Two Shirts...One Client
I heard from a favorite client of mine recently. He wanted 2 shirts made, and luckily I still had the fabric he wanted in stock. This very stylish man always has design details in mind, and was quite specific about what he wanted....but as always, left the "fine" details up to me.
My client wanted this blue shirt styled to be worn "tucked in". When drafting the pattern, I lengthened the shirt-tails so that when he moved his arms, the shirt would stay tucked. The drape of this royal blue Swiss cotton is extraordinary, so instead of drafting the sleeves "straight", I bowed (curved) them out slightly to produce a subtle soft drape when worn. Other design details include bias front button stand and bias sleeve plackets.
This Band Collar shirt is made from fabric that is more crisp than the blue shirt above. The characteristics of the fabric dictated my design choices. This shirt is cut with what I call "straight line" details. The sleeves are straight cut, rather than curved like the shirt above, and the sleeve cuffs are angled, as is the "spade" hem.
I am pleased with the way both shirts turned out.....and so is my client, who payed me promptly and added a tip! :)
Sewing Notes:
ProWoven Fusible Interfacing used on the blue shirt, ProWeft Fusible Interfacing used on the cream shirt.
Labels: INTERFACING, Shirt Designs, Spade Hem
11 Comments:
WOW, they both look outstanding!
They are both fabulous! And thanks for the sleeve shape details ~ deliciously done. It's also great to see what interfacings you've chosen...they are the absolute best I've ever used. So I have many thanks flying your way :)
Pamela...you are such a talent! Love the shirts!
With friendship,
Lisa
Beautiful! Such details, great job!
I wish I could sew like that, they are both perfect!
I'm so glad you made the point about fabric dictating design details. It is such an important point in ending up with a pleasing garment. Pam, I always love seeing your work. I can only imagine how much your clients must appreciate you.
Miriam
Fabulous shirts! Your attention to detail is amazing as is your talent. Thinking of you!
Pamela, Have you ever cut a woven cotton sleeve on the bias?
Hello Michelle....yes, I have often cut sleeves on the bias in many kinds of fabrics, including cotton. Cutting a short sleeve on bias makes for a particularly nice drape.
Thanks so much for your reply. I am using fabric with a large print for a tunic. My client wants a more fitted sleeve so I am cutting a two piece sleeve in order to utilize the print the way I want, which happens to be on the bias. I have never used bias for a fitted sleeve but I don't see why it won't work.
Thanks for your reply. The sleeve is slightly fitted in two pieces so that I can use only what I want of a fabric that has a large central motif. I have never used bias for a fitted sleeve but I do not see why it will not work.
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