TUTORIAL- Refine the Lines...Making a Shirt look "Custom" - REVISED

In this tutorial I am going to demonstrate how to refine the shape of a typical "straight-line" Yoke and Back of a commercial Shirt pattern. 

The differences between shirts made from most commercial sewing patterns and my custom-made shirts are often quite subtle, but deliver a big impact on how the shirts look when worn.  The shirts I draft by hand have yokes that lay smoothly along the upper back and shoulders with no bunching or ripples. The seam that joins the yoke to the back is contoured...allowing the fabric below to flow over the body gently, rather than just fall from it.

 ^Click any of the photos to enlarge^

Two of the many subtleties that I incorporate into my shirt designs are curved (shaped) yokes and backs. The pattern pieces shown above are examples of a  "pattern-in-progress" that I am hand-drafting for one of my clients. It is based on a draping session done to achieve a truly custom fit and will be fine-tuned  before the final pattern is drafted and the fabric cut. 

Of course, I cannot possibly teach you my custom shirt pattern "Drafting by Hand from Measurements" methods in a blog post.

But I can demonstrate how to refine the lines of a commercial pattern that has been drafted with a "straight-line" Yoke and a "straight-line" Back. The commercial pattern used to make these changes should be one that has regular ease, rather than a "fitted" style.

Let me add here that if you have a shirt pattern with a straight Yoke and Back that you like, that's fine. I am not saying that one draft is "better" than the other. This is just an example of how to do another draft...one that I just happen to prefer  :)

The first step in this process is to make a copy of the pattern that you want to change ( NOTE--it is best to make these changes to a pattern you have already sewn "out of the envelope" in the correct size and with which you are fairly satisfied, because I will not be addressing fitting issues.)  

You will need a copy of Yoke, the Back (without the Center-back pleat...fold it out of the way before making the copy), and the Sleeve...ALL OF THEM WITHOUT THEIR SEAM ALLOWANCES.  Please note that with the exception of the sleeve, working with 1/2-width pieces is easier when making these changes, and will take less time and paper than making full-width copies of the pattern pieces.

The brown paper pattern pieces that you see in this demonstration purposely do NOT have notch markings...because I want you to see how the SHAPES change without extraneous marks.

Let's begin with refining the YOKE.

As shown below, Mark a point that is approximately at the mid-point along the bottom of the yoke pattern piece. Make a second mark at the side that is a very scant 1/4-inch up above the corner. Then using a ruler with a gentle curve, draw a line connecting the marks.  If my written directions are not clear, the photo below should be.  Please remember this is not rocket science, I have just drawn a gently curved line on the Yoke piece. The key to this entire process is to make small  gentle changes to the existing pattern. The goal is to "refine" the pattern in a subtle way, not to make big design changes...we'll do that another time.

Next, cut along the curved line that was drawn, trimming off the excess, to finish making the new Curved Yoke--

Now we will refine the BACK Pattern Piece of the shirt to match its newly curved Yoke--

Lay the New Curved Yoke piece onto the the Shirt Back as shown below....the yoke will be "pointing" down, and center backs are matched.  You can see how the straight part of the Shirt-Back extends beyond the new curved Yoke. Now, transfer the curved shape of the Yoke onto the straight part of the back by tracing along the edge of the yoke with a pencil as shown.

After you trace the shape of the Curved Yoke onto the Shirt-back, it will look something like this--

Next, just as we did with the Yoke...trim off the excess (by cutting along the curved line that was drawn) to finish making the new Curved Back.


And there we have it!  Two pattern pieces that once were straight are now curved--

BUT WAIT!   There has been a total of a scant 1/2" removed from the pattern pieces at the armscye edge...making the Back armscye a little smaller. You may be thinking, "OMGosh! What about the SLEEVE ?"   Luckily it is as easy an adjustment as the others.


