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5/26/2008

Classic Sleeve Placket

Today I offer you a page from a vintage sewing book, "Dressmaking Made Easy", 1941, McCall Corporation....because it has been difficult for me to sew anything more complicated than children's garments recently because of particular medications I need to take.

This is the way I was trained to sew a sleeve placket (also known as a "gauntlet") by my mentor, an "old world" Tailor with exacting standards of excellence. I still use this method almost every time...a placket with 2 separate pieces, the overlap and underlap. By using 2 pieces, I find I have more control to fold and press most accurately. Additionally a 2-piece placket offers more design opportunities, such as using different fabrics for the over and underlap....even changing the top (peak) of the overlap...perhaps making it square, curved (rounded), and more.

By offering this method, I am not implying it is the only way to sew a sleeve placket. I know at least 4 other ways to accomplish this task...but this is the method that produces the best results
for me with most fabrics.

The measurements I choose to use most often: Underlap-- about 1.75 inches wide x 6.25 inches. Overlap-- about 2.50 inches wide x 8" to the top of the "peak". Measurements include 1/4 inch seam allowances and 1/4 inch "edge-folds". Make a sample to see if you like these measurements...if not...feel free to change the height and width.

IMPORTANT-- When you enlarge this diagram to see detail (by clicking on it), please take notice on the first step, that ALL edge-folds are pressed BEFORE the laps are stitched to the sleeve slit.

~CLICK ON DIAGRAM TO ENLARGE~


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10 Comments:

Anonymous Andalee said...

Thanks Pam. These instructions make sense to me. Oh yeah, got my Collar Clamp Tool from you last week and I love it.

8:47 AM  
Anonymous Mary Beth said...

Great to see this tutorial, Pam. Thanks for posting it! I believe it is easier than my modified DPC method and what my modifications were moving towards. Two pieces do give more control over the pressing!

9:35 AM  
Anonymous David said...

Thank-you for taking the time to share these little nuggets of your shirt-making expertise.

5:52 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank-you. Now I know why your plackets are so perfect.

Matthew

10:28 AM  
Anonymous jean said...

Pam, this is the way I prefer to do shirtsleeves, thanks for refreshing my memory, it is much more easy with two pieces of fabric than a single bulky piece with multiple folds.
Jean

1:37 PM  
Blogger jan said...

hi pam
this is the only way I know ,when you are a lot less tired and busy please tell me the other ways
thanks again
please take care of yourself,jane and the kitties x

5:03 PM  
Blogger Leah said...

Thanks for another wonderful tip/tutorial. Hope you are feeling better soon. Take care.

1:36 AM  
Blogger Summerset said...

Thank you for this! I just made a shirt for my husband from a packaged Burda and hated the way the cuff plackets were done. So much so that I ripped them out, dug out some other instructions and retro-fitted them.

3:34 PM  
Blogger Pocket Venus said...

Thanks for the tutorial. I'm making a vintage shirt for my husband, and one of the instruction sheets are missing - the one that tells you how to sew the cuff and sleeve placket.

6:39 PM  
Blogger Amanda said...

Hey thanks so much for this, I'm sewing a shirt with a very basic strip placket, that I wasn't going to settle for, so have been saved by your how to. I'll give it a go, it's my first ever cuff, not sure how I've managed to avoid them all these years lol. Cheers Amanda

9:17 PM  

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