How To RESCUE Wrinkled INTERFACING!

(Because I still have not been able to do any sewing, I've decided to share this article with you again. It was first written in 2010)

 I think we all have good intentions, and try to keep our interfacing perfectly folded in a drawer or neatly rolled on tubes. But how many times have you reached for a piece of interfacing only to find a wrinkled mess like this...

Like me, probably more than once. 

Luckily there is an easy fix, and it starts at your grocery store. 

Or perhaps you already have it in your pantry... 

Baker's Parchment Paper! 
 

First, roll out a length of  the Parchment Paper onto your ironing board or other pressing surface...and secure it with a few glass-head pins (or other pins that will not melt).





Next, Place your wrinkled interfacing GLUE SIDE DOWN onto the Parchment Paper. Then with your DRY iron set on on a LOW setting, slowly slide the warm iron over the wrinkles.

You will see the wrinkles disappear as you slowly move the iron.

The interfacing does not stick to the slippery Parchment Paper at all. Then move the next section of wrinkled interfacing onto the paper and iron it. Since the iron is set below the  temperature needed to melt the fusible resin, the interfacing is not adversely affected at all. 
 

When you are finished, your once wrinkled interfacing is flat and smooth again, and ready to fuse to your fabric!

You may download a *Free* PDF of this article...by going to the TUTORIALS page at www.FashionSewingSupply.com . 

(It is the 4th tutorial on the page)

Make your own Fusible Stay-Tape...without cutting strips!

Make your own Fusible Stay Tape...without tedious cutting or trimming!

You can make any width of fusible stay tape that you may need if you have 

ProWeft Supreme Lightweight Fusible Interfacing on hand. 

It's So Easy....because ProWeft Supreme Lightweight will tear perfectly straight along the cross-grain, every single time!  All you need to do to make your own fusible stay tape is to make a little snip at the selvedge edge, then tear the ProWeft Supreme Light across the width of the yardage. Because ProWeft Supreme Light is so wide, each strip will be 60" long.

The tape I made shown in the photo above was "snipped-then-torn" about 3/8-inch wide. You can tear your strips at any width from 1/4" to 1/2" to use for reinforcing the front edges of jackets (or for wherever you need to use a soft "fusible stay tape"), up to 2-3 inches or more to reinforce jacket hem and sleeve vents, and other tailoring/dressmaking uses.

This "Stay-tape" will fuse easily along any straight fabric edge, and because ProWeft Supreme Lighweight is so flexible, you can follow any curve or angle easily (as you can see in the photo above).

What makes this Interfacing so special?

Pro-Weft Supreme Lightweight Fusible  has become known as "The interfacing for All Seasons" because it is a knit and woven interfacing combined into one fabulous product that  "breathes" because of its unique weave and its specially formulated highly flexible fusible resin. 

Custom-milled exclusively for Fashion Sewing Supply, it is available in both Natural or  Charcoal Black.  It's terrific for tailoring (especially as a complete underlining for jackets and coats), stablizing hems, wonderful for waistbands, and super for casual shirts made from medium to heavy weight fabrics like denim, chambray, hemp, and flannel.  Pro-Weft Supreme Light is perfect for so many types of fabrics and weaves like Linen, Boucle, Silk, Gabardine, Wools, Denim, Twill, and more!

 

How is it different than other kinds of Interfacing?

A woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard has the lengthwise fiber threads (warp) and crosswise fiber threads (weft) woven together.   PRO-WEFT Supreme Lightweight is a special kind of "weft insertion" interfacing where the fiber threads are first knit, and then crosswise (weft) fiber threads are woven (inserted) into the knit yardage.

Woven interfacing like ProWoven Standard  is totally stable. Knit interfacing like  
Pro-Tricot Deluxe is soft and has stretch. By combining the properties of both knits and wovens, PRO-WEFT Supreme Lightweight is both totally stable and wonderfully flexible.

