warm iron over the wrinkles.

You will see the wrinkles disappear as you slowly move the iron.
The interfacing does not stick to the slippery parchment paper at all, and you can move the next section of wrinkled interfacing onto the paper easily.  And since the iron is set below the  temperature  needed to melt the fusible resin, it is not adversely affected at all. 
 

When you are finished, your once wrinkled interfacing is perfectly flat and smooth, and ready to fuse to your fabric!

More sneaky Sewing...

Yes, yes...I know...I should be doing so many other things (like Japanese shirt sewing) !   But this morning I just felt like sewing something very fun, very quick, and very easy  :)

 

This is the "Dots T-shirt" from the new 06/09 Ottobre Design issue, style #29. This one was made from a soft medium weight cotton/lycra knit for my 10-yr old niece, Willow.
 

Of course, I can never just leave a pattern be without adding or changing something...so...
In order to get as much gathering in the center panel as I wanted, I added an inch to the length of the panel as I was cutting it out. Willow has long arms, but the sleeves on this pattern are very, very long...meant to be worn over the hand. After the shirt was sewn, I realized that Willow, as neat as she is...is still a child :)  So to bring the sleeves up I stitched clear elastic onto the seam allowances stretching it slightly as I sewed.  To finish the neckline, I sewed a folded band to the neck, then stitched the edge for a loose ruffled look.  The hems were also zig-zag stitched, letting the pressure of the foot create soft rippled edges.


I can already envision other ways to make this top...different fabrics...perhaps a woven fabric for the shirred panel, perhaps a sheer knit or lace. Oh I have so many ideas...if only I had as much time !

Honored to have authored the ASG Magazine Cover Article

I was honored to be asked to write the cover article for the Fall 2009 edition of the American Sewing Guild's Magazine. 

Titled "Shirt Chic", the article includes my take on Choosing Fabrics, Fine-Tuning Construction, and Adding Designer Details.  

I hope that you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed writing 

it for you !

Japanese Shirt Pattern Journey...Fabric and Pattern Choices

Well...so far, so slow.   The good news is that a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern.  What I mean is that I am very familiar with shirt pattern "parts"...there isn't much I haven't seen after sewing hundreds of shirts I've either drafted from scratch or used patterns to make.  

The slow part is familiarizing myself with the methodology of this Japanese Shirtmaking book with no English translation. Specifically,  how these pattern pieces are drafted and how the seam allowance margins are allocated.  Because not all the seam allowances are the same width. This is a very good thing, and a sign of sophisticated drafting.  It saves time to have all the pieces fit together and not need trimming after the seams are sewn...it also saves fabric, always a good thing.  On the other hand, these patterns allocate allowances a bit differently than I do when I hand-draft a pattern. And since I want to give a fair review of these patterns, I'll cut the pieces their way...I am always open and eager to learn something new. So, This weekend I hope to get the pattern pieces traced and walked...but only after I've given my studio a good tidying up. 


For the first shirt using these patterns, I've chosen a fabric of good but not great quality. One that is good enough to get accurate results (no stretching or shrinking), but one that if it becomes a "give-away", I won't have regrets.   I try very hard to avoid "sewing regrets"  :) 

Exploring a Japanese ShirtMaking Book

 I've had this book for several months, and finally have the time to fully explore it and make a shirt from one of the many patterns that are included as separate traceable sheets.  Since I am not yet familiar with the fit of these patterns, my DH Roger will be my victim "fit model".   Of course, after I finish the shirt you will see it here along with a full review of this book.
 
I may decide to do a step-by step series of blog posts, or at least a few posts about the making of the shirt during the construction process....so stay tuned.
 
In the meantime, here is the book description from the seller, an Ebay Merchant I recommend,
SIMPLY PRETTY JAPANESE BOOKS.
Paperback: 79 pages
Publisher: Bunka Shuppan Kyoku (August 2006)
Language: Japanese
Book Weight: 425 Grams
19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men's Shirts for 4 Sizes.
Contents:

The book introduces 19 styles of variety kinds of men's shirts

Total: 19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men's Shirts for 4 Sizes.Paperback: 79 pages
Size Reference:
The book come with the full-scaled patterns for 4 Sizes: 
SMALL (Nude): Chest 90 cm, Waist 78cm, Height 155-165 CM.
MEDIUM (Nude): Chest 92 cm, Waist 80cm, Height 165-175 CM.
LARGE (Nude): Chest 94 cm, Waist 84cm, Height 175-185 CM.
EXTRA LARGE (Nude): Chest 98 cm, Waist 86cm, Height 185-195 CM.
 
This book certainly seems to have it all, including several collar and cuff styles..and a whole lot more!  Here are a couple of pics of the inside pages....

~ Click photos to enlarge, then click browser "back" button to return to this page ~

 

 

Pro-Weft, The Interfacing for ALL Seasons

Pro-Weft Fusible is the interfacing for "All Seasons" because it is a

knit and woven interfacing combined into one fabulous product that "breathes" because of its unique weave and its specially

formulated highly flexible fusible resin.

Available in both Natural or Black, It's terrific for tailoring...especially as a complete underlining for jackets and coats, wonderful for waistbands, and super for casual shirts. Pro-Weft is perfect for so many types of fabrics and weaves like Linen, Boucle, Silk, Gabardine, Wools, Denim, Twill, and more!