Here is how to change the SLEEVE pattern to fit the new Back-armscye--

Take the copy of the sleeve pattern that you prepared (I am showing you a shortened version for this demonstration), and mark the shoulder dot by comparing it to the original pattern.  Then draw a straight  line from the shoulder dot to the bottom (hem or cuff-edge), as shown below.

Then cut along the line, starting at the top (shoulder point) and ending about 3" from the bottom. You are not cutting it totally apart, just about 3/4 of the way down--

To finish, lap the Sleeve BACK over the Sleeve front...by a scant 1/2" as shown below,  and tape to hold.  (note- I have folded the Top edge of the Back ONLY so you can see how it was overlapped).

 Because we ONLY changed the BACK armsyce of the shirt Body, we ONLY need to change the BACK of the Sleeve. The front of the sleeve stays the same, and the shoulder point has NOT been moved.
Remember what I said about Small Gentle Changes?  If the Yoke and Back are changed by more than a scant 1/4" each, a total re-drafting avalanche will break loose! 

ALTERNATE METHOD--- IF YOU ARE RELUCTANT TO CHANGE THE SLEEVE TO MATCH the SLIGHTLY SMALLER (SHORTER)  BACK ARMSCYE--

Restore the length of the Back armscye by extending it out at the side seam by a scant 1/2" -- NO SLEEVE CHANGE NEEDED. 

So we have new refined patterns, now what? 

1. Add the seam allowances and notches to your pattern pieces-- Trace them again, adding the seam allowances. Then use the original pattern piece and transfer any notches/pattern markings including "place on fold" mark, and grain lines.
About the notches on the Sleeve--the only one I care about is the shoulder point, and I also make marks indicating the front and back of the sleeve. Why don't I care about the sleeve "ease dots"? Because I do not use them. I match the Shoulder point of the Yoke to the Shoulder Point of the sleeve, then distribute whatever ease there is as I stitch and approach the rounded sleeve cap.

2. Remember, the Center Back pleat was removed from the Back when the pattern copies were made. You may choose to leave it off, or add it back on by measuring the width of the pleat on the original pattern and remembering to add it when you are tracing the final pattern with seam allowances.

3. I know some of you are wondering about the FRONT, aren't you?  We have done nothing to the front at all...so we USUALLY do not have to make any changes to it. 

OK..I hear the gasps of shock and horror from the "by-the-book" pattern drafters out there.  Relax...remember, we just made very small very gentle changes.  There is a possibility  (depending on how the front armsyce of your commercial pattern has been drafted),  that the length of side seams of the shirt might not match exactly.  So, before you set the sleeve, fold the shirt at the shoulder point on the yoke, match the unsewn side seams from the hem edge up to the armscye and trim IF there is any excess.

You may be wondering, "Good Heavens, does Pam do this to every shirt pattern she uses?"  Umm..NO.  I do prefer curved yokes and curved backs, so I draft my original shirt designs by hand, and include those features as I render the draft.  When I use commercial patterns, I usually choose vintage patterns because many of them already have shaped yokes and backs. And yes there are times when I use a vintage or other pattern that has a "straight-line" yoke and back...when I want a more casual shirt silhouette.

 Over the years I have written countless sewing tutorials and also many about Drafting Shirt Patterns, including ways to improve the patterns that you already have.  Here are the links to my Drafting Tips and Tutorials below, for your convenience--
(THE COLOR OF THE LINKS below may be light, BUT THEY DO WORK...the Blogger editor is often uncooperative...sigh)

How to Add SEAM ALLOWANCES To Traced Patterns the EASY Way

 A Special SHIRT COLLAR and its PATTERN

How to Draft a Better Collar

Shirt Pattern Alteration for Full Hips and Abdomen 

Slim-cut Shirt Pattern Draft discussion, and Shirt Design Reference Book  

Changing Seam Allowances for Professional Felled Shirt Seams

Pam's Popular Pockets--Pattern Drafts

MUST SEE--- Bren's Mens Shirt Fitting Series!

