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12/05/2011

Spot-Fusing...A modern Tailor's Method

While I am taking some time off from Blogging to take care of some personal business, Here is a repeat of one of my most popular Tutorials.....

Block Fusing is a method that many modern tailors and home-sewists use to apply interfacing to fashion fabric yardage before the pattern pieces are cut out. Have you ever struggled keeping the interfacing layer from slipping off-grain as you attempt to fuse it to your fabric yardage?  Next time, try this fast, easy, and accurate method that I learned from a Master Tailor during my apprenticeship, called "SPOT-FUSING"...And it can be done right on your cutting table!
^ STEP 1 ^
First, we need to prepare the surface of the table. The photo above shows my cutting table covered with 2 layers of HEAVY weight muslin (from Gorgeous Fabrics), and one layer of very thick wool (a heavy wool blanket will work as well..I just happen to have felted wool yardage that I use for this technique).  It is VERY important that these layers be smooth and free of wrinkles, so thoroughly smooth them out before proceeding.


 ^ STEP 2 ^
Next, lay out your fashion fabric on top of your "padded" table, WRONG side UP...making SURE it is smooth. What you see in the photo above is 3 yards of 60" wide silk/wool suiting fabric. The cut edge of the fabric is to the left, with the rest of the yardage hanging off the right side of my table. There is no need for weights to hold the fabric in place...the under-layer of wool holds it nicely.  But if you need to, weights can be placed along the top edge (in the above photo, the (top) cut edge is to the left).


^ STEP 3 ^
Now lay your Interfacing FUSIBLE Side DOWN on the (wrong side) of the fashion fabric, making sure it is smooth and on grain. I am using Charcoal-Black Pro-Weft Supreme Light Interfacing, one of my custom-milled professional grade interfacings available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply.


^ STEP 4 ^
This is where the Spot-Fusing happens :)   USING a thin PRESS CLOTH, and your steam iron set to a low-wool setting, start moving your iron over the interfacing with an UP and DOWN motion. DO NOT slide the iron, just move it all over the interfacing, pressing with steam for a few seconds, picking up the iron, moving it over an inch or so, and steam pressing again for a few seconds. I start pressing in the middle along one edge, and spot-press to one side until I reach the edge of the yardage, then begin again in the middle and work towards the other edge. I keep repeating this, working my way down and along the yardage, until all the yardage on my table has had the interfacing "tacked" (SPOT FUSED) down. Then I carefully pull the next section of fabric + unfused interfacing so that it covers the table, making sure that all is smooth and on-grain...then repeat the Spot-Fusing process again until all the fashion fabric yardage has been Spot-Fused.  I can Spot Fuse a few yards of 60" fabric in about 5-10 minutes.
Please note that the object here is to just tack the interfacing to the fabric...NOT to fuse it completely..that comes later.


^ STEP 5 ^
After removing the Muslin+Wool "padding" from your cutting surface, carefully lay your Spot-Fused fabric yardage right side up, lay out your pattern pieces and cut them out.


  ^ STEP 6 ^
 NOW is the time when we take our garment pieces to our "official" pressing surface (your Ironing Board or ClamShell Press), and "finish the fuse"...following the complete fusing instructions that come with your interfacing.

And this is why I Spot-Fuse before I Block-Fuse: Why bother spending time and effort completely Block-Fusing ALL the yardage, including the scraps that will be thrown in the trash after the pattern pieces are cut ?  By Spot-Fusing, I can ASSURE a perfect fuse and save time by fully pressing/fusing just the actual garment pieces...AFTER the interfacing has first been "tacked down" by the Spot-Fusing :)

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9 Comments:

Blogger Nicki said...

Doesn't that waste a lot of interfacing?

2:15 PM  
Blogger Jilly Be said...

Spot fusing! What a concept! Thank you; I've wondered about this in projects where I want to fuse before cutting - very helpful :)

10:54 PM  
Anonymous Alethia said...

This is a great idea, but I have the same question as Nicki, Does this method waste a lot of interfacing?

11:04 PM  
Blogger Shar said...

As a new sewist, when/ why do you block fuse? Is this only for jackets or tailoring?

11:26 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Nicki and Alethia,

A waste of Interfacing? Well it depends on your point of view...what I mean is, some sewists always block-fuse their fabric, then cut the pattern. The method I show makes it easier to do. And if you think about it, you "waste" as much fabric as you "waste" interfacing when you block fuse...there are scraps of both...they are just already fused together ;) Come to think of it...when you you cut separately, you still throw away scraps that have not been fused together. There will always be some scraps of both fabric and interfacing, regardless of method.
*** The key is careful layout***

That said, there are those who never "block-fuse". To each, his/her own...I merely offer a way to do it more easily :)

6:17 AM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi Shar,
Many sewists choose to block-fuses yardage when several pieces of the pattern need to be interfaced. Generally, this does mostly apply to Tailoring projects when the fabric needs to be completely underlined with interfacing.

6:26 AM  
Blogger Bri said...

This is an interesting technique I will have to try, thanks for sharing!

9:35 PM  
Blogger lulu said...

Do you trim excess seam allowance from the interfacing before block-fusing? o

3:32 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Yes, I sometimes do, depending on the weight of the fabric I am using. If I am block fusing light interfacing onto light fabric, I do *not* trim it at all.

3:04 PM  

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