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3/25/2011

Sewing Tutorial- "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve


Recently I made this custom shirt for one of my clients from light-weight distressed denim. It is one of my original designs and features  pin-tucks on the pocket and right front...and special "Cuffed-Hems" on the sleeves (see Tutorial below).  The Coconut Shell Buttons and Pro-Weft Interfacing used on this shirt are from www.FashionSewingSupply.


How to make a "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

For an approximately 1" finished Cuffed-Hem, you only need to make one simple change to your sleeve pattern. Just change the hem allowance to 2.25 inches (2-1/4"), as shown in this sample pattern.


After cutting out your sleeve, turn the bottom (hem edge) of the sleeve to the Wrong side by 1-1/8", then turn it again by the same amount (1-1/8"), then Press.  All we are doing here is "turning it twice to the wrong side" by 1-1/8" each time...just as if we were making a double hem.  This photo shows the bottom edge turned twice. The sleeve is shown photographed from the side so that you can see the folds--



When the folds have been pressed completely flat, take your sleeve to the sewing machine. 
Now Top-Stitch along the Bottom Edge  about 1/4", through all the layers. After stitching, this is what the sleeve will look like from the Wrong Side--




To finish the Cuffed-Hem, turn down the top fold (the one that was NOT stitched) and press. 
Here is what the finished Cuffed-Hem Sleeve looks like from the right side and the wrong side. The wrong side will have the raw edge enclosed, and the right side will have the Cuffed "Lip" that was formed when you stitched it!

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12 Comments:

Anonymous sewsusie said...

Thanks so much for taking the time to make the tutorials for us. I am an advanced seamstress and have taken several tailoring classes in college but I always learn new techniques from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

1:46 PM  
Blogger JudiB said...

Great tip, thanks so much for sharing. Love your blog.

Judi B.
Ontario

2:19 PM  
Blogger bampitt said...

That is so awesome! And so easy!! Thank you for the tutorial. My husband will love that when I make his shirts.

5:50 PM  
Blogger Summerset said...

Thank you for another great tutorial!

8:48 AM  
Blogger Claire (aka Seemane) said...

Great tutorial, thank you for sharing (once again!) :)

5:55 PM  
Anonymous Phyllis said...

I have literally been wondering how to do this for years!

7:52 AM  
Blogger Bonnie D. said...

I love the cuff and appreciate the tutorial! The pintuck on the pocket is a great touch.

12:31 PM  
Anonymous Joan said...

Thanks so much for showing how to do this. It's a beautiful shirt.

5:30 PM  
Blogger fourkid said...

Thanks - I love this finish. Can't wait to try it - it would be cute for some hems too. I can see this on my nightgowns and children's clothing. One (probably silly) question (but only when you get a chance - I know this is a challenging week) Do you do this actual hem after the side seam is sewn? If you do it before as you are demonstrating then you have that uncovered seam at the edge when you put the sleeve together? I am not sure if you did it this way for ease of seeing what you are doing - or if you have a way that you finish that open side seam.
Blessings (and prayers),
Patti

8:42 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Patti, I did it flat like this because this is a shirt sleeve. I completely flat-felled the side seams of both the sleeve and shirt after the sleeve was set. That way, all raw edges were enclosed.

You certainly can do this treatment "in the round" as the finished hem of a garment, after the side seams are sewn :)

...and no question is ever silly, please always feel free to ask!

10:04 AM  
Blogger Brenda said...

I have had this tutorial book marked and am delighted to finally have a garment to use it on! thank you

9:24 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh! I can´t belive it This is a wanderful tutorial. I´ve find it without searching it. It´s fantastic. I´m sewing me a dress and I´am going to make a cuffed-hem sleeve for it. You are a fantastic teacher. Please don´t stop.

I writte as an anonimous but my name is Teresa from Spain. Sorry my English I´m a perpetual English learner. Bye.

5:03 AM  

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