So... exactly what is it ?

A woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard has the lengthwise fiber threads (warp) and crosswise fiber threads (weft) woven together. PRO-WEFT is a special kind of "weft insertion" interfacing, where the fiber threads are first knit and then crosswise (weft) fiber threads are woven (inserted) into the knit yardage.

Woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard are totally stable. Knit interfacings like ProTricot are soft and stretchy. By combining the properties of both knits and wovens, PRO-WEFT is both stable and drapey, and it's special fusible resin makes it supremely soft and flexible ...and the **Most Versatile Interfacing** across the widest range of sewing applications.

Please visit ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~ for ordering information.

The Denim Shirt....Complete !

Finally....my client's shirt is complete 

and winging its way to him by Priority Mail !

I'd like to mention a few things about some of the details of this shirt.  In previous posts, I was undecided about how to best use the contrast side of the denim. As you can see, I ended up using the contrast for both of the front button plackets, the top of the pocket and  both sides of the collar stand (band). I decided to add a contrast detail to the sleeve, but I wanted it to be very subtle. So I made a 2-piece sleeve placket and used the contrast side of the fabric for the under-lap. You can see it peeking out of the unbuttoned cuff in this photo I hastily snapped just before the shirt was packed and sent on its way.  Oh...one more thing...if you notice that one sleeve appears longer than the other, it is because it was pulled forward for the photo.

Sewing Notes: Shirt is interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~. Fabric is from my shirt-making stash. Tan "faux-marble" buttons from the "light button" assortment at ~Fashion Sewing Supply~

A Special Shirt Collar...and its Pattern

Many of my clients remark that the collars of the shirts I design are very comfortable and that they don't have to fuss with them. That's because I specifically design shirt collars to follow the natural curves of the neck and shoulder.

Take a close look at the collar on the denim shirt I am currently making, shown below.  Most (if not all) commercial shirt patterns have collars with top edges that are just straight across or that have one long slight curve.  However, as you can see...I have drafted my collar pattern with curves that follow the natural shape of the body.  SEWING NOTE-This collar has been interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~.

Here is the pattern draft, first shown as a half-pattern, 

then again below as the full draft.

~ Click on photos to enlarge, click browser "Back" button to return to this page ~

Note that the bottom edge of each pattern shown is the neck edge, and that the pattern has been drafted with 3/8" seam allowances. It has been placed on a 1-inch square grid so that you can see the scale.  You are welcome to copy the pattern...however if you use my draft and post a photo of a shirt made with it, please link back to this post, and/or reference it. Thank-you...and I hope that you enjoy using this draft !

I've been asked about the collar stand (band) pattern that I usually use with the collar draft I showed above. Almost any stand can be used with this collar, as long as you draft the collar wide enough to cover the width of the stand (band).

So, here it is...you will notice it is fairly standard. 

It really is the refined shape of the collar (shown above) that allows it to fall so elegantly.

~ Click on photos to enlarge, click browser "Back" button to return to this page ~

The most Elegant of Interfacings...

~~Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE~~

The ultimate in fusible interfacing is now available exclusively at FASHION SEWING SUPPLY ! Over one year in development, Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing...is the the ultimate "low-temp" fusible interfacing for all knits and lightweight woven fabrics.

This sheer matte interfacing truly is different. Due to its unique weave and fiber content, it has controlled stretch in ALL directions. Pro-Sheer Elegance is made from a combination of Polyester, Rayon and Lycra, and can be fused at the "silk" setting of your iron. It does NOT shrink.

It is absolutely the most amazing interfacing
that we have ever experienced!
Pro-Sheer Elegance barely affects the drape of fabric,
yet will add enough support
for stable facings, buttonholes, etc.
It is sheer, matte, silky, 60" wide....absolutely fabulous!

Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE FUSIBLE,
90% Polyester, 9% Rayon, 1% Lycra -- 60" wide
COLORS-- White or Black
Please visit FASHION SEWING SUPPLY for more information.

Slow Going...

Some, but not much progress on this denim shirt!

Here is the shirt back, right off the bed of the machine and hastily pinned to my photo-wall.  It features an inverted top-stitched box pleat. The pleat is open for only about 14 inches. This will allow the shirt to be worn "out", but it will also look neat (and not lumpy) should my client decide to tuck the shirt in.  You'll also notice that I've added a loop at CB.  
 

My plan is to attach the yoke tonight, and apply the plackets to the sleeves. If I feel really productive, the fronts will be attached, along with the collar unit. But then again, there's always tomorrow...

Almost a Denim Shirt

Hastily pinned to the form, and still "Under Construction"....but so far I'm satisfied with how this denim shirt is turning out.

 It is being made for a favorite client of mine from a  fine cotton denim fabric that has a remarkably smooth reverse side. The reverse side of the fabric is so nice that it was able to utilize it for the front button plackets, collar stand and pocket.  I haven't cut the sleeve plackets  or cuffs yet, and I haven't yet decided to use the face or reverse side of the fabric for them.   

This is one of those shirts that can look "over-designed' or very contrived if too many contrasting elements are used.  So I'll play with scraps and see what happens. I hope to have this shirt finished within a few days.