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10/01/2009

A Special Shirt Collar...and its Pattern

Many of my clients remark that the collars of the shirts I design are very comfortable and that they don't have to fuss with them. That's because I specifically design shirt collars to follow the natural curves of the neck and shoulder.

Take a close look at the collar on the denim shirt I am currently making, shown below.  Most (if not all) commercial shirt patterns have collars with top edges that are just straight across or that have one long slight curve.  However, as you can see...I have drafted my collar pattern with curves that follow the natural shape of the body.  SEWING NOTE-This collar has been interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~.

Here is the pattern draft, first shown as a half-pattern, 
then again below as the full draft.

~ Click on photos to enlarge, click browser "Back" button to return to this page ~


Note that the bottom edge of each pattern shown is the neck edge, and that the pattern has been drafted with 3/8" seam allowances. It has been placed on a 1-inch square grid so that you can see the scale.  You are welcome to copy the pattern...however if you use my draft and post a photo of a shirt made with it, please link back to this post, and/or reference it. Thank-you...and I hope that you enjoy using this draft !

I've been asked about the collar stand (band) pattern that I usually use with the collar draft I showed above. Almost any stand can be used with this collar, as long as you draft the collar wide enough to cover the width of the stand (band).
So, here it is...you will notice it is fairly standard. 
It really is the refined shape of the collar (shown above) that allows it to fall so elegantly.
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26 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Pam, as usual, you have set the bar. Now I'm just going to have to get out my denim and make a few shirts. How curved is the collar stand and how much does that affect the comfort of the collar?
Theresa in Tucson

12:29 PM  
Blogger LisaB said...

Thanks for posting this, Pam. I am in the midst of making a few shirts for myself and DH and will probably play around with this. I'm also interested in how the stand may be affected.

12:44 PM  
Blogger Cindy said...

thanks for sharing your inside secrets! The collar does lay so nice.

1:25 PM  
Blogger Trudy Callan said...

Thank you for sharing your inside tips!

1:38 PM  
Blogger Gigi said...

You are so clever, Pam! I have several more shirts planned for me and my honey so I will definitely be redrafting my collars. Thank you so much, you are a gem!

4:40 PM  
Blogger Faye Lewis said...

Your collars always look so professional.

4:57 PM  
Blogger Lori said...

Outstanding as always.

6:52 PM  
Blogger Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Thanks for passing on such great information :)

7:50 PM  
Blogger meredithp said...

Awesome! Thank you Pam! Your collars (and shirts) always look wonderful. Thanks so much for sharing the inside "scoop".

8:21 PM  
Blogger Megbud said...

Your collar looks wonderful - sits so nicely.

10:37 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Pam, thank you for the quick response on the collar stand. I asked because I just made up an old McCalls shirt pattern from the early 90s and the stand curved more than usual. Since I'm practicing shirt collars right now I think I will try some variations.
Theresa in Tucson

10:41 PM  
Blogger Kathi said...

Wow, the slight curve really does make such a difference in how it lays. Amazing!

10:49 PM  
Blogger Rose said...

Oooh! wonderful. Dare I say that you are ahead of the curve? :) Thank you for posting--I'll try to incorporate into my shirt pattern.

Rose in SV

10:58 PM  
Blogger LisaB said...

Pam, thanks for the follow-up on the stand.

10:28 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for the explanation. I'd like you to make me a custom shirt. How do I contact you?

11:17 AM  
Blogger j.kaori said...

Thank you for the information --- I hope to try it soon!

10:43 AM  
Anonymous phyllis said...

Fascinating Pam, and so perfectly logical. Small changes like this really make all the difference too!

6:50 PM  
Blogger Karla said...

I love it when you share your hard-earned trade secrets. Thank you!

8:11 AM  
Blogger midnight hysteria said...

i tired to post this three times and it would not, so once more:

pam ... i was looking at that shirt collar saturday morn, when you posted it on flickr ... lo, when my dh dressed for a church meeting at 5pm in a white, long sleeve landsend shirt, i was taken completely aback when i realized his collar (on a fairly low-end landsend shirt) had that same cut out collar ... i could not believe it ... i promise (LOL) to make his shirts exactly like yours/landsend b/c they are perfect ... as he tied his tie, the collar smoothed over his shoulder/chest and it fit perfectly ... i never noticed his (and i love to watch him tie his ties) until you posted a pic ... thank you for enlightening me on a *more perfect* to make a beautifully fitting collar AND for the impetus to make him one ... darlene

1:57 PM  
Blogger midnight hysteria said...

i'm very poor with enlarging/basically, anything to do with math ... is there any way you can make a .pdf of the actual size of the collar/collar stand for those of us *challenged*???

thanks ... darlene

2:08 PM  
Blogger Summerset said...

Excellent, this is bookmarked. The final shirt is beautiful - the contrast sections are clever and tasteful without being over the top.

6:00 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Hi "midnight hysteria"...

At this time, it's about all I can do to write what I do post to this blog and run my Interfacing business as well :)

It is my plan (after I finish building my Interfacing E-commerce site) to make many of my techniques and patterns available as "for-sale" PDF downloads. However, do not expect them before spring 2010.

7:18 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Land's End, huh. This is why I read blogs. Well, DH might be losing one of his older LE shirts in the interest of pattern making. And as far as Land's End being low end, they are, but you have to admit they are not "cheap". They listen to their customers, tweak the fit and almost always produce a well made garment worthy of emulation.
Theresa in Tucson

9:53 PM  
Blogger Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Theresa in Tucson...

Please realize that it was not ME who made a comment about any Lands End product. Frankly, I am not familiar with ANY of their products, so have NO opinions about them...AT ALL.

~ Pam

6:29 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I know it wasn't you Pam. I read blogs and their comments because the comments can often be as enlightening as the blog/tutorial. Midnight hysteria was correct, the Land's End collar is very much like the one you drafted. Already have one of DH's worn out shirts under disassembly. Saves time to copy one that already fits him.
Theresa in Tucson

6:45 PM  
Blogger midnight hysteria said...

i'm sorry; i didn't mean to cause a stir ... i hit *reply* thinking it would go to the person who posted the comment about landsend (theresa in tucson), however it made it to the group ... LOL ....

pam, please don't be offended, it was not meant that way ....

theresa in tucson: did you take the collar apart from the stand and open it up? dh's shirts are, pretty much, all new from landsend (he only wears them for church or *out* ... LOL ... not to work -- so they are still in good shape and i hate tearing them apart ...)

take care and let us know, theresa in tucson, how it goes ....

darlene

11:33 PM  

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