My New Bundle of PRESSING Joy!

OH BOY!  I have a brand new really Large and Wonderful 

Tailor's Pressing Ham! 

Isn't she beautiful?

As you can see...this new Ham of mine is so much larger than the ones found at fabric and notions stores.

It is professionally hand-made by Sonia at The Stitch Nerd Shop  ...and very reasonably priced for it's size.  

Oh yes, you need one of these...you really do.

If you have never had a large pressing ham like this one...well...you don't know what you've been missing. The long length of curve gives you so much better control of pressing darts and princess seams...it makes a big difference.

I used to have one just like it during my tailoring apprenticeship, but my EX-husband threw it into the fireplace along with some of my other sewing tools when I announced I was leaving...but that's another story.  I did try to make one myself from sawdust begged from a lumber mill...but the thing exploded all over my sewing machine and studio when I tried to stuff and stitch it. I have been using a make-shift version of a large ham...but it's not at all the same as this new one.  And really, I suppose I could have tried the whole saw-dust thing again...but to me It just wasn't worth trying again when these are so well-made and reasonably priced.

I have absolutely NO affiliation with this store. I am just extremely impressed with the quality of this product. 

So impressed that I just ordered this Ham and Seam-roll Holder...the one I am using now needs to go to the same place that I just tossed my former very ancient (smaller) Ham...into the trash!

                                                                           

HAPPY DANCE--- FSS is back!

Our Official E-Commerce Website---> www.FahionSewingSupply.com

(for our United States Customers) 

is Back Online !

International Customers...to shop for our products, please click HERE

TUTORIAL--- Spot-Fusing vs. Block-Fusing Interfacing, a Modern Tailor's Method

Block Fusing is a method that many modern tailors and home-sewists use to apply interfacing to fashion fabric yardage before the pattern pieces are cut out. Have you ever struggled keeping the interfacing layer from slipping off-grain as you attempt to fuse it to your fabric yardage?  Next time, try this fast, easy, and accurate method that I learned from a Master Tailor, called "SPOT-FUSING"...And it can be done right on your cutting table!

^ STEP 1 ^

First, we need to prepare the surface of the table. The photo above shows my cutting table covered with 2 layers of HEAVY weight muslin (from Gorgeous Fabrics), and one layer of very thick wool (a heavy wool blanket will work as well..I just happen to have felted wool yardage that I use for this technique).  It is VERY important that these layers be smooth and free of wrinkles, so thoroughly smooth them out before proceeding.

 ^ STEP 2 ^

Next, lay out your fashion fabric on top of your "padded" table, WRONG side UP...making SURE it is smooth. What you see in the photo above is 3 yards of 60" wide silk/wool suiting fabric. The cut edge of the fabric is to the left, with the rest of the yardage hanging off the right side of my table. There is no need for weights to hold the fabric in place...the under-layer of wool holds it nicely.  But if you need to, weights can be placed along the top edge (in the above photo, the (top) cut edge is to the left).

^ STEP 3 ^

Now lay your Interfacing FUSIBLE Side DOWN on the (wrong side) of the fashion fabric, making sure it is smooth and on grain. I am using Charcoal-Black Pro-Weft Supreme Light Interfacing, one of my custom-milled professional grade interfacings available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply.

^ STEP 4 ^

This is where the Spot-Fusing happens :)   USING a thin PRESS CLOTH, and your steam iron set to a low-wool setting, start moving your iron over the interfacing with an UP and DOWN motion. DO NOT slide the iron, just move it all over the interfacing, pressing with steam for a few seconds, picking up the iron, moving it over an inch or so, and steam pressing again for a few seconds. I start pressing in the middle along one edge, and spot-press to one side until I reach the edge of the yardage, then begin again in the middle and work towards the other edge. I keep repeating this, working my way down and along the yardage, until all the yardage on my table has had the interfacing "tacked" (SPOT FUSED) down. Then I carefully pull the next section of fabric + unfused interfacing so that it covers the table, making sure that all is smooth and on-grain...then repeat the Spot-Fusing process again until all the fashion fabric yardage has been Spot-Fused.  I can Spot Fuse a few yards of 60" fabric in about 5-10 minutes.