A Big THANK YOU going out to Bren of  Brensan Studios Patterns 

for her wonderful 7-part Men's Shirt Fitting Series on her blog...click here   This is something I have been meaning to do for ages, but Bren's husband is much more cooperative than mine ;)  The series is chock full of professional information that is rarely shared...including the fine details of fitting a mens shirt muslin and then tranferring those changes to the pattern.  Please do not forget to leave her some comments...she deserves them! This series is a gem and must have taken her many hours to photograph and share.

And...she also tells us she is busy designing a series of new SHIRT PATTERNS for MEN --- YAY! 

I have no affiliation with Bren other than being an admiring colleague...but I do highly recommend the extensive line of Women's Shirt and other Patterns she has already designed :)  Look beyond the bright prints and cottons if that isn't your thing...the "bones" of her patterns are great...and can be mixed and matched... how fabulous!

A cute little dress...

I really needed a break from all the paperwork and website work that is covering my desk.  So I decided to make this sweet dress for my little friend Julianna, age 3.

I saw a pattern for a top exactly like this at That*Darn*Kat on Etsy, and first thought "That's so simple, I can draft it myself!"  Then I had second thoughts. I decided that it just isn't right for me to copy a designer's hard work, so I bought the pattern. The pattern is designed as a top, so I just lengthened it to make this dress.  I plan to make many more.  This pattern is very fast and easy to sew, with excellent step-by-step instructions and color photographs.

Back to copying patterns.  I have "borrowed" design details that I've seen on pattern photographs many times....never intending for my finished garment to look exactly like my inspiration.  This time I bought the pattern because I wanted to make a garment as close as possible to the original. I also wanted to support an Etsy seller.  And while I think it's OK to get inspiration from others' patterns, it is my opinion that it's not right to try to copy them exactly.  So if you like this dress, the pattern is available as a top at That*Darn*Kat.

Why I will NEVER sew this Shirt...

 I recently bought a  McCalls Mens Shirt Pattern that I will never sew.  While I hand-draft most of the shirt patterns I use, when a pattern company comes out with a new menswear pattern I usually buy it to see if it has anything interesting to yield.  However, if I had taken the time to look at the envelope of this one more closely, I would have put it back in the drawer !

At first glance, it looks like a perfectly "OK"  shirt pattern, doesn't it?

 

 Silly me...I didn't look closely enough at the front sketch or the back envelope pattern diagrams...which would have kept me from spending my money. Let's take a look at the pattern diagrams, below.

 I know you are already ahead of me here. Yes, you are correct, this shirt pattern does NOT have a back yoke!  The yokes you see in view D and E are merely shaped pieces appliqued onto the front and back. But there is no separate back yoke piece.

So What? 

Well...while omitting the back yoke can be called a design option, in my opinion it is not a good one.  A yoke on a man's shirt is quite important because it forms the "foundation" that allows a smooth shoulder line, along with supporting the front and shaping the back of the shirt.

A "back" yoke is also important because it is also is part of the "front".  It extends over the natural shoulder-line and that extension becomes part of the shirt front. This extension is important for the front of the shirt to hang straight, to keep the button plackets from "twisting", and to add a touch of support to the pocket so that it doesn't "droop".

In my opinion,  a back shirt yoke is vital for adding enough ease to lay smoothly over a man's shoulder blades and so that the shirt does not get "hung-up" at the waist or hips. The back can still look smooth, providing this ease without pleats or tucks. The ease is virtually invisible when the back is drafted with a curved upper edge, and the yoke drafted with a straight bottom edge. The cut fabric pieces are then carefully eased together when sewn. The patterns for a "smooth-but-shaped" back often look something like this, one of my original drafts.

