THE COLLAR- Part 3, HotPatterns Blouse, Continued...

Continuing with the construction of this HotPatterns Blouse, it's time to attach the "Collar Unit" to the neck-edge of the garment.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THROUGHOUT THIS SERIES I AM DEMONSTRATING JUST ONE METHOD I UTILIZE TO SEW COLLARS TO SHIRTS. THERE ARE OTHER METHODS, THIS IS BUT ONE OF MANY.....


After gathering the fronts to fit the back shoulder (yoke)...the front, back, and yoke are completed and ready for the collar.




Match the center-back of the raw edge of the collar stand to the center-back of the garment's neck edge. Pin to hold.




Next, Match the center-front edges of the stand and blouse EXACTLY.




Now, begin to stitch them together. Start at the edge and continue to stitch towards the center back, FOR about ONE INCH. Then check to make sure the CF edges are still exactly even. It's much easier to remove one inch of stitching and re-align the edges now, rather than discover they are not even after the entire collar-band is stitched to the neckline!

Repeat on the other CF edge, then stitch the entire stand to the neckline.





Then tuck the seam allowances up and under the folded edge of the collar stand.



Continue to tuck the seam allowances under the folded edge of the collar stand, just barely covering the stitching line. You may find that using a glue-stick is helpful to hold the folded edge in position.




Next at the machine, with the INSIDE of the shirt facing up, begin to edge-stitch the band (collar stand) starting at center back as shown. Then continue to edge-stitch completely around the entire stand, ending where you began.



Now admire how nice your finished collar looks..inside and out!

So...What exactly *is* Weft-Insertion Interfacing?

So...What exactly *is* Weft Insertion Interfacing?

Essentially it is a combination of a woven and a knit interfacing in one!

A woven interfacing (like ProWoven Standard) has the lengthwise fiber threads (warp) and crosswise fiber threads (weft) woven together. With a weft-insertion Interfacing like ProWeft, the fiber threads are knit together and then crosswise (weft) fiber threads are woven (inserted) into the knit yardage.

Woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard are totally stable. Knit interfacing like ProTricot are soft and drapey. By combining the properties of both knits and wovens, **ProWeft is both stable and drapey.** ....making it supremely soft and flexible....and the **Most Versatile Interfacing** across a wide range of sewing applications!

I have even used it for shirt collars and cuffs!

THE COLLAR, Part 2- HotPatterns Blouse, Continued....

I finally completed some more sewing of this HotPatterns Blouse...despite being on strong medication while I stitched!

Previously I showed you how I construct a collar. Now I will show you how I sew the stand to the collar before attaching the complete "collar unit" to the neck-edge of the blouse. Please note that all collar seam allowances have been trimmed to 1/4" for ease of construction.

Here is one piece of the collar-stand. I have pressed up 1/4" on the straight edge of the stand as shown:



Next, I took an extra step and quickly basted this piece to the "UP-side / right side / Public side" of the collar. This stand piece will be the "inner band" when the blouse is complete.



Then, I made a "collar sandwich"....with the collar stands matched right-sides-together, and the collar between them. I stitched them together using small stitches when sewing the curved edges.








Here is a close-up of one end of
the stitched collar unit
ready to be turned and pressed.











After turning and pressing, here is the finished "Collar Unit"....ready to be sewn to the neck-edge of the blouse!

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THE COLLAR , Part 1 - HotPatterns Blouse, Continued...

I didn't get as much done on this blouse as I had planned today. But at least it is cut out, and the collar is completed!

Here is the collar, stitched, before turning. The seam allowances are only 1/4". That is because I reduced the pattern's 5/8" allowances to 1/4" before cutting the collar. It saves me time by not having to trim later, and uses less fabric.



This is a close-up of the stitched collar point. You will notice that I do NOT stop and pivot at the corner. I stitch until I am about 1/2" away from the collar point, change my stitch length to 1 (very tiny stitches), then stitch right off the edge. I am a firm believer that if you do not STITCH a point, you will not HAVE a point after the collar is turned and pressed.




Next, the point's seam allowances were trimmed like this:



Then I got to use one of my favorite "tools" to help turn the collar...a Hemostat...or as it's known in my shop, the "Collar Clamp" !




I folded all the seam allowances of the point to one side, and clamped them tightly in the "jaws" of the clamp. One of the jaws is up inside the collar, snugged into the right side of the point. The other jaw holds the seam allowances in place like this:



Since the clamp's jaws "lock" and holds itself together, I just turn the collar right sides out..up and over the jaws of the clamp. After both points of the collar were turned and pressed, I ended up with a nice, neat, sharp collar points...one of which is shown below in close-up.


SEWING NOTES:
Under-Collar Interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing.
Specially designed Hemostat tools called "Collar Clamps" NOW available at
~Fashion Sewing Supply~

She changed her mind!