Please note that the object here is to just tack the interfacing to the fabric...NOT to fuse it completely..that comes later.

 

^ STEP 5 ^

After removing the Muslin+Wool "padding" from your cutting surface, carefully lay your Spot-Fused fabric yardage right side up, lay out your pattern pieces and cut them out.

  ^ STEP 6 ^

 NOW is the time when we take our garment pieces to our "official" pressing surface (your Ironing Board or ClamShell Press), and "finish the fuse"...following the complete fusing instructions that come with your interfacing.

And this is why I Spot-Fuse before I Block-Fuse: Why bother spending time and effort completely fusing ALL the yardage, including the scraps that will be thrown in the trash after the pattern pieces are cut ?  By Spot-Fusing, I can ASSURE a perfect fuse and save time by fully pressing/fusing just the actual garment pieces...AFTER the interfacing has first been "tacked down" by the Spot-Fusing :)

The most Elegant of Interfacings...

~~Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE~~

Now available exclusively at FASHION SEWING SUPPLY ! 
Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing...is the the ultimate lower-temperature fusible interfacing for stable knits and sheer to lightweight woven fabrics.

This sheer matte interfacing truly is different. Due to its unique weave and fiber content, it has 10% controlled stretch in the cross-grain, and is stable in the lengthwise grain. Pro-Sheer Elegance is made from a combination of Polyester, and stable Rayon  and can be fused at "low-wool to 
wool" settings of your iron.  It does NOT shrink.

It is absolutely the most amazing interfacing
that we have ever experienced!
Pro-Sheer Elegance barely affects the drape of fabric,
yet will add enough support
for stable facings, buttonholes, etc.
It is sheer, matte, silky, 60" wide....absolutely fabulous!

Pro-SHEER ELEGANCE FUSIBLE,
90% Polyester, 10% Rayon-- 60" wide
COLORS-- White or Black
Please visit FASHION SEWING SUPPLY for more information.

BAN Boring BUTTONS !

There are so many interesting buttons available today. So why oh why do we see the same old boring, blah, ho-hum buttons on almost every shirt and blouse?

Economics is one answer. Large shirt manufacturers buy huge volumes of plain boring, ho-hum, blah buttons at an amazingly low cost, and therefore use them....over and over and over again.

Red buttons on a white dress shirt may not make the proper statement in the boardroom, but then again these days...who knows? The example photograph shows a mixed variety of buttons of different size and color against a background of glorious BLUE STRIPED Swiss Cotton shirting fabric.

Brown buttons with blue fabric? Why not? Pewter buttons? Fabulous! Feeling a little daring? Alternate white buttons with mottled gray/white buttons. Wooden buttons are such a wonderful unexpected detail.

Oh, you like white buttons? Well, so do I! So use white buttons but try using textured ones or buttons of a slightly larger than average size.

C'mon...take a walk on the creative side!

Sewing Notes: Buttons from Fashion Sewing Supply,
"Buttons by the Scoop"...check site for current offerings.

Sweet Sewing Indulgence....More for the divas!

Cute Corduroy For Bella...

I have been indulging in personal sewing between "basic blue shirt" client orders...and having such fun! This outfit for Bella is made from buttery soft berry print and striped cotton baby-corduroy, with a simple "lettuce" neck top of fine gauge sweater knit to complete the "look".

While not totally of my own design, the following patterns were "tweaked" to get the exact style-lines I wanted:

Ottobre Design Skirt- Issue 04/07, #14
Ottobre Design Top- Issue 04/08, #37
Abracadabra Pattern #47- Hooded Vest/Top

Sewing Notes: Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply used to stabilize the striped band of the hooded vest. Pro-Stretch Elastic from Fashion Sewing Supply used in the skirt waistband.

PROFESSIONAL Sewing SUPPLIES

Professional Sewing Supplies are now available from the finest Fashion Workroom Suppliers at Fashion Sewing Supply ...Featuring Many Kinds of Premium Quality INTERFACING, PRO-STRETCH ELASTIC , The Collar Turning Tool, Professional seam Measuring Gauge, and More new products coming soon!

