Next up--The Negroni Shirt! And my RANT about "Self-Drafted"

Yes...I know that I am the last one in "Sewing Land" to make the Negroni men's Shirt Pattern (www.ColettePatterns.com). I took a quick look at it several months ago, but when life got in the way I put that project aside.........and then I lost the pattern!  I ordered a  new one and now that it is here, I can compare it to Vogue 8800 .  Since I can already see that the patterns have significant differences, my comparison will merely be to define those differences rather than make a big declaration that one is better than the other.  And then after the Negroni, I will be showing you a  Victoria Jones Men's Shirt pattern,  the authentically classic "Hawaiian Businessman's Shirt"!

The Negroni will be made from the blue cotton batik print you see pictured.  Because it is a commercial pattern, my husband Roger will be the lucky recipient of the new shirt.  Someone recently asked me why I don't use commercial patterns for the shirts I make for my clients. There are many reasons, here are a few--

-- My clients pay for shirts that are personally designed for them by me, from patterns that are custom hand-drafted to their measurements.

-- It takes me less time to draft a shirt pattern from a given set of measurements than it does to alter a commercial pattern.

-- And speaking of drafting and time, it takes me much less time to sew a shirt from one of my own custom patterns.  That is because I add different amounts of seam allowances to various pattern pieces so that virtually no trimming is needed while the garment is being sewn.

And now a little rant (feel free to add your opinion in "comments").....

 I get excited when I read on a blog or sewing forum that a garment was made from a "self-drafted" pattern..I love when people design their own clothes! But nine times out of ten when I click the link, I find out that the "Self-Drafted" garment was made using parts of commercial patterns that someone  Else,  not  "Self"  drafted!

A hand-drafted pattern ,"Self-Drafted" pattern, or a Custom-Drafted garment, should mean that NO parts of the pattern existed before the point of a pencil met a blank sheet of paper (unless we are using a pocket or cuff, etc, that we...all by ourselves...have drawn from scratch.)  A self-drafted pattern is not a "FrankenPattern" where pattern pieces that  someone else designed  have been re-arranged, or when more curve has been taken to a seam of a blouse that someone else drafted, or when a so-called Self-Drafted pattern started with a bodice piece or any pattern piece previously in existence that someone else designed and drafted !

 It would be like me making a copy of a photo of the elegant Erica B or gorgeous Mimi G,  pasting my head over theirs, and saying, "This is what Pam wore today".  Of course nobody would fall for it, and I would be a called a fraud and a deluded old fool...while you all laughed hysterically.  Yet others blithely claim "This is what I self-drafted today" when they have essentially "photo-shopped" existing patterns.

Sure, we all have taken  a sleeve from a Simplicity pattern, sewed it to the bodice of a Vogue pattern, onto which we sewed the cool pockets from yet another commercial pattern, etc, etc...to make a garment look the way we want it to look. But c'mon, that is NOT a "Self-Drafted" pattern, and most of us know it...we might not know just what we should call it (I sure as heck don't know). But most of us would not have the temerity to claim it as "Self-Drafted".   On the other hand, when we see a a RTW dress and we use the shape of the bodice and skirt as inspiration, and then we draw a pattern (all by ourselves) in an attempt to mimic that garment...in my opinion that qualifies as a self-drafted pattern. Certainly not an original design idea, but I am not talking about design here...that is another kettle of controversy.  I have been talking about "Self-Drafted" Patterns....that often are anything but.

On the Cutting Table...Vogue 8800

Next up, an evaluation of this fairly recently released Vogue pattern for a semi-fitted mens shirt.
I get countless email messages asking me for recommendations for  a "Good Man's Shirt".  So when a new pattern comes out, I do my best to give it a try. 

Since most of the shirts I make are custom hand-drafted garments for clients... my husband Roger is usually the lucky recipient of these test shirts.  And since I really dislike to sew a  muslin from actual "muslin", I am using one of the many batiks I have in stash, bought "on-sale-with-a-coupon-too."

Yes, I am going to make the short-sleeve version in this marbleized batik. I think this fabric is one of those "in small doses" prints, don't you?  A long sleeved shirt would just be "much too much" in this fabric.   But I think a short sleeve version in this fabric will look kind of cool for a slim guy in his mid-fifties...we'll see.

While sewing this shirt, I'll be evaluating many things such as the shape of the yoke as it relates to the back, the shape of the collar, the amount of ease in the sleeve cap and its height...among other things.

What I'm working on...Shirt with Angled Yoke

I started this design last week, but have been very busy since my blog-interview with the lovely Gertie!

When finished (sometime next week, I hope)...this will be a Man's Shirt with a one-piece *angled* wrap-over Yoke. Excuse the poor sketch (I cannot draw) and blurry pic of the "working pattern".  

This first muslin was pretty good and I've made some minor changes to the final pattern.  Right side of shirt is shown...