 This is how you can still have a smooth back with no pleats or gathers, because the ease in incorporated into the curved edge of the upper back. When a menswear shirt is drafted without a back yoke, there is no way to add the necessary ease to glide over the shoulder muscle and shoulder blades, aside from making the back wider at the side seams. When ease is added that way, you often see bunching at the armscye and the upper sleeve..never a good thing.

As you can see, I am very opinionated about the importance of a shirt yoke. A shirt yoke needn't be very deep..I often draft them for a finished back depth of only 3", but this shirt-maker thinks every man's shirt needs one ! 

_____________________________
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Judy asked  my recommendation  for a casual Hawaiian-Style shirt pattern with a back yoke.
 
The best one that I have personal experience with is the 
Men's Islander Shirt Pattern. I've made it a few times, and really like the way it is drafted. Click here to see the one I made from Distressed Silk.
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Ann asked, "...if a pattern I have doesn't have this [a yoke], is it possible to just cut & draft one from the pattern or is it better to just get out my pattern drafting software and start fresh?"   

That depends on your level of drafting expertise.  You can merely cut the pattern to make a yoke (don't forget to add seam allowance!), and then expand the back (at CB) to add a pleat for ease (don't forget to add seam allowance !)...Or if you have more advanced pattern drafting experience/skills, you can slash and spread the back *slightly* to form a gentle curve to add ease to the lower back piece (I know I am a broken record, but...don't forget to add seam allowance :)  
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I sincerely regret that I cannot give complete fully detailed lessons on drafting a pattern within the limits of a blog post. Any pattern drafting book will have this information.
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3 Shirts in 3 Days

For me to sew 3 shirts in 3 days is not an unusual thing. Usually I can sew at least 3 shirts in a day, but with all the business duties on my agenda these days,  it's extraordinary that I had the time to squeeze these into my schedule at all!  However, DH Roger needed a few more shirts, the fabric was there, so now there are 3 new shirts in his closet...

^ CLICK PHOTO TO ENLARGE and see Details ^

ALL OF THESE SHIRTS ARE OF MY ORIGINAL DESIGN, 

THE PATTERNS DRAFTED BY HAND.

Shirt #1 is made from Plaid Cotton Shirting fabric, and features bias details and a "Cigar Pocket".

Shirt #2 is made from very average quality Cotton Oxford Cloth fabric, in a traditional design.

Shirt #3 is made from Cotton Chambray fabric, and features a right front "Prince" seam, and a buttoned "Cigar Pocket"

Click HERE for a FREE PATTERN DIAGRAM for the "Cigar Pocket" 

Sewing notes-- Fabrics from my shirt-making stash, PRO-WOVEN Fusible INTERFACING and BUTTONS from FASHION SEWING SUPPLY.

I recently had a question via my Facebook page asking about shirt patterns that I would recommend.

These are the pattern companies with good mens shirt patterns, in my opinion. I've tried them all in the past, and have gotten good results. Not as good as a custom draft, but compared to most commercial mens shirt patterns, the menswear patterns from these companies are quite good..again, in my opinion--

• Jalie
• Kwik Sew 
• Islander Sewing Systems

The styles and design features vary, but all the patterns are well drafted and each company provides good instructions.

How to Add Seam Allowances to Traced Patterns...the Easy Way

There has been some chat on various sewing lists and forums lately about tracing patterns and adding seam allowances to them, so here is a repeat of a tutorial I wrote several months ago that some of you may have missed and may find helpful...


For those of us who draft our own patterns, or trace them from the various pattern magazines, here's an easy way to add seam allowances--


It's very simple...and while not a new concept, I do it a bit differently.

The method is basic:
Add the seam allowance to the pattern by stitching around the pattern using an un-threaded needle the desired distance from the sewing line.

What's different about the way I do it?

Well...I have discovered that by using a large Wing Needle, and a very close stitch (.5-1), the excess pattern paper just peels off. No need to cut out the pattern!