Usually when I plan to sew in the evening and something interrupts me, I am one totally annoyed shirt-maker. But this time, the interruption was a pleasant one...and a timely one as it turned out.

The friend for whom I am making a blouse dropped by unexpectedly, made her way down to my studio, saw this fabric..and promptly changed her mind! We are still going to go with white collar and cuffs.....but this is the shirt fabric....the final choice...final...as in she doesn't get to change her mind again. {smile} I'm telling you..I was **this** close to cutting into the other fabric I posted a pic of yesterday !

To the best of my recollection,this Italian cotton shirting fabric was purchased from GORGEOUS FABRICS last year.

HotPatterns Plain and Simple Boxy Blouse, Let's Start!

As mentioned in a previous post, I am choosing to make the HotPatterns Boxy Blouse as the demonstration garment during my time as "Cheerleader" for the Yahoo Groups Creative Machine's "Shirt Challenge".

The fabric has been chosen...a fabulous shirting fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics (purchased quite a while ago). A navy, white, and peach stripe for the body and sleeves, with white collars and cuffs.


The fabric is pre-washed...all ready to go!

However after talking to the friend for whom I am making this shirt...she told me she would rather not have bust darts. That's just as well as I do not see her often enough to make dart fitting changes. So I turned the side bust dart into shoulder gathers with a very quick and easy method...a simple rotation of the side dart to the shoulder seam.

1. I traced a copy of the shirt-front.


2. Next, I marked a line from mid-shoulder to the dart tip.


3. The line was slashed to the tip of the dart.


4. Next the side bust dart was folded-out..."Auto-magically" transferring the fullness to the shoulder seam.


5. A scrap of paper was placed under the open shoulder wedge, and then the new shoulder-line was drawn.


6. The scrap paper was taped to the pattern, and the excess trimmed...to reveal the new shirt front. Now the pattern has gathers at the shoulder, rather than a bust dart.



Tonight I will cut out the pattern, and begin to sew!

Not A Pretty Picture...or Why Pre-washing Fabric is Important !

Oh Yes my friends, it's NOT a pretty picture...but this is the resulting wash water as it went down the drain... after putting some very nice fabric through a plain warm water (no detergent!) wash....YUCK!

From my experience in the fabric business, visiting mills and converters, I think there are at least 3 reasons why pre-washing fabric is necessary.

1. To remove the sizing, excess dye, etc.

2. Fabric Mills and most warehouses can be dirty places. So Wash that fabric...you don't where it's been!

3. When fabric is milled/manufactured it is pulled and stretched a few times before it ends up on the selling floor of fabric stores. This pulling and stretching is a consequence of getting it into sale-able form for the home sewing consumer:

First, it is loomed, then it is rolled under tension onto tubes, then people called "converters" use "double and rolling" machines to fold the fabric and roll it onto bolt boards. During these processes, the fabric is rolled under considerable tension to make the rolls (and then the bolts), as tight as possible......to make them as compact as possible for ease of shipping and other reasons.

So, often it is necessary to wash fabrics before sewing just to relax them (not to mention that dirt and sizing)....*sometimes* that is why they "shrink"...they are merely relaxing back to their original loomed proportions.

Flying in The Face of Convention!

Who says Men's shirts have to be all buttoned-up with a collar on a stand? Not me!


I designed this casual shirt in 2003...and still continue to make it for clients today.....especially for my clients in very warm climates.


Made from a very lightweight hemp/linen blend, this shirt features modified double breasted styling, sleeves with a single pleat at the cap, and wood buttons.

Perfect Pockets Every Time!

In my search to streamline construction while maintaining the utmost quality of the shirts I design, I developed an easy way to ensure perfectly symmetrical pockets.

First, change your pocket pattern by reducing the side and bottom seam allowances to no more than 3/8".

To help with accuracy while cutting, place your fabric on a stable padded surface, such as your ironing board. Stab-pin the pattern through the fabric and into the padded surface, as shown below. By pinning in this manner the fabric will not shift as the pocket is cut.







With Wrong side UP, press the seam allowances of ONE side and ONE angle edge, as shown below. You now have half of the pocket seam allowances pressed to the wrong side. Normally we would continue to press all the seam allowances to the wrong side, but by doing that we often end up with a pocket with odd angles and unequal side edges.





Fold the pocket in half RIGHT sides together at the point, matching the top edges as shown below.






Next, press the remaining seam allowances TO MATCH THE PREVIOUSLY PRESSED (folded) EDGES. Don't worry if the seam allowances vary in width. The goal is to have a finished pocket with its edges even...NOT the seam allowances!