When drafting a shirt for a man where the yoke wraps over the shoulder and ends at a deep angle in the front, shape needs to be "built-into" the yoke so that the shirt  lays smoothly along the shoulder.  While you will sometimes see a design like this for women or children...there are very few angled (one piece) yoke styles found among commercial patterns for men.  In menswear this look is usually accomplished by a separate piece that is stitched to the shirt fronts (like western shirts, for example).

She claims to be a Tailor?

 ...and Yes, really and truly I am :)   While it's true that the focus of my apprenticeship was Shirt-Making, I was instructed quite intensively in both Classic and "Simple" tailoring.

Although my lifestyle now is quite casual, there are times that I take a break from Shirt-making for my clients to draft, tailor, and sew jackets and coats for myself.

Here is an example of  the kind of "casual" tailoring I do for myself these days. I made this coat a few weeks ago, from lovely cashmere coating that a Tailor friend sent to me. I drafted the pattern myself...a simple wrap style with side panels, and slightly dropped sleeves.  Please pardon the quality of the photo. I just snatched the coat straight out of out of the closet, put it on my form, and snapped the pic. A little steaming to smooth the nap near the hem would have a good idea, but...oh well, next time :)

The fabric was completely underlined with Pro-Weft Supreme Medium (exclusive to Fashion Sewing Supply), with 2 layers of it used in the turn-back collar/revers areas, all facings, and the back vent.  It gives the perfect amount of support without affecting the luscious fluidity of the cashmere.  Of course, the coat is fully lined.

Next up in my tailoring plans is a notched-collar blazer jacket, made with this lovely wool tweed and a pattern I drafted myself. 

 Or maybe I'll make it from another wool fabric I have made "ready for the needle" by using my *Dryer Pre-treament Method*. Here's the link in case you missed the tutorial when I first posted it way back in 2009 ;)

I often change my mind about the fabric  right before the scissors snip the cloth. But at least I am committed to the pattern!
The muslin has been stitched and fitted and I am very happy with the draft.  

Hopefully I will be able to sneak away from all the action going on at my online store, Fashion Sewing Supply, and at least get the jacket cut-out and interfaced!  And I'll try to remember to snap some photos along the way, so you can see my progress.

Closet Crisis...

Do you remember when I told you that I was going to sew a new shirt for Roger?   

Well that was before I cleaned our closets this past weekend, and realized that he has dozens of shirts and several pairs of pants, suits, ties, etc...and saw that my closet is depressingly empty.  I mean, really...the state of my wardrobe is seriously embarrassing...sigh...

So starting today I am going to make time every day for the next 2-3 weeks to sew for MYSELF, for a change!   Well...I might squeeze a couple of children's outfits for Julianna and Brooklyn into the mix...but most of the "sewing action" will be for me me me me me!   I have just started to lose the 30 pounds (!!!) that piled onto my body over the past year....before and after surgeries while the docs were trying to get my thyroid hormones and other stuff balanced.  

Now that I am on the proper medications, I feel great, but not confident enough yet to be seen in skirts or dresses. That won't stop me though...I have lots of wonderful fabrics for pants, tops, and jackets that I can't wait to get my hands (and scissors) on!  None of the garments that I sew now will be very complicated.  Waistbands will need some elastic (abdominal swelling)...but that's OK, I am not wearing anything "tucked-in" now anyway.  And a little creativity will be needed...there are some very ugly scars on my neck that I'd like to cover while they are still fading.   I see variations of cowl-neck tunics in my immediate future ;)

My first thought was to wait to make new clothes until my figure was back to normal...but who knows how long that might take?  So phooey on that!  I want new clothes and I want them now!  

Do I sound selfish?  I hope not, because this self-indulgence feels pretty darned good ;)

I'll post what I make here...including a few tips and techniques...so stay tuned.

WTH is this ? ...and Cool New Stuff Coming!

WTHeck is right...isn't it pitiful? 

This quick pair of denim pants and a bag full of blouse "pieces" ready to be stitched,    is all I've been able to accomplish since the sale started at         Fashion Sewing Supply.   I knew our elastic was popular, but I never imagined it was quite this popular: I've cut well over 900 yards in just a few days, and have a stack of orders to fill!  But I am certainly not complaining, I'm truly grateful...the hordes of people after me to pay outstanding medical bills will  hopefully stop pestering me...for a while ;)

But enough with the kvetching....

Exciting NEW styles of Interfacing are on the way!  

I've developed some wonderful new Traditional Sew-in Hair Canvas (sometimes called Hymo) that is 50% hair and 50% wool...NO synthentics...and it's 63" wide.   It is the type and quality that is sought after by the finest tailors in the world...but...we have had it steamed for you so it's ready to use right away! No pre-treatment is necessary...none-nada-zilch!  It does Not shrink. At. All.

