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FOLD and FLIP Facings....a Sewing Tutorial

Tops and blouses with draped cowls are among the most flattering neckline silhouettes. However, with many of these styles the shoulder seams tend to slip to the back. Not only that, but the inside can look very messy where the cowl drape facing meets the shoulder seams.

Here is a way to solve both of these problems at the same time ..and works equally well for boat neck tops with cut-on facings too!

In this example, the garment shown is the "Waterfall Blouse" from Ottobre Woman magazine, Issue 02/09 #5.


Patterns for draped cowls may have gathered front shoulder seams. If so, gathering the Front shoulder seams is the first step, as shown below--

Step 1

Also, patterns for this style may have a separate Back Facing. If so, attach it.

Step 2

Next, lay the back onto the front, Right Sides Together, matching the front and back shoulder seams, AND also match the edges of the facings, as shown---

Step 3

Now, with the back side up, stitch the shoulder seams together, pivot and continue to stitch the edges of the facings together in one pass, as shown below--

Step 4

This what the stitched shoulder seams/facings will look like from the FRONT

Next, fold the facings down towards the BACK meeting the shoulder seam and matching all edges. Stitch the shoulder seam again, though all layers (when you click on the photo to enlarge it, you will see the stitching line drawn in blue).
Repeat on the other side.

Step 5

Now turn (flip) the facings into position. Look! All those seams (shoulders, front facing, and back facing) are now neatly enclosed, as shown below. Also notice that the seams at the shoulder are now folded toward the Front. This is unusual, as we usually press shoulder seams to the back. But with this style, having the shoulder seams folded to the FRONT helps the cowl fall into beautiful folds, and the tendency of these styles to "slide backwards" is solved!

Step 6


What do you think? Please add a comment by clicking here-->


Anonymous Christa said...

Thanks for the wonderful tutorial!

8:15 PM  
Blogger Tonya said...

Thanks for the tutorial. I've actually had this shirt traced and waiting for weeks. Trying to cut back on sewing for lent :) It's addictive.

9:20 PM  
Blogger Linda T said...

Wonderful! Thanks so much for sharing!

10:39 PM  
Anonymous CarlaF said...

Thanks for the tutorial. The top is just my style and thanks to you, I just placed my order for the 2/2009 Ottobre Woman Magazine.

Thanks again,

CarlaF-in Atlanta

11:11 PM  
Blogger gwensews said...

Thank you for posting these great instructions.

7:26 AM  
Blogger Sew Lind said...

How wonderful Pam! This is the very top I plan to sew up next, I really appreciate your tutorial. I am so hoping I don't ruin the beautiful fabric I bought for the Waterfall top, at least I know the neck will sit nicely now! Perfect timing for your tutorial.
Many thanks

5:31 PM  
Blogger Karla said...

Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial, Pam. This method takes the top out of the "loving hands at home" category.

6:49 PM  
Blogger j.kaori said...

Thank you for your tutorial! I've been wanting to make a cowl neck top --- I'll definitely use your method!

9:37 AM  
Blogger Linda said...

Thanks for sharing this! It is truly a very nice finish inside.

12:27 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you, Pam! I'm getting ready to make the dress version so finding this was very timely for me. :)

10:56 PM  
Blogger Lara 900 said...

Thank you very much for this tutorial, I just compared it to the Ottobre instructions, and noticed they are the same -- only that without your tutorial, I would have never understood the Ottobre instructions. Being a beginner is much more fun with the internet and generous people like you around than it was back in the 80s with just my mom, who is anything but a perfectionist... thanks!

3:02 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you for posting these pics and instructions for a better cowl collar.

12:40 AM  

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