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Shirt with Cross-Cut Collar

 I just had a few moments to slap attempt to carefully pin this new shirt design onto my photo-wall and snap a pic before we needed to box it up for the mail-carrier who was very patiently waiting for us to get our act together ;)
So...please forgive the wrinkles ?

As crummy as the photograph is, I am very happy with this shirt. It is an original design for a very special client and features design details that I think work together nicely.  The collar is cut on the cross-grain, and is shaped so that the collar stripes intersect at a right-angle with the stripes on the shirt front.  The left front button placket is also cut on the cross-grain. I mirrored this detail on the extra-wide sleeve plackets and the banded pocket.

Now that this shirt is on its way to my client...it's on to the next.  But I think I'll finally take some time to sew for myself this weekend! I desperately need new pants and some tops. Client work can wait until Monday, don't you think?

SEWING NOTES:  Collar and Cuffs interfaced with "Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible", and "Latte" Color Designer Shirt Buttons both from www.FashionSewingSupply.com  Cotton Poplin shirt fabric is from my shirting stash.


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Blogger Amy said...

Pam, I have a question about collars - it's been a fairly long time since I've sewn one. Anyway, the upper collar and under-collar are two different fabrics. When I turned them (after sewing) the under-collar wants to peek out when the collar is folded around the neck. How can this be prevented?

2:57 PM  
Blogger fourkid said...

Your shirts are amazing. Yes! You definitely can wait until Monday - any business would.

3:19 PM  
Blogger Bunny said...

Gorgeous shirt, Pam! Yes, you definitely want to be sewing for yourself this weekend. Can't wait to see what you come up with!

3:26 PM  
Blogger Gorgeous Things said...

OMG, I LOVE that shirt!!!

3:52 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Amy, an easy solution :) You just need to allow for "turn of the cloth"--
Next time, Cut the *under-collar* a scant 1/8" smaller along the top and side edges. When you sew the collar, match up the edges as usual (as if the collars were the same size). When you turn the stitched collar, the seams will roll a tiny bit to the underside, and the under-collar will not show :)

5:45 PM  
Blogger Joan said...

I love your shirts and am loving the interfacings too. I am wondering, keep wondering, why do people have you make shirts for them. Not to say that your shirts aren't wonderful, they are, and I am sure that they are worth every penny that people pay for them and probably more. But...
What reasons do people give you for ordering custom made shirts? I have a hard time thinking of ways to ask this question and not sound either rude to you or your clients, but hope you will just understand my "not rude" inquiring mind.
Do they need special fitting because they do not find shirts that fit them because of some unique physical challenge? Do they have all the money in the world so they can afford to get custom made clothing? Is it just worth it because they are so well made and from such good materials because they last so long? Some combination of these or other reasons I haven't thought of? The reason for my curiosity is simply that you are doing well in an economy that is tanking. I am so glad of it, and hope that it means that other people in the custom garment industry can also make a living, a good living. I will likely never have the energy to do more than make clothing for family (5adult men, 6 adult women, 2 smalls) so I am not really asking on my own behalf. It just would be an encouragement and uplift to know that it can be done if you are good enough.

7:52 PM  
Blogger Rose said...

I enjoy seeing your shirts and the creative touches that you add. This shirt is another amazing one - unique and still classy. Have fun sewing for yourself this weekend!

8:10 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Joan...I take no offense at all about your question :)

The short answer is that there is still a very wealthy population all over the world who enjoy having their clothing custom-made, and are willing to pay for it. Some of my clients do have fitting challenges..this shirt for instance has big cuffs and the sleeves are very long. This client is an executive and just cannot buy fashion shirts off-the-rack...because they do not exist in his size.

I do have a longer answer, and I have been working on a full blog post about the role of Custom Clothiers in this economy...it will probably be posted early next week.

9:02 PM  
Blogger ClaireOKC said...

What happened to that abstract new design on the shirt?...you know the dark one?...I thought that was a new trend and I was all ready for it as I usually have a pot of coffee in my studio too...thought maybe my deb dress could use a new "abstraction" like that - - ha!!!! (of course!)

6:42 AM  
Blogger ClaireOKC said...

And to further your comment to Joan: It's interesting about this, even though there is still a wealthy population that will support custom work, I also find that in my business, even moderately wealthy folks prefer having their wedding gowns and debutante gowns made, and once the mothers see what I do for the daughters, then I get them in the fall (course they are much quicker as they are more sure about what they like and don't like). It's hard to describe, but what the mothers see is that I'm able to fit, shape and style a garment to a person's size, shape and style (meaning their likes and dislikes) so that they are not only comfortable but look really good AND feel really good. For most women who are used to RTW, this is a real treat and very addictive. Plus I make my garments so that they last and last, and I'm sure that Pam's are the same way and her clients regard Pam's shirts as classics and can be worn for many many years with great satisfaction, pride and comfort.

Sorry to take up so much room here, but this is sort of a sleeper "treat" (for lack of better word) that most people don't realize is out there and once they do, becomes very addictive.

6:48 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Claire, I totally agree with your thoughts on custom clothing :)

Now, regarding that abstract shirt...I sent a photo of "The Coffee Shirt" to my client, but he thought it a bit too fashion-forward...I can't imagine why...... ;)

8:37 AM  
Blogger Martha said...

This is a very special and fabulous shirt. I am so inspired by your shirts though I am still trying to master the basics of shirt-making myself. I look forward to your post on the place for custom clothes. I too see multiple reasons, especially fit issues. A shirt that fits, like any garment that fits, makes a person feel more confident.

8:05 PM  
Blogger Handmade said...

Love your shirts and your hints and tips!!!

4:27 AM  
Blogger sewbluetiful said...

Joan, thank you for posting that question,, I have been wondering that for a while,, just haven't posted about it...

And thank you Pam and ClaireOKC for your comments, I am very glad that you find success with your' business,, it helps to let others think that if they can find a niche out they that they could have success as well...

Wonderful shirts by the way.....

1:46 PM  

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