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10/04/2009

The Denim Shirt....Complete !


Mens Denim Shirt_blog
Finally....my client's shirt is complete 
and winging its way to him by Priority Mail !

I'd like to mention a few things about some of the details of this shirt.  In previous posts, I was undecided about how to best use the contrast side of the denim. As you can see, I ended up using the contrast for both of the front button plackets, the top of the pocket and  both sides of the collar stand (band). I decided to add a contrast detail to the sleeve, but I wanted it to be very subtle. So I made a 2-piece sleeve placket and used the contrast side of the fabric for the under-lap. You can see it peeking out of the unbuttoned cuff in this photo I hastily snapped just before the shirt was packed and sent on its way.  Oh...one more thing...if you notice that one sleeve appears longer than the other, it is because it was pulled forward for the photo.
Sewing Notes: Shirt is interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~. Fabric is from my shirt-making stash. Tan "faux-marble" buttons from the "light button" assortment at ~Fashion Sewing Supply~

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9/24/2009

Almost a Denim Shirt

Hastily pinned to the form, and still "Under Construction"....but so far I'm satisfied with how this denim shirt is turning out.

Almost ...A Denim Shirt
 It is being made for a favorite client of mine from a  fine cotton denim fabric that has a remarkably smooth reverse side. The reverse side of the fabric is so nice that it was able to utilize it for the front button plackets, collar stand and pocket.  I haven't cut the sleeve plackets  or cuffs yet, and I haven't yet decided to use the face or reverse side of the fabric for them.   

This is one of those shirts that can look "over-designed' or very contrived if too many contrasting elements are used.  So I'll play with scraps and see what happens. I hope to have this shirt finished within a few days.

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7/24/2009

A Classic Summer Shirt...of Light Textured Silk

A Classic Summer Sport Shirt

I recently designed this Classic Summer Sport Shirt
for one of my favorite clients.


Made from the lightweight textured silk shirting pictured to the left, it features a pocket and sleeves accented with piping.

To give this 1950's inspired shirt a modern look, it also features a straight-edge collar stand and an angled "Spade Hem".

SEWING NOTES: Original design hand-drafted pattern, Fabric from my collection of shirting fabrics, Collar unit interfaced with PRO-SHEER ELEGANCE Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

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7/27/2008

Men's Shirt of Cool, Comfortable, Distressed Linen

An original design by Pamela Erny, This slouchy Distressed Linen men's shirt is meant to be "Casually Couture"...its slightly rumpled look is entirely intentional.

Slouchy Linen Men's Shirt by Pamela Erny

Design features include a Band Collar, Decorative Seaming with bias details, Comfortable Sleeves that drape in soft folds, a Spade Hem, and Metal Buttons.

Sewing notes: Linen Fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics, Collar interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply, Buttons from Fashion Sewing Supply.

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2/12/2008

Two Shirts...One Client

I heard from a favorite client of mine recently. He wanted 2 shirts made, and luckily I still had the fabric he wanted in stock. This very stylish man always has design details in mind, and was quite specific about what he wanted....but as always, left the "fine" details up to me.

My client wanted this blue shirt styled to be worn "tucked in". When drafting the pattern, I lengthened the shirt-tails so that when he moved his arms, the shirt would stay tucked. The drape of this royal blue Swiss cotton is extraordinary, so instead of drafting the sleeves "straight", I bowed (curved) them out slightly to produce a subtle soft drape when worn. Other design details include bias front button stand and bias sleeve plackets.


This Band Collar shirt is made from fabric that is more crisp than the blue shirt above. The characteristics of the fabric dictated my design choices. This shirt is cut with what I call "straight line" details. The sleeves are straight cut, rather than curved like the shirt above, and the sleeve cuffs are angled, as is the "spade" hem.

I am pleased with the way both shirts turned out.....and so is my client, who payed me promptly and added a tip! :)

Sewing Notes: ProWoven Fusible Interfacing used on the blue shirt, ProWeft Fusible Interfacing used on the cream shirt.

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7/12/2007

Batik "Spade Hem" Shirt

Click Photo to enlarge, Click Back-button to return to blog


Yet another shirt for my husband's wardrobe! This shirt with collar-on-stand features banded sleeves, a seamed bias pocket, and a "Spade Hem". A Spade Hem is sharply angled rather than the usual straight or curved hems found on most shirts.

The Collar and Sleeve Bands are interfaced with Pro-Weft Interfacing.

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