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How to Sew a One Piece "Collar Plus Stand"

This shirt has a collar pattern that combines both the collar and stand as one pattern piece.

While I would normally redraft the pattern to separate the stand from the collar, this time I decided to sew it "as is"....since it seems to be making a come-back in many shirt and blouse patterns.

While this "combined" collar rarely rolls nicely and tends not to hold its shape well...there are some ways to make it work.

Here's how:

First, fuse Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing, cut on the BIAS to the UNDER Collar. Notice that the seam allowances have been trimmed from the interfacing. Cutting the interfacing on the bias will "encourage" the collar to roll smoothly.

Next, Fuse a strip of Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing, cut on the STRAIGHT grain, to the "false" collar stand area of the UNDER Collar, as shown below. Fuse it right on top of the first Interfacing.

Now, on the UPPER collar piece...fuse a strip of ProWoven Shirt Crisp Fusible, cut on the STRAIGHT grain to the "false" collar stand portion of the piece, shown below. ONLY the "stand" is interfaced on the UPPER collar.

When the collar is stitched, the extra strips of  ProWoven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing that were fused to the "false" stands, add extra body to the area, and act like a "hinge".

This encourages the collar to roll into position as naturally as possible with this kind of "all-in-one" collar plus stand draft.

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Blogger Summerset said...

Smart - I can see how the fabric would roll much better with the pieced sections of interfacing. This would work for some of the children's blazers that I've encountered with similar collar drafts, but using appropriate interfacings.

12:48 PM  
Blogger Melissa said...

What a beautiful collar!

2:25 PM  
Blogger Lori said...

Thanks again for a wonderful tutorial. May I share this on the next podcast?

6:00 PM  
Blogger Pam Erny said...

Yes, Lori..please feel free to share this with your listening audience.

And for anyone reading this who has not yet heard Lori's great, fun and informative ongoing series of sewing podcasts....make sure to go to:

and check them out!

7:30 PM  
Blogger AdronsCatherine said...

Wow! Thank you so much for the great tutorial! I have always struggled with collars, but since I have 3 girls, there's been no real *need* to mess with this type. Now, however, I've got a little boy and another one on the way, and there's not much cuter than "little man" clothes! I've put off making collared shirts as the one I did a few months ago gave me such fits (collar still doesn't lay quite right, but I've pressed it into relative submission).

Any chance you could do a tutorial about knit neck bindings on things such as tees???

Have a great day!

9:44 AM  
Blogger Stacy said...

Thank you for this! What a great idea! I don't do collared shirts much anymore (I did tons when I was younger) but the next time I do, I will try this technique. Beautiful shirt, too. I love the curved placket.

11:10 AM  
Blogger Anne said...

Great info! Blogged on Craft Gossip Sewing Blog:

9:33 PM  
Blogger Sigrid said...

Great tutorial, I can see too that this would make a better collar. I've added it to the sewing tutorial blog, but remembered that I had forgotten to leave a comment here. Thanks for sharing this.

8:51 AM  
Anonymous Jennifer said...

Wonderful tutorial! Thanks.

7:24 AM  
Blogger tina said...

Thanks for the tutorial. I am making a western show shirt and the collar must be crisp and stand up on it's own, plus I have to add a gob of bling to it which may weigh it down. I think this technique will work for my project.

10:08 PM  

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