Some more information--

I run the pattern through the machine...the traced stitching line of the pattern on the RIGHT....making sure the stitching line of the pattern is on the seam allowance I want. Thus, the needle holes are punched to the left of the stitching line, adding the seam allowance.

I can see through the pattern paper easily enough to be able to run the marked stitching line exactly on the 1/4", 3/8", or 5/8" inch line that is marked on the bed of my machine. If I can't see through the paper easily, I just use a post-it or piece of blue "painter's tape" along the desired depth of seam allowance I want to add.

After getting a few questions...here are some additional pictures that hopefully will make this process more clear:

1. Mark the desired seam allowance with painter's tape to make it visible under the pattern to which you are adding allowances--

2. The blue line on the paper (shown below) is the traced pattern line. Run it along the desired depth of seam allowance you want to add (see depth of seam allowance pic above), using a wing needle. This punches holes in the pattern paper, adding the seam allowance (the distance from the needle to the blue traced line is the added seam allowance)--

Japanese Shirt Pattern Journey...Fabric and Pattern Choices

Well...so far, so slow.   The good news is that a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern.  What I mean is that I am very familiar with shirt pattern "parts"...there isn't much I haven't seen after sewing hundreds of shirts I've either drafted from scratch or used patterns to make.  

The slow part is familiarizing myself with the methodology of this Japanese Shirtmaking book with no English translation. Specifically,  how these pattern pieces are drafted and how the seam allowance margins are allocated.  Because not all the seam allowances are the same width. This is a very good thing, and a sign of sophisticated drafting.  It saves time to have all the pieces fit together and not need trimming after the seams are sewn...it also saves fabric, always a good thing.  On the other hand, these patterns allocate allowances a bit differently than I do when I hand-draft a pattern. And since I want to give a fair review of these patterns, I'll cut the pieces their way...I am always open and eager to learn something new. So, This weekend I hope to get the pattern pieces traced and walked...but only after I've given my studio a good tidying up. 


For the first shirt using these patterns, I've chosen a fabric of good but not great quality. One that is good enough to get accurate results (no stretching or shrinking), but one that if it becomes a "give-away", I won't have regrets.   I try very hard to avoid "sewing regrets"  :) 

Exploring a Japanese ShirtMaking Book

 I've had this book for several months, and finally have the time to fully explore it and make a shirt from one of the many patterns that are included as separate traceable sheets.  Since I am not yet familiar with the fit of these patterns, my DH Roger will be my victim "fit model".   Of course, after I finish the shirt you will see it here along with a full review of this book.
 
I may decide to do a step-by step series of blog posts, or at least a few posts about the making of the shirt during the construction process....so stay tuned.
 
In the meantime, here is the book description from the seller, an Ebay Merchant I recommend,
SIMPLY PRETTY JAPANESE BOOKS.
Paperback: 79 pages
Publisher: Bunka Shuppan Kyoku (August 2006)
Language: Japanese
Book Weight: 425 Grams
19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men's Shirts for 4 Sizes.
Contents:

The book introduces 19 styles of variety kinds of men's shirts

Total: 19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men's Shirts for 4 Sizes.Paperback: 79 pages
Size Reference:
The book come with the full-scaled patterns for 4 Sizes: 
SMALL (Nude): Chest 90 cm, Waist 78cm, Height 155-165 CM.
MEDIUM (Nude): Chest 92 cm, Waist 80cm, Height 165-175 CM.
LARGE (Nude): Chest 94 cm, Waist 84cm, Height 175-185 CM.
EXTRA LARGE (Nude): Chest 98 cm, Waist 86cm, Height 185-195 CM.
 
This book certainly seems to have it all, including several collar and cuff styles..and a whole lot more!  Here are a couple of pics of the inside pages....

~ Click photos to enlarge, then click browser "back" button to return to this page ~

 

 

A Special Shirt Collar...and its Pattern

Many of my clients remark that the collars of the shirts I design are very comfortable and that they don't have to fuss with them. That's because I specifically design shirt collars to follow the natural curves of the neck and shoulder.

