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Shirt Collar Construction, a Quick Tutorial for Better Collar Points...

Over the years I've found that I get the sharpest and strongest Collar points if I seal the point "area" before and after it is sewn. It not only helps to have sealed fabric when I turn the collar...my clients get a shirt collar that is far less likely to fray over time.  Here's what we do in my ~Off The Cuff~ ShirtMaking studio when making collars from Cotton or Linen fabrics:

After the collar is interfaced with Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp, I saturate all 4 of the point "areas"  (two each, upper and under collar) with seam sealant. Then...and this is important...to prevent any darkening or shadows from the sealant, I dry the wet sealed areas right away by pressing with a very warm iron.  (Note-- Make sure the seam sealant will NOT change the color of your fabric by testing on a scrap piece before applying to your collar pieces!)

Then, after the collar is stitched...one more drop of seam sealant is applied to just the area where the stitching intersects (at the very points of the collar)...to seal the stitches. And again, it is dried quickly with a warm iron.  Note-- This sealing procedure is also done on the Shirt Cuffs.

Now the collar is ready to be turned and then attached to the stand...with collar points that will endure even the harshest commercial laundry!

SEWING NOTES: Collar Interfaced with Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Interfacing from  Fashion Sewing Supply.


What do you think? Please add a comment by clicking here-->


Blogger Karen said...

I had not thought of doing that. How close do you trim the point? Well, maybe that is answered in the other two links - i'll go look there. Thank you for sharing such a good tip, I'm always afraid to trim 'too close'!

5:23 PM  
Blogger Solange said...

I would never use FrayCheck on a garment I was sewing because it leaves a white residue.

5:27 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Solange, that's why I advise testing ;) I have been a professional Custom ShirtMaker for well over 20 years, and have been using Fray Check and June Tailor's "Fray Block" on my garments for many years, without incident(after testing on a scrap, as advised). One of the ways to avoid "marking or shadows" is to dry the sealant quickly with an dry iron.

But regardless, we all have our own preferences...I am merely sharing one of my favorite techniques :)

8:21 PM  
Blogger Karla said...

I used seam sealants all the time, without getting a white residue. A shiny look, if I'm not careful, but never a white residue. June Tailor's is the one I prefer because it has less gloss.

Good tutorial, Pam. Your method beats mine, which involves going into the bathroom and firing up the hairdryer.

9:34 PM  
Blogger Evelyne said...

Thanks Pam - have just started to sew my first shirt and have used your Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp - but didn't used fray-check. Will now go and turn the collar back and use both the fray-check and the clamp, which I also have - forgot about this gadget. Thanks for the reminder and tute.

4:46 PM  
Blogger Handmade said...

Amazing!!! Thanks!

1:25 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Awesome Pammie! I have used both types of seam chemical on buttonholes with no worries. Now I will try it on the next shirt collar I sew.


6:45 AM  
Blogger JustGail said...

Interesting tip on the seam sealant. Question - does the sealant stay soft, or does it harden? I'm asking because the last time I used the stuff (on a sweater where the yarns came apart) the sealant turned hard. It may very well have been a case of not the intended use (too much used) or maybe the formula has changed over the years? Thanks!

9:25 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Gail, I always do a test on a scrap of fabric to see how it will react. I have found that when used on 100 cotton% I get good results. If it does feel a little stiff, I have found that the first time the garment is washed, it softens.

But always test on a scrap of fabric first :)

1:10 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hello starting too learn so much from the site thanx so much and the cowl collar tute. so great that you are doing this for us

11:40 PM  
Anonymous Zoë said...

Hi Pam,

I just wanted to thank you for this advice on using Fray Check. I tried your method of drying it with a warm iron when making some buttonholes recently and it worked like a charm!


3:54 PM  

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