Tutorial- The "Spiral" Cowl Collar
As promised, here is a tutorial for making a cowl collar that has been "Spiraled" so that it drapes in lovely gentle folds that hide the neckline seam, rather than just "flopping down" in the front. On a recent garment, I showed you the Spiral Cowl Collar on a drapey Rayon knit fabric...this blue one is made from heavy cotton/lycra knit Velour.
There may be other ways to make a Spiral Cowl...this is how I do it...
(Click on any Photo to enlarge)
Start with any basic knit top garment that has a Jewel neckline, and sew the shoulder seams. You may then choose to lower the Front Neckline a little bit more like I did here. This is not an exact science. A rule of thumb is that the thinner the fabric, the higher the neckline can be...when a thicker knit fabric is used, It is best to scoop the neckline a little lower (unless you want a wide, high collar). When I make this cowl, I just scoop the neckline a random amount...different every time ;)
Next, cut a cowl collar that measures 12"-20" Long x the Neckline Circumference + Seam Allowance. The stretch of the knit should run the WIDTH of the collar.
WIDTH = NECKLINE CIRCUMFERENCE Then fold it Right Sides Together so that it looks like this photo --->
and stitch the long edges together, forming a "tube".
Then turn the tube right sides out, folding it in half to enclose the seam allowances. It will look like this, a "regular" cowl collar that we have all seen before :) The seam is the Center Back of the Collar, and it has 2 layers..the inner layer and outer layer.
Next we will start to "Spiral" the Cowl Collar, by sliding the INNER CB seam and the OUTER CB seam APART by 3"-6"
Now just ignore that the Center Back seam allowances are no longer laying on top of each other, and match and join the cut edges of the collar together. Match them all the way around, ignoring the way that the folded edge of the Collar will "Spiral" :) You can join the edges by pinning them, or as I usually do, by running a quick line of basting.