Now we need to address the pocket's top (hem) edge. Before folding and pressing it into position, slide the top edges of the seam allowances IN a scant 1/8" as shown below. By doing this, bulk is reduced when stitching the pocket to the garment.







Finish the top edge of the pocket hem as desired. Fold down to the wrong side and press.


Place the pocket right side up and press. The corners and point will miter "auto-magically".
The finished pocket will have sharp point, perfect angles, and all edges will be even!

Hosting The CREATIVE MACHINE this week!

I am pleased to be hosting the Creative Machine (Yahoo Group)
this week, and kicking off the Shirt Challenge that will be running for the next 4 weeks! Join us at the Creative Machine (Yahoo Group) for all the details!

P.S. ..at the end of the challenge there will be a drawing for prizes!

Hot Patterns Plain and Simple Blouse

This is the fabulous Hot Patterns shirt/blouse pattern that I will be making to demonstrate various shirt sewing techniques during my week hosting the CREATIVE MACHINE at Yahoo, and continuing throughout the duration of the Shirt-Challenge.


An easy-to-wear modern classic with a retro twist, this sharp Blouse is perfect for any crisp blouse-weight fabric, especially menswear-style cotton or silk shirting fabrics.
Boxy-fit Blouse has a classic 2-piece collar with stand , yoke and bust darts. Blouse features 3/4 length sleeves gathered onto a slim cuff and side slits at the hem.
Try this crisp but feminine Blouse under a sharp business suit for the office, or wear it with your favorite jeans or chinos and a cozy cardigan on the weekend.


I have made this pattern before and absolutely LOVE it!

Ruthless Washing Pays Off !

I recently received an email from a sewing-friend who asked,

" ...Sometimes even though I pre-shrink my fabrics, the seams of the shirts I sew will pucker slightly. I assume this is because my thread shrinks. Is there a thread I should be using that won't shrink?"

This was my answer...

Chances are it is not shrinking thread causing the puckers....although, do check your machine's tension and make sure it's balanced.

Beyond that......

When you pre-shrink your fabric,
do it "RUTHLESSLY" !

I tell my shirt-making students to pre-treat (pre-wash) their fabric without mercy! {smile} ...in other words, if you plan to wash the finished garment in warm water and dry on medium heat, make sure you pre-treat (pre-wash) your fabric in HOT water and dry in a HOT dryer (this is presuming cotton or linen or other natural fabric that can handle hot washing).

If you plan to wash the finished garment in cold water and dry with gentle heat, make sure you pre-treat (pre-wash) your fabric in WARM water and dry in a WARM dryer.

If your yardage needs pressing after the pre-washing process...make SURE you DO NOT STRETCH the yardage.

While stitching, use the "Taut Sewing Technique" -- hold the fabric both behind and in front of the needle, so that the fabric is taut as it travels under the foot. Don't pull hard, just make sure it is "taut".

That should help prevent those pesky puckers!

Two Shirts...One Client

I heard from a favorite client of mine recently. He wanted 2 shirts made, and luckily I still had the fabric he wanted in stock. This very stylish man always has design details in mind, and was quite specific about what he wanted....but as always, left the "fine" details up to me.

My client wanted this blue shirt styled to be worn "tucked in". When drafting the pattern, I lengthened the shirt-tails so that when he moved his arms, the shirt would stay tucked. The drape of this royal blue Swiss cotton is extraordinary, so instead of drafting the sleeves "straight", I bowed (curved) them out slightly to produce a subtle soft drape when worn. Other design details include bias front button stand and bias sleeve plackets.


This Band Collar shirt is made from fabric that is more crisp than the blue shirt above. The characteristics of the fabric dictated my design choices. This shirt is cut with what I call "straight line" details. The sleeves are straight cut, rather than curved like the shirt above, and the sleeve cuffs are angled, as is the "spade" hem.

I am pleased with the way both shirts turned out.....and so is my client, who payed me promptly and added a tip! :)

Sewing Notes: ProWoven Fusible Interfacing used on the blue shirt, ProWeft Fusible Interfacing used on the cream shirt.


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Holiday Gift Sewing for the "Little Divas"

Wow....I didn't realize how long it's been since I've posted to this blog! We've been very busy at ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ selling yards and yards of our exclusive interfacing and other products, and of course I've been up late sewing shirts for my clients!

But in my "spare time" (!!!) I managed to sew several outfits for my nieces' holiday gifts. Here are just a few of many..........

~YOU CAN CLICK PICS TO ENLARGE AND SEE DETAILS~

This tunic, made from cotton/lycra knit with an inset of woven cotton print is a "tweaked" version of an Ottobre Design pattern. The jeans with decorative seams are of my own design and made with a glorious cross-weave denim from Gorgeous Fabrics.