 
Please visit ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~ for more information.

HAPPY DANCE--- FSS is back!

Our Official E-Commerce Website---> www.FahionSewingSupply.com

(for our United States Customers) 

is Back Online !

International Customers...to shop for our products, please click HERE

The most Elegant of Interfacings...

~~Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE~~

Now available exclusively at FASHION SEWING SUPPLY ! 
Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing...is the the ultimate lower-temperature fusible interfacing for stable knits and sheer to lightweight woven fabrics.

This sheer matte interfacing truly is different. Due to its unique weave and fiber content, it has 10% controlled stretch in the cross-grain, and is stable in the lengthwise grain. Pro-Sheer Elegance is made from a combination of Polyester, and stable Rayon  and can be fused at "low-wool to 
wool" settings of your iron.  It does NOT shrink.

It is absolutely the most amazing interfacing
that we have ever experienced!
Pro-Sheer Elegance barely affects the drape of fabric,
yet will add enough support
for stable facings, buttonholes, etc.
It is sheer, matte, silky, 60" wide....absolutely fabulous!

Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE FUSIBLE,
90% Polyester, 10% Rayon-- 60" wide
COLORS-- White or Black
Please visit FASHION SEWING SUPPLY for more information.

It's BACK !

It's BACK !  We finally found new mill to make our 
super-popular  Pro-Tricot Fusible Interfacing !

This is a Professional Grade Tricot knit interfacing used by designers and the finest ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers.  PRO-TRICOT FUSIBLE INTERFACING gives soft, flexible support to all weights of knits. It can also be used on lightweight woven fabrics. Pro-Tricot Fusible Interfacing can also be fused to leather.   The only pre-treatment ProTricot needs is to hold a steam iron Just Above the interfacing and steam it lightly just before fusing it to your cut-out fabric pieces.
PRO-TRICOT IS WASHABLE IN COOL WATER/DELICATE DRYER SETTINGS  AFTER FUSING TO FABRIC . 

PRO-TRICOT FUSIBLE, 100% polyester
Colors:  White, Black, Ivory and Gray
***Wide-Width Savings!
PRICE-- $6.88 per yard, 60"wide

Please visit ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ For Ordering Information.


 

Oooh...SILK ORGANZA !

SILK ORGANZA has JUST ARRIVED at ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~

Our PROFESSIONAL QUALITY SILK ORGANZA is a crisp sheer 100% silk fabric with a flat even weave. It can be used as interfacing and underlining on any fabric when a sheer, almost transparent sew-in support layer is desired.  It also is the preferred fabric for Press Cloths by Fashion Designers, and experienced sew-ers everywhere.

Our Silk Organza is of the highest quality, and 7mm in weight.  

When comparing prices, please do not confuse thin 3mm-6mm silk organza 

with our PROFESSIONAL QUALITY 7mm SILK ORGANZA.

PRO-SILK ORGANZA

7mm weight

COLORS- WHITE, IVORY, and BLACK.

Please visit ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ for more information. 

How to Rescue Wrinkled Interfacing...

(Because I STILL have not been able to any sewing, I've decided to share this article with again. It was first written in 2010)

 I think we all have good intentions, and try to keep our interfacing perfectly folded in a drawer or neatly rolled on tubes. But how many times have you reached for a piece of interfacing only to find a wrinkled mess like this...

Like me, probably more than once. 

Luckily there is an easy fix, and it starts at your grocery store. 

Or perhaps you already have it in your pantry... 

Baker's Parchment Paper!

First, roll out a length of  the Parchment Paper onto your ironing board or other pressing surface...and secure it with a few glass-head pins (or other pins that will not melt).





Next, Place your wrinkled interfacing GLUE SIDE DOWN onto the Parchment Paper. Then with your DRY iron set on on a LOW setting, slowly slide the warm iron over the wrinkles.

You will see the wrinkles disappear as you slowly move the iron.

