OTC-011 Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~: Tutorial- Angled Ruche Cowl Collar Tunic <body><script type="text/javascript"> function setAttributeOnload(object, attribute, val) { if(window.addEventListener) { window.addEventListener('load', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }, false); } else { window.attachEvent('onload', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }); } } </script> <div id="navbar-iframe-container"></div> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://apis.google.com/js/plusone.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> gapi.load("gapi.iframes:gapi.iframes.style.bubble", function() { if (gapi.iframes && gapi.iframes.getContext) { gapi.iframes.getContext().openChild({ url: 'https://www.blogger.com/navbar.g?targetBlogID\x3d10604511\x26blogName\x3dOff+The+Cuff+++++++++~Sewing+Style~\x26publishMode\x3dPUBLISH_MODE_BLOGSPOT\x26navbarType\x3dTAN\x26layoutType\x3dCLASSIC\x26searchRoot\x3dhttps://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/search\x26blogLocale\x3den\x26v\x3d2\x26homepageUrl\x3dhttp://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/\x26vt\x3d-8803809636534965068', where: document.getElementById("navbar-iframe-container"), id: "navbar-iframe" }); } }); </script>


Tutorial- Angled Ruche Cowl Collar Tunic

This tunic is the latest in the "OMG Pam is Sewing For Herself !" series of garments ;)  It is an original hand-drafted design of mine, and features a classic cowl collar that has been diagonally ruched. 
Here is a close-up of the finished collar...
^ Click to enlarge ^

Even though I drafted the pattern for my tunic, it is very easy to do with any pattern that has an applied cowl collar, like this style from Vogue, #8670.  

From cutting out the pattern pieces to wearing my top out to dinner...took less than 1.5 hours!   I enjoy "almost instant" sewing-gratification, don't you?

Here is how the Angled Ruche Cowl Collar is made...

First, stitch the long seam of the cowl collar. It will look similar to this--

For my tunic, I made the cowl collar "tube" using these measurements:
(20" long) x (the circumference of the neck edge + seam allowance).

< Click to enlarge


Next the collar was turned  WRONG sides together, hiding the seam allowances inside. Note--the seam is the CB of the cowl collar. 
Then a diagonal line was chalked across the Front of the collar at a random angle--

^ Click to enlarge ^

Following the chalked line, loose running stitches (using black thread) were worked through only the front layers of the collar. The stitches are about 1/2" long, and the line of stitching was anchored (knotted) at the bottom edge--
^ Click to enlarge ^

Next, the thread tail at the top of the collar was pulled to make the ruche, as shown below. Then several small stitches were taken and a small knot was made to secure the gathered (ruched) collar--
^ Click to enlarge ^

To attach the collar to the bodice, both the ruched cowl collar and the neck-edge of the bodice were marked at their 4 "quarter points" with pins--
^ Click to enlarge ^

The "Angled Ruche" cowl collar was attached to the neck-edge by matching the quarter-mark points (right side of collar to right side of bodice), then aligning all the edges as they were stitched together.       

All that was left to finish my "Angled Ruche Cowl" was setting the sleeves and stitching the hems :)

I will probably make another of this style soon,  perhaps positioning the ruche to the side (near the shoulder seam point) of the neckline...or maybe running 2 lines of ruching vertically at Center Front...or 2 lines in a \ / shape...or....  Well, the possibilities are endless!

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Blogger Sherril said...

More sewing for Pam, Yea! I like it, thanks for the showing how it's done.

11:59 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

How clever!!! Love it! Glad to see you are making stuff for YOU!

With friendship,

11:59 AM  
Blogger sdBev said...

What a neat variation! Thanks for sharing.

12:02 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Lovely top, Pam and beautiful colors.

Theresa in Tucson

2:24 PM  
Anonymous Andrea said...

Love it, adds a little interest to a simple style.

4:27 PM  
Blogger Bunny said...

Great detail. Thanks, Pam.

4:36 PM  
Blogger Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is such a kewl idea and be applied to more than just a top...I can see it in a dress, too. Thanks for sharing!

4:51 PM  
Blogger Linda said...

I am glad you are doing some sewing for yourself. This is an interesting cowl neck collar. Your tutorial is most helpful.

6:14 PM  
Blogger Irene said...

Another lovely top! Thanks for the tip on taming that cowl neck. Great idea.

8:22 PM  
Blogger Adithi's Amma said...

Thanks for sharing this. I love cowls and this is definitely on my never ending to-do list!

Adithis Amma Sews

1:16 AM  
Blogger gwensews said...

Terrific knit top. And so glad to see you sewing for yourself!

7:47 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice easy directions...thanks so much

8:23 AM  
Blogger Karen said...

What a great idea! Thanks for sharing Pam :)

3:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love your cowl collar! I was wondering if you could do this with a woven if it was cut on the bias.

8:41 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Love the collar! Can this be done with a woven if it's cut on the bias?

8:43 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Lovely! Can this be done with a woven if cut on the bias?

8:44 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Yes, this can be done with a soft woven cut on bias. However, you need to be sure that you are starting with a basic top pattern that was designed for woven fabrics, and that you lower the neckline enough so that it will fit over your head once the cowl collar is applied.

3:14 PM  

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