This "mod" tunic was made from fabulously soft jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics, and wide wale corduroy from a chain fabric store. The Tunic design is a "tweaked" version of an Ottobre Design Pattern. The jeans in this pic and all the others are from a pattern I drafted myself.

This simple little cross-over Top is made from soft cotton knit fabric found online. The only change made to the Ottobre Design pattern used, was adding lettuce-edge ribbing to the neckline.

The Top with metal eyelet twill-tape trim is made from super-thick black cotton velour. It has a mock-turtleneck, and was made from a basic Ottobre T-shirt pattern. The elastic-back jeans are fashioned from wonderful stretch-corduroy from Trendy Fabrics...found there at a super low price!

Made from another fabulous fabric find from Trendy Fabrics, this cute berry print stretch corduroy top is a variation of an Ottobre Design pattern. Matching berry corduroy, again from Trendy Fabrics made up into super-soft jeans.

This variation on a classic peasant blouse is an Ottobre Design....made from yet another fabulously soft stretch corduroy from Trendy Fabrics!

Can you believe I had this cute fabric in my stash for years? I really like the way my variation of an Ottobre Design pattern turned out...so bright and happy!

I think I have every fabulous stretch corduroy that Trendy Fabrics has in stock this season! This time the print stretch corduroy matched perfectly with the stretch velour used for my "tweaked" version of an Ottobre Design pattern.

Fleece from a chain fabric store is used in this variation of an Ottobre Design pattern. My variation features a double-lettuce ribbing neckline.

Plum stretch cord and a cute butterfly cotton interlock both from Trendy Fabrics makes a fun outfit. Again, this tunic top is a variation of a "tweaked" Ottobre Design pattern.

Bright cuddly fleece from a chain fabric store plus a basic Ottobre T-shirt pattern makes a very fun shirt with a jagged-edge batik applique.

Another fleece top with raw-edge strips of fabric used at neck and hems that also features eyelet trim.

Shirts Against Isolation by Kateřina Šedá

From the pages of Trendletter at Fashion Office .org

Kateřina Šedá, Každej pes, jiná ves – Hemden, 2007. Courtesy Franco Soffiantino Arte Contemporanea, Turin

Shirts against Isolation Kateřina Šedá (born 1977 in Brno, lives in Brno and Prague) uses different media to initiate an artistic process. This exhibition presents several projects with installations, drawings, videos,... by the artist; one of these projects is titled after an Czech saying “Každej pes, jiná ves” (literally: “For every dog, a different village,” 2007). Šedá took an entire neighborhood as the object of her action, the “Plattenbau” concrete slab housing estate Nová Líšen in her hometown, Brno-Líšen, where the people live isolated from one another. Šedá produced 1000 shirts for 1000 households. She designed a pattern for the shirts showing the colorful concrete slab buildings in a repeating pattern - in the style of textile diamonds. She paired up the families according to a formalist diagram that she created, based on the ground plan of the development, and then sent each household a shirt “from” their partner family. Through this, Šedá sets in motion the possibility of a meeting, in which she is, however, not personally involved. She directs, but then withdraws, leaving things to take their course.

Read more about Katerina Seda here at the Exhibit Site

"Make These Shirts For Me!"

I opened my mail this morning to find these photos sent by one of my clients. These shirts are from the "Vivienne Westwood Man" collection.

(Click on photo to enlarge and see detail, use browser "Back Button" to return to Blog)

My client loves the funky look of these shirts (so do I), but wants me to "interpret" these styles to fit into his more conventional wardrobe.

This will be a fun assignment. I like many of the design details, but will lose the mismatched button/buttonholes while keeping the asymmetric shirt fronts with the V-shaped insets. Those funky back darts? Those will be going...going...gone! While cool for many I'm sure, they just look odd and rather contrived to me...or like a Home-Ec project gone way wrong!

Stay tuned for my shirt inspired by these designs....

Prince Seam Shirt with Bias Details

(Click photo to enlarge and see detail, click browser "back-button" to return to blog)

This "Prince Seam" shirt is made from an unusual corded rayon/cotton blend shirting. The fabric has a slight sheen and was a delight to cut and sew. An Original design, the side panel and sleeve plackets were cut on the bias to highlight the characteristics of the fabric.

Dress Shirt With Bias Details and Curved Collar

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This shirt, made from Swiss cotton, features a bias button placket, and bias sleeve plackets. Another feature is the collar, which has a curved edge. The pattern was drafted by hand, and is an original design. You may notice that the sleeve plackets are very long, yet do not have buttons. The lack of buttons on the sleeve plackets is what my client prefers, and the customer is always right!





This Photo shows the collar, which features a curved outer edge. When the shirt is worn, the curved collar sits perfectly on the shoulders, without wanting to "flip up".








(Click On Photo to enlarge and see detail, Click "back-Button" to return to Blog)