Please visit Fashion Sewing Supply for more information.

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We must purchase large quantities of the professional sewing supplies that we use at the ~Off The Cuff~ design studio including some that we have milled to our own specifications. Now we offer these same sewing supplies to you directly from our own stockroom in amounts that are appropriate for your individual home sewing needs.

Please visit Fashion Sewing Supply for more information.

Textured Cotton Shirt with Cross-Stripe Detail

Click on photo to enlarge and see detail, click "back-button" to return to blog.

This shirt with banded sleeves, banded pocket, and "Cross-Stripe" details was commissioned by a client of mine. I sent a swatch of the fabric, an unusual mid-weight cotton, with an interesting textured stripe. As soon as he saw it, he called and asked me to design a shirt that showed-off this beautiful fabric.

Click on photo to enlarge and see detail, click "Back-Button" to return to blog.

In addition to the stripe details, this shirt has an interesting neckline that is a bit wider than usual, with a subtle "U" shape, rather than the usual round neckline curve. When worn, the collar sits slightly away from the neck, making it very comfortable in hot weather.

Pro-Weft interfacing was used to form and maintain the collar's soft shape and roll.

"HOW TO USE IT" ...Applying Interfacing!

You will find that using all of our  Pro-Series Interfacings is virtually foolproof when you follow the instructions!

That's because they are made to the exacting standards of professional quality 

exclusively for ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~.  
Of course, you should test any interfacing (including ours) on your Fashion Fabric to make sure it is appropriate for your garment before fusing the entire project !

Get the free PDF instruction sheet
~ How to Use Pro-Series Interfacing ~
HERE on the Tutorial Page
at www.FashionSewingSupply.com 

HOT PATTERNS Princess Shirt

This is my version of the Hot Patterns "Plain And Simple Princess Shirt", fashioned from buttery soft Ultra Suede. This garment is interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing.



While this shirt has basic princess style lines, the pattern is drafted in a sophisticated manner. Rather than the usual Convertible Collar/facing combo that is "supposed" to look like a lapel...this pattern is drafted with a classic tailored collar and lapel. This makes for a very smooth flat revers and a collar/lapel that rolls into perfect position and stays there!

~Click Photos To Enlarge~

I have made this style many times, in fabrics from denim, to silk, to the eggplant Ultra Suede pictured here. I highly recommend this pattern, and will continue to use it myself again and again because of the many style variations that are possible. Piped seams, slot seams, felled seams, bias cut, and contrasting color collar/lapels all represent interesting design opportunities!

"HOW TO USE IT" ...Elastic!

The following is just ONE of many ways Pro-Stretch Elastic can be used. It can be inserted into a casing. Also..it can be stitched through without losing stretch!


ELASTIC IN ACTION... "The Comfy Waistband" is a popular waistline treatment, that becomes even more comfortable when made with Pro-Stretch Elastic.


Start with a garment prepared for a cut-on elastic waistline, then cut a length of Pro-Stretch Elastic 1-2" smaller than the body's waist measurement. Stitch the ends of the elastic together, making a circle.

Divide both the elastic and waist-edge into 4th's. Pin the Pro-Stretch Elastic to the wrong side of waist matching the quarter marks, as shown.

Using a serger or zig-zag, stitch the elastic to the waist edge by stretching the elastic to meet the fabric (contrasting thread is used here for demonstration).

Turn the elastic to the inside (wrong side), and stitch along the Center Front, Center Back and Side Seams to complete the waistline (contrasting thread is shown here for demonstration).

When the garment is worn, the waistline appears to be faced because the elastic is not inserted into a casing. There will be some "ease", but this method gives the waist a much smoother appearance than if the edge was top-stitched.

These Jeans were made with Pro-Stretch Elastic using the "Comfy Waistband" application.

The Question: WHAT'S THE POINT?


The Answer: One of the most frustrating aspects of constructing a collar.

The white collar point shown here has a very narrow point. A collar with a such a sharp angle can be very challenging.

This is my "Shirtmaker's Formula" for achieving a crisp sharp point with no lumps or bumps:

A Good Pattern + Plenty of Practice + Good Interfacing = A Professional Collar every time!