We have the same quality 50/50 Hair Canvas (68" wide) that's been specially woven to accept the application of the wonderfully flexible fusible resin we've become known for.  Again, this new Fusible Hair Canvas needs no pre-treating...the yardage has been thoroughly steamed...it does NOT shrink.

Does it get better?  Yes!

 I've also had a fabulous new Medium-weight Fusible Weft with a unique texture milled in Charcoal black and Ivory just for Fashion Sewing Supply, ...and OMG it's TDF !  As always, we've done the pre-shrinking for you...and it's even washable after fusing it to your fabric :)

I am just waiting for the rolls to get here (5-6 days more days), before I can put them up for sale on www.FashionSewingSupply.com.  Maybe I should have waited before telling you about them...but after developing and testing them for months, I am just so excited that they are almost here!

If you want to be notified when they arrive, just sign up for the Fashion Sewing Supply Newsletter (tan box on the the left of the blog page).

OK... Now I have to go catch a bite to eat, catch my breath, and then get back to work...I am so glad I love my job!

I Love Brown Boxes, don't you?

Well...I love them when they are filled with gorgeous fabrics! 

And they literally are GorgeousFabrics.com fabrics: the solids are bottom weight for pants, and the amazing knit prints will make  beautiful new tops and tunics for me to wear this fall and winter.  I'm really psyched to sew!    

Of course the sewing will have to wait until all the interfacing orders piled on my desk are shipped...but sewing sure is a great incentive to work long days and get my work done!

Almost a Blue Shirt

Well at least it is cut out and the pocket made....

Hopefully I will be able to finish this client's shirt and the several more I need to sew, sooner rather than later. But it's like someone turned a switch off in my brain...I seem to be sewing so slowly. I really need to get it in gear!

Next Up...the New Vogue Shirt Pattern!

I finally received this pattern and plan to start sewing the test-garment (the muslin) this weekend.

Since this will just be a test of the pattern, I will not use fine seam finishes for this first version of this shirt. After stitching, the seams will be pressed then serged and topstitched. My goal is to evaluate the cut and fit of this pattern. However, I will be using very nice fabric...this beautiful  navy and dark red gingham cotton shirting bought from Gorgeous Fabrics.com  quite a while ago. Why high-quality fabric, but short-cut seam finishes?  Well...it is just my preference to always work with nice fabric.  After all, this fitting garment might very well may end up being what I call "weekend-wearable", if not for my "test-model" (otherwise known as my dear husband Roger), then for one of my friends.  And anyway...I bought enough of this fabric for several shirts :)

So...stay tuned. Barring any emergencies, I will update you with my progress of important and/or tricky parts along the way, including any "surprises"...good or not-so-good !

Side note-- Thank you all for the get-well wishes via facebook for my Mother-in-Law...who was recently in an awful head-on collision auto accident and is still in the Trauma Intensive Care Unit.

V8759...A New Vogue MEN's SHIRT Pattern !

I am so pleased that Vogue has decided to introduce a new mens shirt pattern!  And at first glance, it looks like a winner. I have ordered it, and will make it up as soon as it gets here...but in the meantime, here are my first impressions of Vogue 8759--

As a shirtmaker, the first things I noticed about this shirt are the slim sleeves, the over-all slim cut delivered by curved side seams, and shoulders that are not dropped.  That's the good news. But the design has alot of details going on in the back, and not much happening in the front (see line drawings below). That unbalance can be easily changed by adding another pocket, or adding a separate front button placket rather than the "French" front placket shown. Remember, that's just my opinion...many men prefer a very "clean" shirt front.

Here is the back view--

Details to notice are back seams instead of pleats, and that the back yoke appears neither too narrow or too wide. A yoke that is too narrow causes a shirt to ride-up in back when the wearer is seated, and a yoke that is too wide (deep) looks boxy gives a shirt a sloppy look.

Here are the pattern line drawings--

  

Something interesting to note is the back sleeve seam that incorporates the placket..here's a closer view--

I am going to reserve comment until I see how (or if) the inside of the placket is clean-finished.

So, as soon as the pattern arrives, I'll stitch it up and give you my thoughts along the way :)

Not quite panic time...yet.

YIKES what a day this has been...  This morning I was under a deadline to sew 5 shirts for my clients by Thursday!  Since then one client has sweet-talked me into adding another shirt (or 2 if I have time, haha) to his order...but that the extra shirts can wait to be shipped a little later.  So I have not hit the panic button...yet...not quite yet....

• Fabrics chosen and pre-washed twice? Check!
• Hand-drafted Patterns located and tweaked to new measurements? Check!
• "Shirt Crisp" Interfacing ready?   Check!
• Iced Tea chilling for my late night break? Check!

The 2 tailors on my staff who help with rush orders like these?  On Vacation!

I sincerely hope they are having a great time......  :)

 

SEWING NOTES-- Special Shirt-Interfacing from FashionSewingSupply.com, Fabrics from Gorgeous Fabrics, Fabric.com, and Philips-Boyne.