Take a close look at the collar on the denim shirt I am currently making, shown below.  Most (if not all) commercial shirt patterns have collars with top edges that are just straight across or that have one long slight curve.  However, as you can see...I have drafted my collar pattern with curves that follow the natural shape of the body.  SEWING NOTE-This collar has been interfaced with Pro-Weft Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~.

Here is the pattern draft, first shown as a half-pattern, 

then again below as the full draft.

~ Click on photos to enlarge, click browser "Back" button to return to this page ~

Note that the bottom edge of each pattern shown is the neck edge, and that the pattern has been drafted with 3/8" seam allowances. It has been placed on a 1-inch square grid so that you can see the scale.  You are welcome to copy the pattern...however if you use my draft and post a photo of a shirt made with it, please link back to this post, and/or reference it. Thank-you...and I hope that you enjoy using this draft !

I've been asked about the collar stand (band) pattern that I usually use with the collar draft I showed above. Almost any stand can be used with this collar, as long as you draft the collar wide enough to cover the width of the stand (band).

So, here it is...you will notice it is fairly standard. 

It really is the refined shape of the collar (shown above) that allows it to fall so elegantly.

~ Click on photos to enlarge, click browser "Back" button to return to this page ~

Brensan Patterns "Sew Simple" Shirt

I needed a fast-to-make "Camp Shirt" pattern...now I have one!

The line drawing does not show the optional front and back darts.

I continue to be impressed by Brensan Studios patterns. While this draft is very basic, it is very well executed with optional front and back "fish-eye" darts and nice side-seam shaping. Simple yes...very simple...but well suited to adding your own details. For instance, the sleeves just beg for cuffs.

This version of the "Sew Simple" blouse was my test garment for this style. I'll be making it again in nicer fabric...this fabric was a cheap find (emphasis on the cheap)...but this shirt will be fine for everyday wear.
It fits exceptionally well.

You'll notice that the sleeves seem quite wide. That's because the pattern is drafted for long sleeves, and I decided to make short sleeves after the long ones were sewn.

Hah! You should have seen me in this fabric with long sleeves...I looked like a little tree..one that needed pruning, fast! So in order to narrow the newly hacked-off sleeves, I "pinched" out an inch and formed pleats. Then I secured them with slightly larger sized M-O-P buttons than those used on the shirt front. On future garments, I'll narrow the sleeve and raise the cap slightly...easy pattern alterations.

SEWING NOTES: In my opinion, when using cotton fabric for a style like this you need to affect the hand of the fabric as little as possible. I used PRO-SHEER ELEGANCE Fusible Interfacing from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~ because it is so exceptionally silky and soft.
Fabric is from the close-out section at JoAnn Fabrics, Mother-of-Pearl Buttons are from my stash.

Brensan Patterns and the "Barcelona Blouse"

This is my first experience with Brensan Studio Patterns, and my first impression is a very good one! While these patterns seem marketed to the "wearable art /quilting cotton" arena, I think many of the silhouettes will work quite well when made from classic fashion fabrics.

Below is a photo of the Barcelona Blouse Pattern Front and Back. Look past the rather garish red fabric, and notice the classic Princess blouse silhouette, with it's wing collar and split cuffs.

I chose to make mine from a white medium weight jacquard woven cotton/lycra blend fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics. While the garment looks a bit clumsy on my ancient dress form, the fit on me is perfect. I can see making a couple more of this style, utilizing the design options given in the pattern instruction sheets...a contrast bias cut front band and contrast collar. Silk Dupionni would work with this style, and perhaps I'll make another with short sleeves in Linen.

Please note that you are not seeing puckers...well you are, LOL, but they are the jacquard "highs and lows" of the fabric...not my sewing....really.

