OTC-011 Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~: TUTORIAL- Felled Shoulder/Sleeve Cap Seam Technique (revisited) <body><script type="text/javascript"> function setAttributeOnload(object, attribute, val) { if(window.addEventListener) { window.addEventListener('load', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }, false); } else { window.attachEvent('onload', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }); } } </script> <div id="navbar-iframe-container"></div> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://apis.google.com/js/plusone.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> gapi.load("gapi.iframes:gapi.iframes.style.bubble", function() { if (gapi.iframes && gapi.iframes.getContext) { gapi.iframes.getContext().openChild({ url: 'https://www.blogger.com/navbar.g?targetBlogID\x3d10604511\x26blogName\x3dOff+The+Cuff+++++++++~Sewing+Style~\x26publishMode\x3dPUBLISH_MODE_BLOGSPOT\x26navbarType\x3dTAN\x26layoutType\x3dCLASSIC\x26searchRoot\x3dhttp://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/search\x26blogLocale\x3den\x26v\x3d2\x26homepageUrl\x3dhttp://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/\x26vt\x3d-8353236290006727714', where: document.getElementById("navbar-iframe-container"), id: "navbar-iframe" }); } }); </script>

10/06/2010

TUTORIAL- Felled Shoulder/Sleeve Cap Seam Technique (revisited)

  Since I am unable to sew because of my health, and because I have so many new blog followers since I first published this tutorial, I thought it was due for a "revisit".

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Progress on the Vintage Mens Shirt continues!



Now the sleeves are sewn...and I thought you might be interested in seeing how these sleeves are drafted and set. It is done differently than most methods seen in modern printed patterns.



(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)



Take a look at these pattern pieces. I've marked the stitching lines so that you can see that the sleeve seam allowance is twice as wide as the corresponding seam on the shirt back (and front, not shown). The seam allowance of the sleeve is 1", and the armscye seam allowance is 1/2".

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)


As you can see in the photo below, when the stitching line of the sleeve and armscye are matched (right sides together), the sleeve cap allowance extends beyond that of the shirt. The sleeve is set by stitching along the stitching line of the armscye. It's much easier to do if you first mark the 1/2" seam allowance as you can see by the blue lines. When you've set sleeves this way several times, you can just do it by sight. In fact, when I hand-draft shirts, I almost always draft the sleeve allowance at twice the width of the armscye allowance.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)


Here is the sleeve set into the armscye, from the wrong side. Because the sleeve seam allowance is wider, it is "auto-magically" ready to be felled...with no trimming needed!

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)


To begin felling the seam, just fold and press the larger (wide) sleeve seam allowance over the smaller (narrow) one, enclosing it. In the lower portion of photo below, the larger seam allowance is folded over the smaller,  and still open near the top of the photo.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)


When the sleeve allowance is completely pressed over the armscyce allowance... next press BOTH allowances towards the shirt. Look...an "instant" felled seam !

(Click Pic to enlarge, use browser "back button" to return)


All that remains to finish setting the sleeves is to topstitch a scant 1/2" away from the well of the seam from the RIGHT SIDE, through all layers....as shown below.

(Click Pic to enlarge, use "back button" to return)

And this is how the felled sleeve seam looks from the wrong side, after the topstitching is complete. Nice and smooth, neat and easy...with no raw edges.

What do you think? Please add a comment by clicking here-->

19 Comments:

Blogger Bunny said...

Great tutorial! As far as I am concerned, feel free to put up tutes and other past goodies until you are well. None of us have seen everything on everyone's blog and yours has so much great shirt tailoring info as well as inspiration for children's clothing. I hope you are just relaxing and taking time to visit other blogs and not worry about your own. To everything there is a season and a time for every purpose......

7:50 AM  
Blogger Gigi said...

Thanks, Pam, I needed a refresher!

Don't worry about keeping up your blog, your health is more important! Everyone will still be here once you are feeling better. Big hugs! Gigi

8:50 AM  
Blogger Connie said...

Sorry to hear you are still not well. Your tutorials are worth repeating.

9:35 AM  
Blogger Rose said...

Thank you for another helpful tutorial, Pam. It's a new one for me. Get better soon!

10:29 AM  
Blogger Sigrid said...

Get well soon Pam! In the meantime it's good to read the tutorials again, agree that they are worth repeating.

11:25 AM  
Blogger Renee said...

Thank you for re-posting this. I seriously was just pondering how to do this best when I was in the shower this morning! This is really helpful for me. As the others said, I too hope you are well again soon.

11:29 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Love this! I have never seen this method before and will really give it a try. I need to perfect my shirt sewing. Thanks.

12:39 PM  
Blogger CreativeMama said...

I had used this technique after i saw your earlier post on this and gifted my hubby a shirt for his birthday last year... your instructions are simple and clear. Thanks

2:23 PM  
Blogger gwensews said...

Feel better soon.

3:50 PM  
Anonymous Echo said...

Hi Pam - thank you for this very clear tutorial and do relax and rest. I hope you are feeling well soon.

4:30 PM  
Blogger Handmade said...

Thank you for the lovely tutorial - lovely seam - hope you feel better soon!

4:54 PM  
Blogger Summerset said...

Pam, thank you for reposting! I do hope that you're resting and doing all you can to be as healthy as possible. Hugs to you!

6:12 PM  
Anonymous ChristineB said...

Thanks for the repost! I'm starting on a new shirt and will definitely try this out.

9:08 PM  
Anonymous Karen Minturn Brown said...

Pam, I hope your situation improves very soon.

9:34 PM  
Blogger Cactusneedle said...

What a great idea! I would have never thought of that on my own, but seems so "duh" once you see it. Thanks!

10:42 PM  
Blogger Caryn said...

I am so dumb with tutorials... I don't get it. I guess I will try with some scrap and just those parts of a pattern. Has anyone done a tutorial on this?

7:43 AM  
Anonymous phoebegrant said...

Thanks for the great tutorial. Repeats are fine by me, but make sure you take enough time for your own healing. I've book-marked this so I can refer again.

4:48 PM  
Blogger Cristian said...

Pardon me if I missed it anywhere, but do you include ease in your sleeves or is the cap=armscye circumference?

1:43 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Cristian...usually I add very minimal ease when I draft my own shirt patterns (which is 99% of the time).

However, when I use a vintage pattern or test a commercial pattern, I shrink out the cape ease if it is excessive. It it easy to do, and I'll be posting a short tutorial about how I do this very soon.

7:49 AM  

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