V8759...A New Vogue MEN's SHIRT Pattern !
I am so pleased that Vogue has decided to introduce a new mens shirt pattern! And at first glance, it looks like a winner. I have ordered it, and will make it up as soon as it gets here...but in the meantime, here are my first impressions of Vogue 8759--
As a shirtmaker, the first things I noticed about this shirt are the slim sleeves, the over-all slim cut delivered by curved side seams, and shoulders that are not dropped. That's the good news. But the design has alot of details going on in the back, and not much happening in the front (see line drawings below). That unbalance can be easily changed by adding another pocket, or adding a separate front button placket rather than the "French" front placket shown. Remember, that's just my opinion...many men prefer a very "clean" shirt front.
Here is the back view--
Details to notice are back seams instead of pleats, and that the back yoke appears neither too narrow or too wide. A yoke that is too narrow causes a shirt to ride-up in back when the wearer is seated, and a yoke that is too wide (deep) looks boxy gives a shirt a sloppy look.
Here are the pattern line drawings--
Something interesting to note is the back sleeve seam that incorporates the placket..here's a closer view--
So, as soon as the pattern arrives, I'll stitch it up and give you my thoughts along the way :)
Labels: Fashion / Sewing Commentary, Sewing Plans
15 Comments:
I would love to have a great shirt pattern for my adult son so can't wait to hear your thoughts! Maybe we could even talk you into doing a sew-along (teach along)!!!
I immediately thought of you when I saw that on the Vogue site this morning. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the pattern once you make it up. And I agree with Peggy, you should do a sew-a-long so we can all my our hubbys wonderful new shirts. :-)
Thanks for pointing out the new Vogue men's shirt pattern. That looks like an ideal shirt for my son since he is nice and slim. I bought the Colette Negroni shirt pattern based on your recent recommendation and have made it up once already for my husband and am making up another for my son.
Looking forward to your comments.
DH is very tall and skinny and I've been afraid of trying to sew him a shirt because they would look like balloon on him. Thanks for the heads up on the narrow cut of this one.
Thanks for your preview, I am always looking for new shirt patterns for DH, who is 5'5", but needs an XL for his broad shoulders and neck size. I will also be watching for your feedback!
I'm an avid reader of your blog and wonder if you could shed some light on working with cottons with some stretch for shirtmaking. I just finished a shirt for myself (a pattern that I've used many times before) from a very nice cotton poplin with stretch. What a PITA!! I can't press my seams perfectly flat no matter what. And it was impossible to insert the sleeve even though I reduced some of the ease. Can you weigh in on this. Nora
Hi Nora, I *very rarely* use cotton/lycra woven fabric for classic shirts..for all the reasons you mentioned. But when I do, I start by choosing a style without many design details. I set the sleeve in flat, *then* sew the side seams. And instead of making flat-felled seams, I tame the stretch by serging as many seams as I can, pressing them to the back, and topstitch them down from the right side (for mens shirts) or just leave them trimmed by the serger to 3/8", for a woman's shirt/blouse.
Sorry...I wish I had better answers for you :(
Look forward to your comments!
Linda
I'm anxious to read your comments after sewing. It is a bit of an eye adjustment to see such a closer cut, particularly without a drop on the shoulders. Is this what your customers prefer wearing? I used to work with mostly men but those days are over and I am not really up on the latest look. Would love to hear more comments on the trending styles of men's shirts and value your opinion.
Thanks for the "heads up" - interesting, can't wait to read your opinions of it - it does look nice and slim fitting!
article published quite interesting to read because the describe in detail so that adds a different science
will have to pick this one up the next time vogues go on sale. might pick up two copies.... one for dh and one for C. (if they wore the same size, my life would be so much easier...) i like seams in the back.
I'm SO looking forward to your evaluation of this shirt. It looks very promising, especially for my young adult son who is tall, pencil slim and likes his shirt fit close.
I have a nice old kwik sew with that awesome back seam placket, but the cut is on the baggy side with a dropped shoulder.
Pam I also thought of you as a soon as I saw this pattern! Thanks for your analysis, you always see details in men's shirt patterns that elude me and I always learn something,
I like it! Actually I am going to use it as part of 'lessons' I am going to take raally soon.
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