The interfacing does not stick to the slippery Parchment Paper at all. Then move the next section of wrinkled interfacing onto the paper and iron it. Since the iron is set below the  temperature needed to melt the fusible resin, the interfacing is not adversely affected at all. 
 

When you are finished, your once wrinkled interfacing is flat and smooth again, and ready to fuse to your fabric!

You may download a *Free* PDF of this article...by going to the TUTORIALS page at www.FashionSewingSupply.com . 

(It is the 4th tutorial on the page)

ProTailor Deluxe...A VERY special NEW Interfacing

“Pro-Tailor Deluxe” Fusible Interfacing  comes to us from the very finest and Famous New York City Fashion Design workrooms. 
~Pro-Tailor Deluxe~ is a unique WARP-insertion Woven Fusible Interfacing that is made for tailoring applications like waistbands, collars, lapels, and all other traditional tailoring needs. It is almost like a blend of hair canvas and weft...It is slightly crisp, yet it's special weave gives it a very fluid hand..so hard to describe but simply devine!  Use it on wools,  suit-weight silks, medium linen, suit-weight microfiber, denim, gabardine, and more.
This medium weight Very drapey, Very special interfacing is stable and it Does Not Shrink.It is washable (delicate cycle) and may also be dry-cleaned.
 
This Medium weight VERY special Interfacing is stable and it DOES NOT SHRINK. It is washable (delicate cycle) and may also be dry-cleaned.
*** WIDE-WIDTH SAVINGS ***
Pro-TAILOR Deluxe FUSIBLE Interfacing
30% Stable Rayon, 70% Polyester -- 66" wide !
COLOR-- Dark Gray or Natural
Please Visit ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~ for more information.

HotPatterns Sunshine Tops...Step by Step

I have found my "make it 10 times" Summer Top! This pattern fits and flatters so well, that I've already made two. The first, from heather gray Cotton/Lycra Jersey and the other from Cotton/Lycra Jersey print. The print version has an inset neckband made from lightweight Irish Linen.

HotPatterns #1071,
Weekender Sunshine Tops



The HotPatterns team has made 2 terrific descriptive videos about this pattern...here are the links:

SUNSHINE TOP VIDEO, Part 1
SUNSHINE TOP VIDEO, Part 2




Pattern Description from the envelope-
You won’t believe how much mileage you’ll get from these great tops until you make them yourself! These tops are designed for T-shirt or knit fabrics with a little stretch. Try beading the neckband or add beads to the tunic drawstring for a pretty look. Relaxed, scoop-neck Tops are gathered onto a deep neckband at the front ...mix & match lengths & sleeve styles for your perfect top. Tank is sleeveless with a ribbed hip band, T-shirt has cap sleeves and finishes at the lower hip, and Tunic has short sleeves and applied drawstring casing. Try these lovely tops with simple pants, skirts or shorts, under your favorite jackets or cardigans, or team them with your jeans for a great casual outfit.

This a very easy pattern to construct. However, I've seen some questions about it on various sewing forums, so I took pics of the sewing sequence as I constructed the first top:

1. Interface wrong side of one set of the neckbands, then stitch their shoulder seams. You now have a set of neckline bands...The Interfaced Under-Band, and the Upper-Band.


2. Place the bands RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and stitch the inner circle. Then clip the curve. Now you have ONE Neckline Band.


3. Under-stitch the the seam allowances to the Interfaced side of the Neckline Band.


4. Match the edges of the Neckline Band, WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, and press.


5. Sew the front bodice pieces Right Sides Together at the shoulder seams. Gather the front neckline between the notches.


6. Match the RIGHT side of the Neck-Band to the RIGHT side of the neck opening, matching the notches and adjusting the gathers as needed. Stitch the Neck-Band to the shirt through all layers.


7. This is what the sewn neckline of the Sunshine Top will look like from the Right Side.
8. The last steps are attaching the sleeves and stitching the side seams and hems as you would with any simple top or T-shirt.

