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6/19/2009

Vintage Shirt....So Far, So Good!

I am very pleased with the way the vintage mens shirt pattern I chose to make for part of DH Roger's Birthday present is coming along. Although his birthday was yesterday....age is just a number, right? :)

So..here is what I have completed so far: Pockets attached, Back Yoke and Shoulder seams sewn, Collar made and attached and the Facings attached.

Below are 2 "looks". The collar is laid flat in the first photo, and in the second photo, the collar is "rolled". Please bear in mind as you look at these photos, that this is a "work in progress" and hasn't yet had a final press. Yes, the collar is the same length on both sides...it appears longer on one side because the point of the collar is right against the black of the print fabric.

So which look do like the most? The flat collar, or the one with a roll?



SEWING NOTES : Pockets cut on Bias, Collar and Facings interfaced with PRO-SHEER ELEGANCE Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~

Amy asked an interesting question:

"...I like both collars, but I think I favor the rolled. Is there a difference in the way they will be sewn or can he choose which way he wants to wear it?"

If he decides he likes the rolled look, all it will take is a few stitches. But not at the place you might expect. :) Unlike a "button down shirt" where small buttons hold the collar roll, this type of collar is secured at center back to "hold the roll".

Here's why and how: When a convertible collar like this one lays flat, it sits slightly below the seam that attaches it to the neckline of the shirt-back. To hold a roll in a convertible collar, a ShirtMaker (this time little ole me, lol) matches the bottom edge of the collar to the stitching line EXACTLY where the "well" of the seam that attaches the collar to the back neck is located (at center back). Then from the wrong side of the shirt, a few stitches are taken to hold it there. And that's all it takes to "hold the roll."


Karla also asked a thoughtful question:

"...if one were to conceal a tiny snap at the CB of the collar, with the other side of the snap at the seamline on the shirt, would that have the same effect as taking those few stitches? Another possibility - thread loop concealed in the collar seam and a tiny hook on the underside of the collar? The advantages (IMO) would be leaving the collar style up to the wearer and allowing the collar to be ironed while it was flattened - and I am all about making ironing easier."

Sure Karla...that can be done. I'd probably go with a very small snap, rather than a thread loop/hook/eye...I think it would be more stable. Of course, care would have to be taken when pressing the shirt and collar so that an imprint of the snap would not be transferred to the collar.
If Roger decides he likes the roll collar...I'll make sure to take it out of the dryer as soon as it's dry. Then I'll put the shirt on a hangar, button the top button, and shoot some steam into the rolled collar and immediately smooth it with my hands.

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17 Comments:

Blogger Gorgeous Things said...

This is just my personal preference. I like the one with the flat collar. That's going to be one beautiful shirt!

11:13 AM  
Blogger mdmaybe said...

The flat definitely.

11:19 AM  
Blogger goodworks1 said...

I think it depends on your dh's neck length and width and his face shape...

12:31 PM  
Anonymous phyllis said...

Flat - it shows off the contrast perfectly!

1:57 PM  
Blogger Gigi said...

I have to be different, I like the rolled better! Now you make me want to start collecting vintage men's shirt patterns, sigh. But then they'll expect me to actually sew some shirts!

2:14 PM  
Blogger NancyDaQ said...

I like the flat.

6:00 PM  
Anonymous Karen Minturn Brown said...

Flat fits with the time period of the pattern. I would go with flat, but dh gets final say, doesn't he?

6:06 PM  
Blogger gwensews said...

I like the flat. Terrific shirt!

6:44 PM  
Blogger Kathie said...

Flat! no two ways about it... looks so vintage... love it.

6:49 PM  
Blogger Jean said...

The shirt looks fantastic --- I love the pockets and the contrast fabric. I like both collars, but if I have to choose, I would go with the flat.

7:06 PM  
Blogger Ann Made Studio said...

Your shirt looks awesome so far. I like the flat.

8:02 PM  
Blogger Amy Johnston said...

It looks great! I like both collars, but I think I favor the rolled. Is there a difference in the way they will be sewn or can he choose which way he wants to wear it?

9:02 PM  
Blogger patsijean said...

I too like both collars, but I favor the collar with a bit of a roll. However, the flat collar looks a bit more casual, and slightly western, perhaps a bit more masculine.

10:45 PM  
Blogger Nancy K said...

One vote for the flat collar. Great fabric.

11:31 PM  
Blogger Karla said...

You're going to force me to choose, huh? Flat....I think. It's going to be a great shirt. I found a copy of the pattern on ebay - wrong size, but at least I can admire the subtleties and (I hope) transfer them to another pattern. You have created a monster: I've ordered at least 8 vintage or OOP shirt patterns since you showed us this one.

7:36 AM  
Blogger Karla said...

Another question: if one were to conceal a tiny snap at the CB of the collar, with the other side of the snap at the seamline on the shirt, would that have the same effect as taking those few stitches? Another possibility - thread loop concealed in the collar seam and a tiny hook on the underside of the collar? The advantages (IMO) would be leaving the collar style up to the wearer and allowing the collar to be ironed while it was flattened - and I am all about making ironing easier.

7:42 AM  
Blogger Gayle in AZ said...

Definitely the flat collar, especially for a man and also for casual (no tie). I love your site!
~ Gayle in AZ

10:05 AM  

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