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5/10/2008

How to Sew a Classic SHIRT COLLAR- 2) Attaching the collar-unit to the neck-edge.

Continuing with the construction of the shirt...it's time to attach the "Collar Unit" to the neck-edge.

PLEASE NOTE I AM DEMONSTRATING JUST ONE METHOD I UTILIZE TO SEW COLLARS TO SHIRTS. THERE ARE OTHER METHODS, THIS IS BUT ONE OF MANY.....



After gathering the fronts to fit the back shoulder (yoke)...the front, back, and yoke are completed and ready for the collar.




Match the center-back of the raw edge of the collar stand to the center-back of the garment's neck edge. Pin to hold.




Next, Match the center-front edges of the stand and blouse
EXACTLY.




Now, begin to stitch them together. Start at the edge and continue to stitch towards the center back, only for about ONE INCH. Then check to make sure the CF edges are still exactly even. It's much easier to remove one inch of stitching and re-align the edges now, rather than discover they are not even after the entire collar-band is stitched to the neckline!

Repeat on the other CF edge, then stitch the entire stand to the neckline.






Then tuck the seam allowances up and under the folded edge of the collar stand
.



Continue to tuck the seam allowances under the folded edge of the collar stand, just barely covering the stitching line. You may find that using a glue-stick is helpful to hold the folded edge in position.




Next at the machine, with the outside (right side) of the shirt facing up, begin to edge-stitch the band (collar stand) starting at center back as shown. Then continue to edge-stitch completely around the entire stand, ending where you began.



Now admire how nice your finished collar looks..inside and out!



( Interfaced with PRO-WOVEN Light Crisp FUSIBLE INTERFACING from www.Fashion Sewing Supply.com )

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13 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank-you for these tutorials. Maybe someday my shirts will look as nice as yours do.

8:17 AM  
Blogger Nneka said...

Thanks for the pictures! When I finally turn back to my classic white shirt, I'll stop back by your blog for tips.
-Nneka

1:34 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks so much Pam. I just might try that! Yvette

8:37 AM  
Blogger Meg said...

Wish I had known these tips before I worked on my blouse yesterday! Great advice and helpful photos. Thanks!

10:01 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

That's beautiful! Thank you so much for the tutorial!

5:21 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This is a great tutorial, thanks for sharing!!

5:22 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Question, need help :)
How do you match stripes on the sleeves of a shirt so that it matches the bodice????

1:30 PM  
Blogger Pam Erny said...

Matching stripes on sleeves to those on the bodice is directly influenced by the curve of the sleeve cap. The flatter the cap, the easier it is to match the stripes.

More often than not however, "close" is the best you can get.

To get "close", cut out your sleeve matching the front notch to the same stripe as the coordinating front notch of the armscye.

5:49 PM  
Blogger Karen said...

Thanks for this tutorial. I've made several men's shirts, all using the same pattern. I've read the instructions, I've read David Coffin's book, but after reading your collar tutorial here, I sewed the best collar I've ever done. And only had to sew it once. Thank you.

4:44 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Thank you so much for providing this tutorial on sewing a shirt collar. I have read a couple of books and few online articles and I still didn't get it. Then I stumbled upon your tutorial and was able to follow it easily step-by-step.

5:17 PM  
Blogger Jacki said...

omg, a GLUE STICK!! I stick everything on w/ a glue stick, I don't know WHY I didn't think of this! GENIUS! I was considering using narrow fusible hem tape web stuff!!

Thanks for sharing your brilliance!

10:32 PM  
Blogger Veronica said...

You have no idea of how helpful this tutorial is for me!!!!!!!!! i've try so many times to apply a collar neatly with no results at all!!! THANK YOU SOO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

Vero from Argentina

8:08 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

One of my doubts was how the collar should match the centro-front edges, and you just have the picture I was looking for, THANKS SO Much. But I still have the problem that when I close the centre front edged the collar overlapped :(, Any suggestion. Livonet from Norway.

1:59 AM  

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