SEWING NOTES: Pattern from HotPatterns, Pro-Sheer Elegance Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, Fabric from my stash.

A Super-Fantastic Pattern!

Pattern Description:

"The Plain and Simple SuperFantastic Shirt", HotPatterns #1029

This style from HotPatterns is a relaxed-fit Shirt that has a classic yoke, slightly dropped shoulders and long sleeves with cuff and placket. The Shirt features a front half placket and pleat, and finishes at the lower hip with a curved shirt tail. You can choose the classic shirt collar and stand, or use the stand by itself for a funky Nehru collar.

Pattern Sizing:

Multisize 6-26



Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes...Though basic, the instructions were very clear and easy to follow. You need to cut the across the top of one of the pattern sheets to separate the instructions from the main page, but it does not in any way interfere with the pattern pieces. In fact, I found it quite handy to have them available this way.


What did I particularly like about the pattern?

I really like this style and will be making it again in a few different fabrics with different collars and sleeve lengths. It is a wonderful wardrobe-building shirt that has a nice feminine drape because of bust darts, subtle side-seam shaping, and the lovely way the placket forms a body-skimming front pleat.

Fabric Used:
Very fine and delicate Swiss cotton shirting


Pattern Alterations or any design changes made:

I needed to make all my usual alterations because I am petite...barely 5' tall. I raised the darts, shortened the torso a little bit but left it at Tunic length, and shortened the sleeves.

Would I sew it again?

I will indeed sew it again... I am especially looking forward to making this style with washed Silk Dupionni .

Conclusion:

This is a lovely modern and feminine shirt that is easy to sew, and is very figure-flattering. A nice bonus are the 3 videos about this style that the pattern designer made. They can be found on YouTube.com


YouTube Links For the SuperFantastic Shirt:

SuperFantastic Shirt, Part 1
SuperFantasticShirt, Part 2
SuperFantastic Shirt, Part 3


SEWING NOTES: Fabric from stash, Pro-Woven Fusible Interfacing and Buttons from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~

Men's Shirt with Straight Collar Stand

This is my newest original hand-drafted shirt design...

a classic dress shirt with some interesting design details.

This shirt, made from fine Swiss Cotton shirting features a bias cut front button placket and bias sleeve plackets.

Also, when you take a close look at the collar, you will see that its stand is not drafted with a curved front edge, rather it is straight...flush with the button placket.

Sewing Notes: Interfaced with ProWoven Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ Shirting Fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics

Sweet Sewing Indulgence....More for the divas!

Cute Corduroy For Bella...

I have been indulging in personal sewing between "basic blue shirt" client orders...and having such fun! This outfit for Bella is made from buttery soft berry print and striped cotton baby-corduroy, with a simple "lettuce" neck top of fine gauge sweater knit to complete the "look".

While not totally of my own design, the following patterns were "tweaked" to get the exact style-lines I wanted:

Ottobre Design Skirt- Issue 04/07, #14
Ottobre Design Top- Issue 04/08, #37
Abracadabra Pattern #47- Hooded Vest/Top

Sewing Notes: Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply used to stabilize the striped band of the hooded vest. Pro-Stretch Elastic from Fashion Sewing Supply used in the skirt waistband.

"Folded Band Collar" Shirt with Bias Detail

This may be the last short sleeve shirt that leaves my studio this summer!

An original design by Pamela Erny,
made from lusciously smooth Swiss Cotton.
The design features of this shirt include a "Folded Band Collar",
Front Bias Inset, and an Angle-Edge Pocket.

Sewing Notes: Imported Fabric, Interfaced with Pro-Tricot from Fashion Sewing Supply, Buttons from Fashion Sewing Supply.

PROFESSIONAL Sewing SUPPLIES

Professional Sewing Supplies are now available from the finest Fashion Workroom Suppliers at Fashion Sewing Supply ...Featuring Many Kinds of Premium Quality INTERFACING, PRO-STRETCH ELASTIC , The Collar Turning Tool, Professional seam Measuring Gauge, and More new products coming soon!