SEWING NOTES: Pattern Alterations- very few. I shortened the shoulders by 1/2" and the sleeves by 3/4". Shirt Collar and Cuffs interfaced with Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing, the back panel and fronts were faced with Pro-Woven Light Standard Sew-in Interfacing, both from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~. Buttons from ~Fashion Sewing Supply~.
Fashion fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Shirt Pattern Alteration for Full Hips and Prominent Abdomen

Here are 2 simple pattern alterations that can be made to add extra room for a Prominent Abdomen (tummy) and/or Hips

After slashing and spreading the pattern the necessary amount, "true" the lines of the pattern....as shown by the black lines.
These changes add ease just where it is needed, without having to move up to the next larger full pattern size.

Popular Pockets...Free Patterns for you!

Some of my most popular shirts have featured my "Cigar Pocket"
and the "Angle Edge Pocket".

I get many questions about them, so while I had these pocket patterns out on the cutting table, I snapped this pic to share them with you. As you can see below, the dimensions are shown on a grid. The pocket hems are meant to have a double turn of 1", and are drafted with a 3/8" seam allowance. On the "Cigar Pocket", a one-inch slot is made by topstitching the pocket on the straight side, after the pocket is sewn to the shirt.

(CLICK ON PHOTO TO ENLARGE)

Hot Patterns Collar/Lapel Tutorial, Part 1

Many of my readers have asked me to explain how the collar and lapel on many HotPatterns styles are sewn. So Let's start with the collar. As you can see in the photo, this collar may be shaped differently than other collars you have sewn before. To make it more clear, I have marked the stitching lines on the collar, so you can see which edges must be sewn before the collar can be applied to the shirt.


After the collar is stitched, turned and pressed, mark the match points with a dot on the lower corners of the collar.

CLICK HERE FOR PART 2 OF THIS TUTORIAL

Hot Patterns Collar/Lapel Tutorial, Part 2

After you sew the garment front and back together, you may wish to reinforce the inside corner with a small piece of interfacing as shown. Whether you choose to reinforce this area or not, do remember to mark the matching point with a dot. I have also marked the stitching lines on either side of the dot, so you can see where you will be stitching next.

Pin the collar to neck edge, matching collar to the shirt at center back and shoulders, taking special care to match those dots you marked on both the collar and the shirt.

Stitch the collar to the shirt, from center back to the dot. I have marked this stitching line with a blue pencil so it can be easily seen in the photo. Stop stitching when you reach the dot, then clip to the dot through the SHIRT ONLY.

Spread the shirt to meet the remaining edge of the collar, and stitch. Again, I have marked the stitching with a blue pencil so you can see it clearly in the photo.

This is how the collar will look as viewed from the right side. I have marked the corner area stitching in pink pencil so it can be more easly seen in the photo.

The next step is applying the facing. Do this as you always do, sandwiching the collar between the shirt and the facing, right sides together. When you get to the inside corner of the FACING, you will need to clip into the corner of the FACING ONLY, then spread it to meet the remaining neck edge...just like you did with the inside corner of the shirt. After turning and pressing, the collar/lapel will look like the following photo (on the inside/wrong side of the garment).

This photo shows what the applied collar and facing will look like from the right side.

Finish the facing and clean finish the neck edge of the collar as desired, then turn back your completed collar/lapel and admire your work!

Islander Men's Classic Sport Shirt

Another fabulous shirt design from Janet Pray of Islander Sewing Systems, this style, the Men's Classic Sport Shirt, features chest pockets hidden cleverly within the yoke seams. I fashioned this shirt from fine Italian cotton shirting for a client who admired the pattern's illustration.


Like all of Islander's patterns, The Classic Sport Shirt, goes together quickly and easily because of its superior draft. Seam allowances are adjusted so that the sewist can progress from step to step without stopping to trim and grade. The famous Islander "burrito" technique is included in the pattern instructions....a technique every sewist should learn in order to consistently produce a professional collar unit without the use of pins or basting.

I highly recommend this pattern!