Sewing Tutorial- "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

Recently I made this custom shirt for one of my clients from light-weight distressed denim. It is one of my original designs and features  pin-tucks on the pocket and right front...and special "Cuffed-Hems" on the sleeves (see Tutorial below).  The Coconut Shell Buttons and Pro-Weft Interfacing used on this shirt are from www.FashionSewingSupply.

How to make a "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

For an approximately 1" finished Cuffed-Hem, you only need to make one simple change to your sleeve pattern. Just change the hem allowance to 2.25 inches (2-1/4"), as shown in this sample pattern.

After cutting out your sleeve, turn the bottom (hem edge) of the sleeve to the Wrong side by 1-1/8", then turn it again by the same amount (1-1/8"), then Press.  All we are doing here is "turning it twice to the wrong side" by 1-1/8" each time...just as if we were making a double hem.  This photo shows the bottom edge turned twice. The sleeve is shown photographed from the side so that you can see the folds--

When the folds have been pressed completely flat, take your sleeve to the sewing machine. 

Now Top-Stitch along the Bottom Edge  about 1/4", through all the layers. After stitching, this is what the sleeve will look like from the Wrong Side--

To finish the Cuffed-Hem, turn down the top fold (the one that was NOT stitched) and press. 

Here is what the finished Cuffed-Hem Sleeve looks like from the right side and the wrong side. The wrong side will have the raw edge enclosed, and the right side will have the Cuffed "Lip" that was formed when you stitched it!

BE LINEN...a fascinating short film....

...with wonderfully beautiful photography that follows this amazing fiber

from field to fabric to fashion. I will never take linen for granted again.

BE LINEN MOVIE from Benoit MILLOT on Vimeo.

BIG Thanks to Vogue Patterns Magazine !

What an honor it is for my business,

Fashion Sewing Supply, to be featured in the current (April/May 2011) issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine! 

An editor contacted me several weeks ago to let me know that my business had been chosen to be among 4 featured in the "Web Watch" Editorial.  No, it's not an advertisement...they found us worthy of inclusion

...and I am beyond thrilled!

Here's what they had to say....

Their Favorite Shirt...by the dozen!

 

This shirt style is one of my original designs, and continues to be the most requested style by my clients.

I have clients who order this "Island Shirt" by the dozen...but this weekend I only made 3, including this one from distressed white linen. It has a nice trim fit, and looks good made from many different fabrics.  I always enjoy making this style...it is my very favorite :)

A Light and Breezy Shirt, on it's way to Belize...

Made from very lightweight Oxford Cloth, this shirt was designed for one of my clients. Since he lives in the tropics and does most of his business poolside, he wanted a shirt that was loose and breezy with "just a little hint of businessman".  That is why I chose the lightweight oxford stripe, but used it in a very casual way. 

I just sent him this photo, and I am happy to say that he likes it !  And he wants a few more in other colors :)

On another note, my husband  Roger saw this shirt and wants a similar one to wear to his daughter's graduation from Florida Gulf Coast University. Good thing he doesn't need it until the end of April...because I have a list of things to sew for myself over the next few weeks :)

Now back to the machines...more shirts for clients to sew...

A Shirt in Pieces...

There actually has been some sewing going on around here :)   

My clients want new custom shirts, ASAP!

 

Here is what is on the machine right now...please pardon my hasty pinning of the pieces on my photo-wall. Later today it will be a short sleeve shirt with a contrast under-placket, piped pocket, and contrast inner band collar. I designed and drafted the pattern by hand. 

Buttons were quickly placed on the left front of this green striped oxford cloth shirt. Of course they will actually be sewn onto the right contrast under-placket...but I wanted to preview my selection where they will be seen when the shirt is "on the body".  I am quite pleased with the color and style of the buttons I decided to use...one of our new Italian Designer Shirt Button styles, color-Latte, from Fashion Sewing Supply.

So stay tuned for a photo of the finished shirt, I should have it posted here first thing tomorrow :)

Computer Woes :(

Hi everyone !

There are some things in life that just happen...sigh.  Over the weekend my 7 year old computer went "poof"! It died and I lost everything that wasn't backed up. And what was backed up..well...some of it is not compatible with Windows 7...like blog posts I had prepared off-line with Microsoft Works...which doesn't exist on the new system I had to rush out and buy this past Sunday.

So bear with me as I go through some OMG days trying to get new blog posts and photos that were saved to disk to download on my new system..sigh..sigh...sigh.

OK..time for another phone convo with the "Geek Squad" !