Please visit Fashion Sewing Supply for more information.

NOT ON OUR MAILING LIST YET ? Join the 1500+ sewing enthusiasts who are and Never Miss a SALE or New Product Announcement!
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We must purchase large quantities of the professional sewing supplies that we use at the ~Off The Cuff~ design studio including some that we have milled to our own specifications. Now we offer these same sewing supplies to you directly from our own stockroom in amounts that are appropriate for your individual home sewing needs.

Please visit Fashion Sewing Supply for more information.

Two Shirts...One Client

I heard from a favorite client of mine recently. He wanted 2 shirts made, and luckily I still had the fabric he wanted in stock. This very stylish man always has design details in mind, and was quite specific about what he wanted....but as always, left the "fine" details up to me.

My client wanted this blue shirt styled to be worn "tucked in". When drafting the pattern, I lengthened the shirt-tails so that when he moved his arms, the shirt would stay tucked. The drape of this royal blue Swiss cotton is extraordinary, so instead of drafting the sleeves "straight", I bowed (curved) them out slightly to produce a subtle soft drape when worn. Other design details include bias front button stand and bias sleeve plackets.


This Band Collar shirt is made from fabric that is more crisp than the blue shirt above. The characteristics of the fabric dictated my design choices. This shirt is cut with what I call "straight line" details. The sleeves are straight cut, rather than curved like the shirt above, and the sleeve cuffs are angled, as is the "spade" hem.

I am pleased with the way both shirts turned out.....and so is my client, who payed me promptly and added a tip! :)

Sewing Notes: ProWoven Fusible Interfacing used on the blue shirt, ProWeft Fusible Interfacing used on the cream shirt.


Textured Cotton Shirt with Cross-Stripe Detail

Click on photo to enlarge and see detail, click "back-button" to return to blog.

This shirt with banded sleeves, banded pocket, and "Cross-Stripe" details was commissioned by a client of mine. I sent a swatch of the fabric, an unusual mid-weight cotton, with an interesting textured stripe. As soon as he saw it, he called and asked me to design a shirt that showed-off this beautiful fabric.

Click on photo to enlarge and see detail, click "Back-Button" to return to blog.

In addition to the stripe details, this shirt has an interesting neckline that is a bit wider than usual, with a subtle "U" shape, rather than the usual round neckline curve. When worn, the collar sits slightly away from the neck, making it very comfortable in hot weather.

Pro-Weft interfacing was used to form and maintain the collar's soft shape and roll.

Batik "Spade Hem" Shirt

Click Photo to enlarge, Click Back-button to return to blog

Yet another shirt for my husband's wardrobe! This shirt with collar-on-stand features banded sleeves, a seamed bias pocket, and a "Spade Hem". A Spade Hem is sharply angled rather than the usual straight or curved hems found on most shirts.

The Collar and Sleeve Bands are interfaced with Pro-Weft Interfacing.

"HOW TO USE IT" ...Applying Interfacing!

You will find that using all of our  Pro-Series Interfacings is virtually foolproof when you follow the instructions!

That's because they are made to the exacting standards of professional quality 

exclusively for ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~.  
Of course, you should test any interfacing (including ours) on your Fashion Fabric to make sure it is appropriate for your garment before fusing the entire project !

Get the free PDF instruction sheet
~ How to Use Pro-Series Interfacing ~
HERE on the Tutorial Page
at www.FashionSewingSupply.com 

The Question: WHAT'S THE POINT?


The Answer: One of the most frustrating aspects of constructing a collar.

The white collar point shown here has a very narrow point. A collar with a such a sharp angle can be very challenging.

This is my "Shirtmaker's Formula" for achieving a crisp sharp point with no lumps or bumps:

A Good Pattern + Plenty of Practice + Good Interfacing = A Professional Collar every time!